2004 expedition, 315k miles, 4x4, still banging.

[korbinG]

Wassup truck enthusiasts .

I'm now having a small evap leak diagnosed. Acquired at 270k miles, ran good, but during 2 years I replaced the spark plugs, one coil over plug, the heater diverter T by the 1st bank, the intake manifold after a coolant leak on the gasket, front brake pads, fuel cap, (the emissions testing passed my replacement fuel cap) front wheels u joint and drive shaft are removed after the u joint started wobbling on the highway, I replaced the front wheel vacuum assisted locking wheel hubs (they were grinding when a low vacuum happened at the top of the manifold), , and removed the 4x4 vacuum solenoid that activates the locking wheel hubs , (capped off the vacuum lines that go to it) I replaced vacuum hoses before the EGR, which allowed me to redirect the vacuum actuated HVAC blend doors, and I replaced a failed blend door actuator. My scan tool shows me (-1400 kPa) when start up idling for a few minutes leading me to believe the evap canister is clogged and not venting properly, but I'm here to get more insight about my cool truck and hopefully avoid big repairs or prolong the life of this 5.4L Triton engine. Suspension work is next, (I'm in hot arid climate) and I want to prepare to replace the timing chain and maybe top engine refining (valve lifters,) . Pretty soon. I appreciate advice and resources, and I'm concerned that the engine is burning proper ratios and keeping me from problems with the emissions people. Thanks in advance for some direction

 

[korbinG]

The referenced -1400 kPa is the scanners claim of the gas tank pressure sensor while idling or light driving while diagnosing emissions data. ( The evap vent solenoid shows no fault and claims to be venting while the -1400 kPa gas tank sensor is reported ) Also, I want to note that I recently replaced the alternator after the main output terminal had overheated and burned up the connector boot, causing the battery indicator to illuminate . Now (after replacing the alternator) the scan tool shows me at good voltage and amperage delivery, but every few seconds there's a blip of voltage down to 0 volts (scan tool verified) which triggers the battery warning light, which is inaccurate because 99% of the time it's pushing the 14v leading me to believe the ECM is faulty or maybe wiring down the line, which is not my concern and that will not fail emissions.

 

[danimerciss22]

welcome

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