“Thunder” 1998 Expedition Build Thread

[MISTERgadget]

My understanding is that the headers will work but the midpipes won't, the transfer case is in the way. It should be easily adaptable with a couple of bends though, it's not much different. IIRC, Pacesetter sells headers and midpipes that work with the 4x4, although they are not stainless like ARH and the midpipe has a Y pipe into a single exhaust.

 

[reece146]

I'll have to crawl under and have a look when I get a chance. The truck is still on the jack stands from the radiator support replacement I'm doing so it's just a matter of going out and looking.

I could live with a single out but would rather fab my own in stainless. Stainless is so nice to weld it makes it a fun project. Maybe this winter... I pulled the fenders off my truck for the work I'm currently doing and the exhaust manifolds are all exposed asking to be replaced... must resist - no time currently and I miss driving my truck.

I was researching headers for these trucks a number of months ago but didn't see anything in the way of a long tube header. I didn't think to look at Lightning parts - only plain F150. This thread has kind of made my day.

Btw, you went 1-3/4 instead of 1-7/8 primaries? Was there a specific reason for that? NA vs SC plans or something else? I haven't done any math on this re: flow vs displ vs rpm yet so don't know what is appropriate. My truck is just going to be "simple" bolt-ons so not looking for crazy power. Just looking to tow the trailers a little more effortlessly and have fun with the truck.

Are the O2 sensors for the emissions equipment further downstream than stock? Expecting any issues? I've heard some vehicles are really sensitive to heat loss on the O2s but I have no data on these engines.

Thanks!

 

[MISTERgadget]

I'll have to crawl under and have a look when I get a chance. The truck is still on the jack stands from the radiator support replacement I'm doing so it's just a matter of going out and looking.

I could live with a single out but would rather fab my own in stainless. Stainless is so nice to weld it makes it a fun project. Maybe this winter... I pulled the fenders off my truck for the work I'm currently doing and the exhaust manifolds are all exposed asking to be replaced... must resist - no time currently and I miss driving my truck.

I was researching headers for these trucks a number of months ago but didn't see anything in the way of a long tube header. I didn't think to look at Lightning parts - only plain F150. This thread has kind of made my day.

Btw, you went 1-3/4 instead of 1-7/8 primaries? Was there a specific reason for that? NA vs SC plans or something else? I haven't done any math on this re: flow vs displ vs rpm yet so don't know what is appropriate. My truck is just going to be "simple" bolt-ons so not looking for crazy power. Just looking to tow the trailers a little more effortlessly and have fun with the truck.

Are the O2 sensors for the emissions equipment further downstream than stock? Expecting any issues? I've heard some vehicles are really sensitive to heat loss on the O2s but I have no data on these engines.

Thanks!

The 1-3/4" headers are fine for 700+ rwhp so I didn't see myself needing a larger primary. In fact, most of the Lightning headers out there are 1-5/8" primaries, so the 1-3/4" is plenty really. I have a Lightning as well, that truck made 470 rwhp on 1-5/8" primaries and dual 2.5" exhaust, and now with my turbo setup on the Lightning it makes 1040rwhp with 1.75" primaries, so it's not really a bottleneck, and gives you a little more space during the install and around the ABS and wiring. My goal for this truck is 500rwhp, so these should be plenty.

I haven't run into any issues with the o2s, although there's not too many miles on it just yet, never had an issue with my Lightning or mustangs running longtubes and the rear o2's either, I think these ecu's just aren't that sensitive to it.

Most tuners will adjust slightly for the primary o2s being further from the cylinder heads, but the rear o2s aren't picky at all.

 

[MISTERgadget]

Status update on where things stand today

• Heads are at performance CNC for porting, oversize valves, and assembly with upgraded springs and retainers

• Engine block is at the machine shop for line honing and boring with a deck plate

• Pistons, rods, crank, oil pump w/billet gears, ARP hardware and a few other parts are all with the engine builder, waiting on the heads and block to return

In the meantime, I cleaned up the supercharger, intercooler, intake manifold, and midplate, and got them assembled into a little shrine in the corner while they wait for the engine.

The polished blower isn't quite what I had in mind since it doesn't fit the "could have been stock" theme, but I just couldn't walk away from the deal I was able to get on it. Might still try and trade it for one of the black powdercoated superchargers or do a silver vein or similar powdercoated finish on this one.

 

[hartsemperfi]

This vehicle is gorgeous and yes very inspiring. You have given us all something to think about well done.

 

[Texpedition]

Just got new leather for the front seats and arm rests. Last week it was a replacement for the tensioner and before that an overhaul of the intake manifold and replacement of related parts. Next up is a new '99 bumper. Then a new '99 grille and then on to the Lightning bumper cover.

 

[Tjhoward84]

Just found this forum. What you are doing to your truck is what I did to my '99 back in 2013 except I had someone do it as I don't possess the mad skills you have in order to pull this off myself. I love everything you're doing. The only difference is my is a 4x4 and I found a zero mile (brand new) Lightning crate engine in someones wearhouse - never been installed.

