From Microsoft Edge;
For the 3.5L EcoBoost V6, the first-generation model (2015–2016) also used only direct injection. The second-generation 3.5L (2017–2018) introduced dual injection to address similar carbon buildup problems, with port injection used primarily at idle and low speeds, and...
I was going to do one of those block-offs on my Excursion but luckily found the pinhole leak way in the back in the line so I got a repair kit on ebay for peanuts, and it held for the 10 years in owned it.
I doubt if you will ever need the catch can on the eco 3.5 motor, and I think the '17 has better turbos now. The main problem was the tubes on them leaking.
I thought the 17 was the year they went to port and direct injection both so no problem with the buildup plus octane shouldn't affect anything either, plus I thought that catch can thing was for 5.4's and older models and was corrected on the eco motors. It sounds like you are worried about nothing.
Those block offs are ok until you sell the car, and you will have to evacuate the system with a special vacuum pump before refilling it, and you should get a set of gauges to get the high and low pressures right. By the time you are done I think you would be better off putting some dye in it and...
Nah, the tensioner won't affect your pressure, I saw it all on my oil gauge at 160k. Great pressure even with a blown out 0-ring. Everyone should put a real gauge on the 5.4s though, there is room right above the gas pedal. I agree that you don't want it to get low because you can ruin your cams...
That's why I put a gauge in mine (right above the gas pedal) but very little oil pressure is lost through a tensioner since it takes all night to leak down the tiny chamber and it's replenished in seconds. It's the cam phasers you have to worry about. Not true that Ford went to the idiot light...
The stealer. Shop around. 99% of the work is r and r-ing it. The line comes out with it. I would do it myself. Parts are only the o-ring and some other little parts. Instructions are on U-tube. You could replace the whole thing for a few hundred bucks. Why pay $3,000 + - ?
Some people let it go for years with no problem. If the o-ring in the tensioner just has a little piece broken out it could stay like that. Often, they just rattle a second or two in the morning after they had all night to leak down, and then good the rest of the day.
It's almost always one tensioner and they have an o-ring not a gasket. They don't vibrate and the noise is the chain rattling against the guides until the tensioner fills with oil and pushes on the chain. They rattle cold or warm and a lot of people live with it for a long time but if the guides...
Calling it rot shows me that you have no sense of innovation when it comes to simple repairs. You should have chromed that thing were you were at it............lol. I find mind boggling that you went to that much trouble on a simple fix.
That won't hurt anything being engaged but the front diff and driveshaft are spinning and causing a slight drop in mpg, plus a little wear on everything up there. Some people leave them engaged (for some reason) but it's a bad idea.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.