2003 Expedition Face Lift Begins

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

FRD88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
15
Location
Montana
Got over to the bumper shop yesterday to see the bumper before it got sent to powder coating. He wasn't able to put the bars on the side of the main bar because it would have been in the way of lights but it saves me a little money and I still like what it looks like. The one thing he forgot to install was a hitch receiver but he said not a big deal and he will get one put on today then it will be going to powder. What you all think? I really like the fact the bar doesn't block the emblem and that he was able to get the edge near the wheel well trim flush (thanks to Van Bob for that tip!).


upload_2018-3-20_8-1-26.png upload_2018-3-20_8-1-36.png upload_2018-3-20_8-1-42.png
 

Rockclutch

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2016
Posts
89
Reaction score
30
Location
California
Got over to the bumper shop yesterday to see the bumper before it got sent to powder coating. He wasn't able to put the bars on the side of the main bar because it would have been in the way of lights but it saves me a little money and I still like what it looks like. The one thing he forgot to install was a hitch receiver but he said not a big deal and he will get one put on today then it will be going to powder. What you all think? I really like the fact the bar doesn't block the emblem and that he was able to get the edge near the wheel well trim flush (thanks to Van Bob for that tip!).


View attachment 24355 View attachment 24356 View attachment 24357
That looks awesome!

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
Vancouver Bob

Vancouver Bob

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
719
Reaction score
356
Location
Vancouver, WA
Got over to the bumper shop yesterday to see the bumper before it got sent to powder coating. He wasn't able to put the bars on the side of the main bar because it would have been in the way of lights but it saves me a little money and I still like what it looks like. The one thing he forgot to install was a hitch receiver but he said not a big deal and he will get one put on today then it will be going to powder. What you all think? I really like the fact the bar doesn't block the emblem and that he was able to get the edge near the wheel well trim flush (thanks to Van Bob for that tip!).


That looks BAD ASS! Fits perfectly too! They did a great job!! Post another pic once it gets podwer coated. Thanks for sharing!
 

FRD88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
15
Location
Montana
Yes it is called CK Fab -Custom Bumpers just outside Billings, MT. He does awesome work and he has worked with me picking out what I wanted. This is the first 2nd gen bumper he has done so it cost me a little more, but so far I think he is doing a great job. The powder coat won't be done until early next week so once its complete and I get it back I'll post some more pics.

https://www.ckfabbumpers.com/
 
OP
OP
Vancouver Bob

Vancouver Bob

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
719
Reaction score
356
Location
Vancouver, WA
Yes it is called CK Fab -Custom Bumpers just outside Billings, MT. He does awesome work and he has worked with me picking out what I wanted. This is the first 2nd gen bumper he has done so it cost me a little more, but so far I think he is doing a great job. The powder coat won't be done until early next week so once its complete and I get it back I'll post some more pics.

https://www.ckfabbumpers.com/

I forgot to ask if you settled on a color? Are you going with a color match or are you going black?
 

FRD88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
15
Location
Montana
I did decided to go with a dark green texture (Dark Emerald Texture from Prismatic Colors to be specific). I went dark because it will fade over time and I couldn't get powder coat to match. I went with powder coating vs bed liner because it should be easier to clean and the bed liner guy never got around to giving me some examples like he said he would do.
 

FRD88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
15
Location
Montana
Got her back a couple of weeks ago and still working out some minor details but overall I am very happy with it. The color did come out darker than expected so at first it looks black but it was overcast and does look green in the sun. Not a huge deal and no real reason to cry over it I chose it and its done. Its also dirty in these pics because it rained the night before after a dust storm which made everything nasty.

I still need to mount a license plate bracket that folds allowign access to the hitch and order a set of spot lights. The one thing that i haven't figured out, which shouldn't be difficult, is reattaching the rubber flap under the radiator that the tranny lines go through. The bumper doesn't have any bracket to mount it to, so I will just need to fab up a piece of metal to go across so it can have something to mount to. I tried removing it temporarily but I didn't realize it until I removed the plastic push tabs, that the tranny lines need to be taken off the cooler to remove it, so I just zip tied it up for now. I will try to get some better pics once she gets a bath. Running a flattrack motorcycle race this weekend and will be hauling the bike with it, so it will be in a dust cloud then it will be bath time.

upload_2018-4-19_15-59-5.png upload_2018-4-19_15-59-11.png
 
OP
OP
Vancouver Bob

Vancouver Bob

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
719
Reaction score
356
Location
Vancouver, WA
Got her back a couple of weeks ago and still working out some minor details but overall I am very happy with it. The color did come out darker than expected so at first it looks black but it was overcast and does look green in the sun. Not a huge deal and no real reason to cry over it I chose it and its done. Its also dirty in these pics because it rained the night before after a dust storm which made everything nasty.