Here are some pictures.

I have a ton more pictures but these were on my work computer.

The highlights are:
2001 Ford Lightning Crate engine - zero miles
Long Tube SS heads w/high flow CATS and 3" SS all the way out the back
Stock Eaton blower that's polished and the Intercooler ported by Stiegemeyer
Completely built trans and transfer case
Lowered with Ground Force Lower Kit
Hotchkis Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars
Updated brake rotors and pads
OEM Lightning Headlights and Corner
Stillen Gen 2 Lower Lightning valance

 

[hartsemperfi]

Oh my

 

[Tjhoward84]

Hi Alex - as a base for the headlights I used generic Lightning replica headlights from ebay, along with this kit from TRS:

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...orimoto-mini-stage-3-kit-h1.html#.V6d8m2grLIU

I added Apollo 2.0 flat shrouds, etched lenses, and 100mm switchback halos.



Found them on ebay while browsing. Every once in a while they pop up.



South America, Europe, Middle East, Asia? I'm sure they went all over.

Can you elaborate on how you fit the mini H1s into the Lightning headlight shell? Also, what size (mm) of XBS 2.0 Switchback Halos did you use?

Thanks and great thread.

 

[eluther3]

Love this thread

 

[MISTERgadget]

TJ, badass build! Sometimes I wish mine were 4x4 just so it could hook on all 4 tires, that would hurt some feelings on the street! We have two very similar builds, great color choice too!

Can you elaborate on how you fit the mini H1s into the Lightning headlight shell? Also, what size (mm) of XBS 2.0 Switchback Halos did you use?

Thanks and great thread.

The halo was a 100mm halo. Getting the projector in is very easy. I reccomend using knockoffs of Lightning style housings, as they usually use butyl sealant instead of so-called "permaseal", and it makes for a very easy removal of the lens with a few passes of a heat gun around the edges of the lens. After removing the clips around the edges, heat up the seams, and once you visually see the sealant turning soft from the heat, pull the lens right off.

The Mini H1 7.0 is a tight fit depth-wise, but it can be installed using the threaded shaft and just barely clears the front lens. You have to cutoff part of the ring around where the bulb normally sits to make it easy to tighten everything down, it's very straightforward once everything is apart.

If I were doing it again today, I would use diode dynamics' new HD halos that just came out, they are much brighter, and the best part, made in USA!

Here's a picture I have of the backside that shows more detail:

 

[MISTERgadget]

Some minor updates, it's mostly "hurry up and wait" at this point on the cylinder heads to get back to the engine builder.

Finally stopped being lazy and after sitting on this guy for a few months, pulled the original short rod out of the hydroboost and replaced it with this adjustable unit from Tallon Hydraulics (no fun doing it once the HB was installed,I took the driver's seat out and laid on my back on the floor)

In the picture you see the new adjustable rod as well as the pulling tool for removing the fixed length rod.


image.jpeg3024x4032 1.94 MB


Less than an hour later, start to finish, I had already installed and adjusted the new rod, inckuding a mishap where I accidentally bent the piece of rod I tried using with the puller for my first attempt, and then trying to get it dislodged.



The superduty has a different geometry to the pedal setup so it uses a short rod from the hydroboost to the brake pedal. In an F-150/Expedition, this leads to a low brake pedal that sits below the accelerator pedal and feels like it doesn't have much room to go before hitting the floorboard. The longer rod brings the pedal back up, and having it threaded for adjustability lets you put it exactly where you want.

In months of driving the truck I never actually ran out of pedal travel, and perhaps it's just psychological, but once the pedal height was corrected, the brakes immediately felt even better and more confidence inspiring. Perhaps lifting the pedal back up corrects the geometry to give you more leverage. The pedal height feels right now and no need to adjust going from one truck to another. Now all 3 have the same pedal height and hydroboost, it's a real pleasure to drive.

 

[MISTERgadget]

and just because, a few pictures of the truck around the house after a fresh coat of collinite insulator wax.

and yes, the EB flares desperately need to be color matched!

 

[whitelightning99]

looks nice

 

[MISTERgadget]

Got the heads back from the porting wizards at Performance CNC (cncport.com)

Fully CNC Ported exhaust/intake runners and combustion chambers, 1mm oversize valves, new valve seals, new guides, new valve seats, upgraded crower springs and retainers.

 

[eluther3]

Are you color matching the fenders yourself? I just got a set of fenders from the junkyard to add to mine. Used the Duplicor Perfect Match in Oxford White and the 3 in 1 primer. It was a piece of cake

 

[MISTERgadget]

Dropped them off at a bodyshop last week actually, I should have them back friday and on the truck this weekend!

 

[MISTERgadget]

Got the paint matched fender trim on, way overdue!! It totally transformed the look of the truck.

 

[MISTERgadget]

The Expy also took a trip with me to the West Coast of FL to see family over the holidays

 

[Tjhoward84]

Absolutely beautiful but I am a little bias.

What's next for this beauty?