You nailed it!!! Was just about to explain that same thing. Yes, if you reverse them the “humps” get caught up inside the caliper, and will not allow for smooth operation.
The “hump” pad should be mounted on the inboard side with the holes in the top of the caliper. Doing the opposite will...
Had this happen to a coworkers F150. Troubleshot it down to the interior dome light not shutting due to a bad rear driver door switch. The vehicle saw the door as never having been shut; though it was. Pretty easy fix once you narrow it down to that component. If that’s your problem. Could been...
Had a corrosion issue the the roof of my 2016. It occurred at the edge of the roof rack bolt mounting point.
Discovered it when I decided to pull my roof rack for a smooth/ shaved look. Replaced the hardware with shorter bolts for a smooth finish. Used teflon tape and thin rubber gasket for a...
Had a 2016 Expedition EL that suffered from this poor design. As a retired Army veteran I’ve got access to auto craft shops. Performed the task there on a lift.
Wasn’t super hard… but, prep is very important. By prep I mean getting everything out of the way. Especially either heating and/ or...
This happened to me on my old ‘04 Expedition sometime ago. Was draining oil from pan… when I attempted to reinstall the drain plug it got hand tight. Then, about a 1/16th of a turn it would pop loose again.
Feared I’d done the worst; stripped the oil pan threads. Turned out it was that pan plug...
So, I had a problem in my 2016 EL where the tail lights would blow the bulbs; on both sides. Replaced them twice, and got the same thing within minutes of replacing.
Took it to the dealer. They said they fixed it. Great!!! Ran good for about a week. Then, no tail lights. Checked the fuse to...
Also, I would check the other doors as well. Remember a coworker had a similar issue; his interior lights would not cutoff until they hit that “I’ve been on way to long” limit.
I ended up finding the rear driver door switch to be bad.
Exactly… it can only turn so far once the tabs on the lock ring contact the stop tabs on the mount ring. Unless you use a really huge BFH (Big Freakin’ Hammer).
Check your vacuum hoses. Have run across a few times where either a line was disconnected and/ or dry rotted… this caused excess air flow into the system. With the extra air available the vehicle will add more fuel to avoid a rich mixture to be burned. Hence, bad fuel numbers.
The last vehicle...
Oh… try a different phone. Both Android and Apple (I’d try Apple for the heck of it) to verify it’s the system, and not the phone. If it still lags try a new USB port… they’re not that expensive.
Looking at the schematics it’s obvious the power source comes from the BCM to the APIM, then the USB port.
I actually had a 2016 Expedition that did not support Apple CarPlay. After doing some research I swapped out the OEM USB for one listed as fitting a 2018 Ford Focus if I remember...
Did the same mod on my 2016 EL to fit F-150 wheels as well. There will be approximately 1/2 to 1 inch of axle thread protruding through the center of the wheel. Thus, preventing you from installing the center cap. So, breakout some protective eyewear, and a pneumatic cut-off wheel. Good luck.
I was leaning towards the battery also. These new electronics get super finicky when the battery isn’t doing EXACTLY what it’s supposed to do. Glad it’s figured out.
Had the issues with OEM Ford brakes on both my 2004 and 2016 Expeditions. On the ‘16 it would suffer from warped front rotors. Also, the rotors would suffer from small cracks in various places on the surface. Swapped to aftermarket and had no problems. Ended up going with AutoZone Duralast Gold...
Became interested in using the lines after seeing them on my coworker’s 2016 F-250. So, on my 2016 EL I did not have the lines. Nor could I find an option that would turn them on. Assumed it wasn’t available on my vehicle.
Correct… Canadian models have them. Has 2016 Expedition that had them. Noticed that others did not. Thought it was weird. THEN, came across some info stating Canadian models had them. Was mine from there? Idk But, it certainly did have DRL’s because the extended operation on my aftermarket...
You’ve got two actuators… blend and mode. Blend gives you temperature variations. While mode directs where the air is blown.
Also, there is a door in the fan/ blower housing. You’ll have to pull the blower motor to get access. What happens is the apparatus that moves the flap breaks off...
According to Ford Parts online it’s a terminal for the airbag/ something to do with the airbag; Airbag Terminal. Look down in the Product Details section.
My first guess would be to check the fuel system. Old gas starts to coagulate (think that’s the right word) and causes clogs. Fuels lines, injectors, and fuel filters can fall victim. Check fuel pressure up front. If all good there’s something else going on. If not, I’d inspect fuel system...
Not sure about the ziptie method as a fix… Just wanted to show you the most likely culprit more clearly. That switch becomes opened/ closed depending on shifter position. Don’t want it always closed.
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