Temperature Blend Door Actuators
The DATC system utilizes two temperature blend door actuators to control two separate temperature blend doors that independently vary the LH and RH side temperature settings, as desired. The temperature blend door actuators:
- are located on the plenum...
Do you have an aftermarket switch in the fuel system you're referring to?
I am aware of the inertia fuel shutoff switch that's in a little cubby in the left rear trim panel. A lot of vehicles have these now days, if not all, though some are easier to reach than others. It's supposed to shut...
Sounds like a misfire to me. For an intermittent misfire my experience on these engines leads me to first suspect a coolant leak dripping into the coil/spark plug recess. Besides it's easy to check and free. For instance the heater valve is a fair common thing to leak. Mine only leaked...
If you find connectors broken or faulty as Dustin Gebhardt suggested you can replace the connector without cutting and soldering. I did the cut, solder and heat shrink a couple times, then found tools that allow you to just pop the wires out of the connector and replace it. So much easier and...
There's multiple actuators up front all on the passenger side of the dash. Below is some info for the DATC/EATC system that might help.
BTW, did you check for hot coolant hoses on both sides of the heater valve? The heater valve should be open without vacuum, so coolant "should" flow through...
My 2004 Expedition with 5.4L developed a light engine speed vibration about a week ago. It's primarily noticeable in gear. Anyway, today I decided to check the pulleys and accessories. I didn't actually finish checking them, I checked the alternator and the 3 idler pulleys. Having found that...
I can't offer much help as I have not studied the Navigator much since I purchased my Expedition and was comparing the Exp and Navi. The fenders, headlights and grille are not the same. The frames are the same. I would bolt the new bumper on, welding it would likely be regretted I suspect.
I...
All I can think of is either the intake isn't sealing correctly or, this is a long shot, is the lower o-ring on the #1 injector good? My injector o-rings were pretty hard when I replaced them earlier this year.
I've got no help, but it seems like you're on a good path for troubleshooting and I'm interested in the outcome.
The new format keeps confusing me. I realized after I replied to this it might be really old. Turns out it is old.
Well on the 5.4L engine it's pretty easy to swap. It just pushes into the valve cover, but removing the spring clip for the coolant hoses can be slightly tricky. You might consider changing the mounting grommet as well, which I had to get from the local dealer.
On the 4.6L I've never done it...
Nah, I used the trash below from Orion Motor Tools. At least the crank alignment tool and the valve spring compressor were trash. The cam holding fixtures, but they ended up working fine. I won't buy these cheap tools again. I know better, but I didn't listen to myself, again. In this case...
If the coolant hoses are original as mine were this is a great time to replace them.
Honestly the only way to know about the main and rod bearings is to judge the wear you see on the heads and timing chain parts. From that decide if you want to pull a cap from the crank to check. If I was...
I used a 3D printed front crankshaft seal installer, which was basically just a really nice plastic cup. It did not support using a bolt or have any provision for setting the depth. I think a large socket or section of PVC pipe that is cut square would work just as well. Pay attention to...
You should not need to cut any hoses to remove the valve for inspection or replacement. It's just a butterfly valve so you pull the hose off 1 side and move it back and forth to figure out if the valve works.
You can also unhook the vacuum hose, plug the hose, from the valve so it remains...
Sure it absolutely could be the heater valve and it's easy to check. It could be 1 of multiple issues. Do you have air flow from the vents and the air is just not warmed?
Checking the heater valve. Without vacuum the valve is designed to default to the open position allowing warm/hot coolant...
Cloth vs leather and Bilstein vs Rancho adjustable. Both are very much a personal opinion/decision.
I have always preferred cloth seats, but with my age and failing body leather makes it easier to get in and out. I also hate to say that I never had cloth last 20yrs, but my 2004 Expedition...
If the struts, control arms and ball joints are tight there's a good chance it's the sway bar links. It took me a couple months to figure that out. There seemed to be no play when testing them. When I took them loose it was blatantly obvious they were shot.
You either have air springs or steel coil springs from the factory. Being an XLT it's likely coil springs. If you had air springs you'd also hear a compressor running for 2-5 minutes at every single start, that drove me nuts and was one factor i my choice to remove the air suspension.
My vote...
Following the blend door actuator replacement have you verified it's closing when commanded to at the DATC?
Does the A/C compressor engage when A/C is selected? I realize you may not feel cool air inside, but if the compressor doesn't engage you may have a an issue with the DATC module...
So I don't know if the roll over valve is replaceable. I never checked when I had mine out. It can be replaced on some Chevy tanks that I know.
I also doubt that's the issue. I mean if you remove valve the fuel cap is seal is gonna hold the pressure anyway and it likely is now. I don't...
I would say yes you have a computer issue. I believe you're gonna need a scanner that can at least read the UBP bus and SCP bus to troubleshoot this most likely. Scanners that can do this cost several hundred dollars and up. Mine was $1100 I think, bought 6yrs ago, but it has paid for itself...
Pretty common failure around here. Check the fuse and verify the relay in installed correctly. It can be installed backwards. Well it's unlikely, but possible the replacement relay is faulty. Could have burned through the run on the board as well. I'm not sure off hand what else to check...
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