2011 Expedition EL Limited overhaul

[Jozef Zoldos]

I have a 2011 Expedition EL Limited with 135K miles on it. I just picked it up and it has a couple of issues including one of the oxygen sensors and a Blower motor problem. After diagnosing a bad O2 sensor, I changed it out and the error code disappeared.

Going forward, I plan to overhaul all common failure items before I drive it across the country and give it to my kid. What are common problems/failure parts on these vehicles with this type of mileage?

 

[Adieu]

Plugs, throttle body (pull the dang thing out and do both sides), double oil change (put in some walmart oil of new weight, pour in half a can of seafoam, drive 100 miles, dump again) and go synthetic at least 5w30 not 5w20 like the manual says

 

[mjp2]

Replace the heater hose with Dorman 626-540 to avoid having the factory plastic piece crack and leak coolant onto your passenger side coil packs.

Shocks are likely shot.

Transmission bulkhead connector should be replaced with the updated part to avoid future leaks. It's also an opportunity to do a transmissions fluid flush.

Might be worth swapping out the flex brake lines as a preemptive measure. They tend to fail inside and make it seem like a caliper is locking up on you.

It's all pretty easy stuff. These trucks are solid.

 

[JollyRoger]

2010 Limited, with 196K miles. I had the blower motor issue (wiring connector replacement under passenger side dash), but none of the other issues listed above. Agree on the plugs, and drop the transmission pan and change the filter/fluid. Don't flush it, like they do at the quick change oil place. I'd also do fluid changes in transfer case and rear diff. They are easy.

Not a big fan of seafoam or similar stuff in these engines but that's up to you. Oil change to synthetic 5w30, always use Motorcraft FL820 filters (some may disagree with me).

Definitely spark plugs, if they've not been done before.

Another item that may be worth replacing is the VTC valves. They are pretty inexpensive and easy to change on these models. If it's running strong now, then probably leave them for later. Same with the COP's.

Shouldn't need struts at 135K unless undue abuse with previous owner. Also, my seat heater quit working but it's not important enough for me to fix.

This is all my 2 cents and just based on my experiences. This is my 2nd Expy. Others may have different suggestions.

Hope your son enjoys it!

 

[rjdelp7]

Plugs, throttle body (pull the dang thing out and do both sides), double oil change (put in some walmart oil of new weight, pour in half a can of seafoam, drive 100 miles, dump again) and go synthetic at least 5w30 not 5w20 like the manual says

Don't do this.

 

[rjdelp7]

Plugs, throttle body (pull the dang thing out and do both sides), double oil change (put in some walmart oil of new weight, pour in half a can of seafoam, drive 100 miles, dump again) and go synthetic at least 5w30 not 5w20 like the manual says

Don't do this.

 

[16plati]

Don't do this.

I would disagree to an extent. I would definitely double flush the oil and go full synthetic. Be warned, a lot of times the motor won’t like going from one weight to another after having one type for that many miles. A double flush should be ok though. Definitely find motorcraft filter too

I would agree with rj (eventhough this may be the first time I agree with him on something) to not do seafoam. Get yourself the following:

CRC throttle body cleaner
CRC MAF cleaner
Motorcraft spark plugs (gapped to factory specs)
Possibly boots if they are cracked at all

Remove the throttle body and MAF and clean them thoroughly.

Change your plugs and check the boots. Find out what factory gap is for plugs and ensure they are gapped correctly.

As for weight of oil, @ManUpOrShutUp jjst had oil analysis done on his 2011 using 5w20 by blackstone and they said it looked awesome

 

[Scott Carden]

Ok 2011 el limited. Basically same as my 2014 king ranch. Change plugs, do oil change with motorcraft filter and oil. I recommend 5w-30 synthetic blend. Walmart for the oil 19$ Amazon for the filter 5-6$ clean the mas, map,
Change trans filter and fluid, and transfer case if it has it and also the antifreeze.
Blower motor is probably the 15$ resistor on the pass side under glove compartment.
Check to make sure the cam phasers are still ok and not making noise when you first start it up. If it’s noisy you may need a timing set and change related components with Ford only products except oil pump . Put in a Melling aftermarket high volume or comparable name brand aftermarket pump as they make the valve train last a long time. I see them down here with 350k plus miles every day.
Lube the electric running boards if it has them and you should be good. They are solid trucks that last a long time and 135k is like brand new if it was half maintained. You can usually tell how well any vehicle was taken care of by the condition of the interior.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

You can usually tell how well any vehicle was taken care of by the condition of the interior.

My mom is an obsessive neat freak and the interior of her car usually still has the new car smell a couple years in. She covers the seats in towels from day one until she sells it. However, she never changes the oil or does maintenance of any kind. Heck, she doesn't even check the oil nor does my dad. She shifts into drive while the car is still rolling backwards. She dumps her cars every 3 years because she craves new things and the dealers give her squat on the trade. I could offer her less and she would give me the car because I'm her son, but I don't want anything she has ever driven because I know the car has lived the life of a car with 2-3x the mileage.

My wife, on the other hand, is the biggest slob I have ever met. Her car is so disgusting I don't even want to sit in it. It smells like a dumpster full of sweaty gym socks a good deal of the time. There are heaps of moldy food under the seats and there's usually some type of food remnant stuck to the seats, dash and/or steering wheel. I highly recommend a tetanus shot for anyone that dares to sit in that vehicle. Nonetheless, it is mechanically very well-maintained because I maintain it.

I get where you're coming from because I take care of my vehicles inside and out, but I wouldn't cling too strongly to that correlation between inside/maintenance of the vehicle.

 

[bobmbx]

My wife, on the other hand, is the biggest slob I have ever met. Her car is so disgusting I don't even want to sit in it. It smells like a dumpster full of sweaty gym socks a good deal of the time. There are heaps of moldy food under the seats and there's usually some type of food remnant stuck to the seats, dash and/or steering wheel. I highly recommend a tetanus shot for anyone that dares to sit in that vehicle. Nonetheless, it is mechanically very well-maintained because I maintain it.

I bet we'll run into each other at a family reunion somewhere........my wife's car is exactly the same.

 

[Scott Carden]

Lol my wife’s too! Lol but not mine.