I still need to mount a license plate bracket that folds allowign access to the hitch and order a set of spot lights. The one thing that i haven't figured out, which shouldn't be difficult, is reattaching the rubber flap under the radiator that the tranny lines go through. The bumper doesn't have any bracket to mount it to, so I will just need to fab up a piece of metal to go across so it can have something to mount to. I tried removing it temporarily but I didn't realize it until I removed the plastic push tabs, that the tranny lines need to be taken off the cooler to remove it, so I just zip tied it up for now. I will try to get some better pics once she gets a bath. Running a flattrack motorcycle race this weekend and will be hauling the bike with it, so it will be in a dust cloud then it will be bath time.

View attachment 24723 View attachment 24724

Looks GREAT! My flap is still flapping around too. Plan is to drill holes to the bottom of the bumper and use those plastic push clips to hold the flap in place. Long term I'd like to get a metal skid plate up under there.

Great job with the bumper! What's next?
 

FRD88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
15
Location
Montana
Thanks! I would really like a metal skid plate as well, I have already looked at the local yards with no luck.

Next is getting the Rancho quicklift's I have installed once I can get some new rubber. It will be a while before I can purchase tires because my father in law invited my wife and I to Key West this August. Once my mom said she would visit and watch the kids so we can go kid free I said lets go. I have never been around the ocean so I am excited and figured the tires can wait.

Recently I have installed a new radio that I can hook up a rear camera to and swapped all interior lights with LEDs.
 

FRD88

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2017
Posts
59
Reaction score
15
Location
Montana
Here are a couple quick pictures I took today to show the green color a little better.

upload_2018-5-16_14-57-18.png upload_2018-5-16_14-57-29.png
 
OP
OP
Vancouver Bob

Vancouver Bob

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
719
Reaction score
356
Location
Vancouver, WA
Decided it was time to replace my front calipers (for the third time) and thought I'd replace the hubs at the same time. Going with EBC GD7137 with the orange stuff pads.

Getting the hubs replaced was easy enough. Had a heck of a time trying to find where I connect the anti-lock brake sensor under the hood. When I disconnected it I simply reached up from under the wheel well, squeezed the connected here and there until it disconnected. But when i went to reconnect it, I couldn't find where I disconnected it from! Couldn't see it from the top with the hood open so finally just started reaching around everywhere I could reach from underneath and finally found it. The mating connector is tucked away underneath the coolant tank.

While I had the hub off I was examining the inside and thought things looked a little roughed up. Tried to make sense of how the hub actuator hubs worked. So started the engine and put it in 4ALL to see which part moved... made more sense.

Got the driver side done and will get the passenger side next.

One thing I noticed when I disconnected the outer tie rod was one or two decent sized metal shavings under the bolt to the ball joint. Noticed this back when I replaced the tie rods as well. Made me wonder if the tie rod end isn't working it's way loose in the knuckle from all the shuddering due to "warpped' rotors I've had over it's life. I'll pull the tie rod end off again and look to see if I can tell where the metal is coming from. I'm still getting a very slight wobble in the front and am thinking this may be where it's coming from. The tire feels tight but perhaps under load it gives just a bit.

Here are some pictures I managed to grab...

Backside of the old hub...

IMG_9803.JPG


Looking in at the hub actuator (disengaged), looks rather chewed up in there. Should have replaced these while I was at it. Will get a pair on order... can maybe get them here by the weekend when I do the passenger side.

IMG_9804.JPG

Hub actuator (engaged)...

IMG_9812.JPG

One side completed. Took me a while and a couple of trips to the auto parts store (brake cleaner, grease, loctite). I will replace the brake fluid while I'm at it. The black protective coating will come off once I bed the pads.

