1999 XLT Rear DifferentialIssue

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tcm1065

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I have a 1999 XLT with a stock positraction rear axle. The vehicle has approximatly 160,000 miles on it and has, for the most part, been properly maintained.

I recently took it into a local mechanic (whom I believe is reasonably competent and honest)for an engine oil leak (leaking oil filter adapter bracket, which was repaired without further incident). while I had it there, I mentioned that the rear axle seals were leaking, and could he fix those. He later called me and told me that the rear pinion seal was leaking as well. I authorized repairs for both. It was reported to me that all the repairs had been completed and that everything looked good.

I then proceeded to take a rather lengthy road trip, 2600 miles in one week. (towards the end of the trip, i noticed a little bit of rear end noise, and made a mental note to call him up and mention it. Upon my return, I turned the vehicle over to my wife and kids (as many of us must reluctantly do) and didn't drive the vehicle for a couple weeks. They put another 400 miles on it, with out comment (as might be expected from one's wife and kids).

A couple of days ago, I drove the vehicle and noted that the rear end noise was considerably more noticeable. I crawled under the vehicle and noticed that the entire differential case, and the underside of the vehicle was coated in oil. and that there was a hose (breather?) that was loose. I decided to drive the vehicle to the mechanic the next day. On the way, (with very noticeable rear end noise, I stopped off for coffee and discovered that I couldn't maneuver in the parking lot; the differential appeared to be a locker now.

Eventually, i got it to the mechanic, and, after tearing into it, his statement was " the pinion bearing is pretty much destroyed, and possibly the carrier bearings too, and there is a lot of metal floating around. I don't know whatever could have caused it."

Is it just me? or is it kind of suspicious that I only started experiencing these issues after he worked on the differential and replaced the seals? Is there something that he could have done /screwed up on that lead to the premature demise of my pinion bearing? I am a reasonable person, and a mechanical engineer, and I understand that mechanical components don't last forever, and that there could be a variety of reasons why this failure may have occurred, but 160,000 miles doesn't seem like a stretch but it seems to me like this should be a mechanics warranty issue. I am told that, if the Pinion is messed around with, and the crush washer is not replaced or properly torqued upon reassembly, that it can totally mess things up. I don't want to screw anybody over, and I kind of like this mechanic, but i don't want to pay for his screw up.

Any comments/suggestions as to how I should proceed?
 
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stamp11127

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Send me your email address. I'll send you rebuild info that you can use to convince the mechanic it is on them and/or use in small claims court.

It is definitely on them for multiple reasons which I'll cover later when I'm on the home computer tonight.
 

98EXPnSRQ

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This mechanic caused your problems. The axles have to be pulled to change the seals. He obviously botched something up doing this. When you remove the pinion nut to replace the bearing you are relieving the pinion bearing preload. You have to tighten it back properly otherwise you can roach the bearing, which he didn't do. 160k miles on our rear axles is about mid life. They should go to 300k before you experience bearing/ring and pinion noise.
 

z168

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Yep I agree - very very suspicious. let us know how it goes
 

stamp11127

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Check your email.

Note that when a bearing fails it usually sends minute hardened steel particles into the lube. The contaminated lube then enters the remaining parts of the differential accelerating wear in those items - ring and pinion, spider gears, carrier bearings etc.

A good shop will replace all bearings/races and inspect the ring & pinion for damage. Depending on how long the damage was allowed to continue will determine the reusability of said ring and pinion. All it takes is one nick on the hardened wear surface and you have an expensive door stop.

I would expect the shop/mechanic to try and wiggle out of repairing their mistake and get you to pay for their mistake.

A good thing may be how you paid for it - plastic money can be wonderful at times since they will hold back payment until the problem is resolved.
 
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tcm1065

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Stamp,

Thanks for the pdf's

He's hasn't totally stepped up to taking care of this, but he is willing to work with me on this, which is fine by me. When I talked to him yesterday, he did mention that "getting the preload right on used bearings is tricky..." He's not directly admitting fault, but seems to me he realizes that there was a screw-up. Both the pdf you sent, and one of the other shops I spoke to indicate that you need to measure the preload torque before disassembly and reset it to that value; I suspect he just set it to the nominally spec'd value.

He has agreed to provide new bearings at cost, and say's he's only going to charge me for about 50% of the labor. Bottom line is I should get an overhauled axle for about half-price (~$500). Given the age and mileage of the vehicle, I can't really expect that it was gonna last forever, so I'm willing to meet him part-way.

Upon inspection, he assures me that, while the pinion and carrier bearings are shot, the ring and pinion and other components are in good shape. This all happened pretty fast, and I didn't operate the vehicle much after any symptoms other than noise occurred, so I don't think there was a lot of opportunity for damage to occur.

Finger's crossed for a positive, long-lasting outcome...
 

stamp11127

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They screw up, want you to pay $500 and you don't have an issue with that? How about they fix it for free and you dont drag their ass into small claims court! You're not getting anything out of the deal other than losing $500

A good mechanic will own their mistakes plus cover the repair costs. I've always covered any additional repairs that I've caused.
 
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Dantheman

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I hate to tell you but the other parts in the diff are trashed. If the spider gears locked due to the meal bits in the oil it is certain that all the gear surfaces are now pitted. Get a second opinion and then go to the original mechanic and tell him to fix it on his dime or you will see him in court.
 
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