I did a quick search before posting this and only found one thread that was related but it didn't fully answer my questions.
I have a 97 xlt w/o air ride and I'm thinking about doing a total suspension rebuild (front and rear) including bushings, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, etc. I've read...
Does your '99 radio/head unit have an actual button that says CD on it or an option to switch to the CD input? If so, and the connectors match, I don't see why it wouldn't work. On the 97 & 98 models, we actually had a CD button on the head unit.
However, I wouldn't pay too much for the unit...
Nah, I bought a set of 8 off ebay from Global Automotive for around or under $100...I don't remember exactly but its the most cost effective way to go.
Start here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/929226-how-to-troubleshoot-and-fix-f150-4x4-1997-2003-a.html
If not, it could be the transfer case motor - common thing to go out.
Maybe the GEM - if your windshield leaks water and you have other funny electrical problems
Lastly, and...
Just open your driver's side door and look at the tag. It will list the Axle code on there and will let you know what gear ratio you have and whether or not it is limited slip. As an EB, more than likely it is LS in the rear in a 9.75" housing but you won't know the ratio until you get the tag code.
Really? Is it a heat issue with the factory ground cable after upgrading the sound system?
Just a thought: Wouldn't grounding to a bolt that secures the back seats to the floor be acceptable as well?
As long as the insert is an actual machine insert and not a helicoil you'll be good to go. If you decide to change the plugs yourself be sure to post here or PM me. I've done the job twice and know the difficult areas and solutions to doing the job.
And realistically I'd be glad you have the...
I disagree somewhat. A proper tune-up will include new plugs and coils. And with new coils, the boots and springs should be replaced with new as well. However, you can get away with just changing the plugs.
Did you change them yourself or have a shop do the work? If so I'd quit driving the...
The only way you are going to know is if you can re-thread the spark plug back in the head or inspect the threads yourself. Inspecting them by sight is a bit challenging because you will need to use a mirror and a bright light. Even then you may not be able to see the threads well.
Another...
Fairly straight forward process:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/377317/Expedition
http://www.fordf150.net/howto/gauges.php
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=64457
The most difficult process in my opinion is removing the headlight switch. Other than that it's removing bolts and being...
I have Infinity Reference speakers with the swiveling tweeters in the front and back doors and have been very pleased and quite content with the sound quality and available bass. Any aftermarket speakers will be an upgrade to the factory 6x8s - especially when driven with an aftermarket headunit...
That's all in a used car. I found and old french fry and crumbles of food around the driver's seat after I bought mine. It might be worth your time to remove the center console and get access to the carpet underneath and around it. There's a guide on this forum on how to remove it (less than 10...
It looks good. As far as the center console CD player goes, in my honest opinion you would be better off installing an aftermarket head unit in the dash.
I had the factory 6 disc CD changer in the console and, because the way its mounted in the console, it gets a lot of vibration and will cause...
Not sure on how many more watts I'm planning on running. Automotive electronics/electrical systems is what I have difficulty in so...
I talked with an electrical engineer tonight who looked over a writeup I found online, complete with diagrams, who reviewed everything while I asked questions...
I've completed a search here with no results so I'm going to ask:
Have any of you rewired the headlights to draw power directly from the battery instead of the headlight switch? Reason I ask is that 1) on page 49 of the LMC Truck catalog...
Here's my recommendation: First, think about the issue at hand. Wait till your "cooled off" from the problem and thinking with a cool head. Many obvious things I have missed from being PO'd while wrenching away. Then, ask yourself whether you think the pump is the problem or the steering rack...
If they aren't Motorcraft, I'd honestly recommend changing all of them and playing it safe. I remember reading about a Super Duty owner with the V-10 and he had two blow-outs with plugs. Both were Champion plugs. If a garage did the job, I'm real curious to see if they even touched the back...
I'm actually curious as to your plug spitting out and have some questions:
Did you do a recent plug change or did someone else? If so, how many miles since the change and what did you torque the plugs to?
What brand plugs - stock Motorcraft or other?
I've read most of what there is to...
I will keep that in mind. Appreciate the offer.
Walnuts, just read through the CD install thread. Looks real good and I'm going to save the link for future reference. Off sub, I wish I would have known you a bit better a few weeks ago as I have a degree in history with my focus in education...
Thanks for the responses and help with running the wire. That grommet location couldn't be any better! (A lot easier than trying to go through the fender.) I'm going to try and have things hooked up by the weekend.
I will keep you all posted as I continue to think out my design and hopefully...
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