IMG_9817.JPG
 
OP
OP
Vancouver Bob

Vancouver Bob

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
719
Reaction score
356
Location
Vancouver, WA
Received the new hub actuators yesterday and managed to get the one side done. It's like 97 degrees out and I was sweating my b@lls off! I tried getting the half shaft out without disconnecting anything but that was proving to be impossible so disconnected, pulled the tie rod and upper ball joint. I also needed to support the truck with some jack stands so that I could raise up the knuckle from underneath the lower control arm. With a bit of effort and twisting and pushing I was able to get the end of the half shaft out, replace the hub actuator, and get it all back together. Had to take a break before tackling the passenger side.

IMG_9819.JPG

After removing the tie rod I examined the mounting hole at the knuckle to see if I could tell where the metal shavings were coming from. Not super clear, but when I put the tie rod back in, there is a tiny bit of movement. The base of the ball joint on the tie rod has a nice angled mounting surface so I imagine with that snugged up against and in the lower part of the knuckle that there isn't going to be much, if any movement.

IMG_9823.JPG

IMG_9824.JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Vancouver Bob

Vancouver Bob

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Posts
719
Reaction score
356
Location
Vancouver, WA
FINALLY got around to finishing up the passenger side. Went a lot easier... this time I immediately disconnected the tie rod and upper control arm from the knuckle.

IMG_9833.jpg

Having the freedom to rotate the knuckle around made getting the caliper bracket, hub, and hub actuator off much easier. Got it all back together along with new rotors and brake pads. Started pushing out the old brake fluid but stopped after only flushing the front passenger side. I was a little too eager to take it out for a drive and bed the pads. Brakes feel great! AND no more occasional, yet frequent clicking coming from the front passenger side. I'm guessing the hub actuator must have been the culprit. Either way, the noise is gone, she drives smoother (no rotor pulsation) so I'm a happy camper! Just in time for a road trip up to Seattle for a wedding on Saturday, and then a three day camping trip at the beach (Ft. Stevens) on Sunday. Woo Hoo! Looking forward to taking the week off!
 
Last edited:

scoot0073

Full Access Members
Joined
Dec 30, 2016
Posts
526
Reaction score
191
Location
Georgia
FINALLY got around to finishing up the passenger side. Went a lot easier... this time I immediately disconnected the tie rod and upper control arm from the knuckle.

View attachment 26074

Having the freedom to rotate the knuckle around made getting the caliper bracket, hub, and hub actuator off much easier. Got it all back together along with new rotors and brake pads. Started pushing out the old brake fluid but stopped after only flushing the front passenger side. I was a little too eager to take it out for a drive and bed the pads. Brakes feel great! AND no more occasional, yet frequent clicking coming from the front passenger side. I'm guessing the hub actuator must have been the culprit. Either way, the noise is gone, she drives smoother (no rotor pulsation) so I'm a happy camper! Just in time for a road trip up to Seattle for a wedding on Saturday, and then a three day camping trip at the beach (Ft. Stevens) on Sunday. Woo Hoo! Looking forward to taking the week off!
After reading this I wonder the clicking sound I here only when I turn is my CV axles..
I looked at them all over about 2 months ago when I replaced my upper control arms and look good boots in good condition..

And now about 2 weeks ago I've developed a clunk sound every time I come to a complete stop. Which could be a failing U Joint.

And my transfer case is slammed full of tranny fluid so this Friday I'm gonna go buy the input shaft seal on the Transfer Case to fix that problem..


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
 

Jb14

Full Access Members
Joined
Oct 1, 2012
Posts
281
Reaction score
64
Location
California
After reading this I wonder the clicking sound I here only when I turn is my CV axles..
I looked at them all over about 2 months ago when I replaced my upper control arms and look good boots in good condition..

And now about 2 weeks ago I've developed a clunk sound every time I come to a complete stop. Which could be a failing U Joint.

And my transfer case is slammed full of tranny fluid so this Friday I'm gonna go buy the input shaft seal on the Transfer Case to fix that problem..


Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
You may also want to check your 4 wheel activators, they are vacuum activated and in some cases, the solenoid or vacuum line can be the issue. The solenoid is attached to the firewall on the passenger side and on earlier versions, the solenoid did not have a cover and water could corrode, ford later puts a cover on to lessen issue. If the solenoid or vacuum is not working correctly that could partially keep the 4 wheel activator engaged where the teeth on the activators will tough a bit.
 
Top