2017 Expedition Positive Battery Terminal

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Michael McC

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I had the green fungus on my positive terminal. The cause was a cracked battery case at the base of the terminal. I cleaned it up, replaced the terminal (see photo in post #7), and sealed the terminal base with JB Weld. Worked well enough until new battery time.
 

Andy Rubalcaba

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On my 2005 i cut off the factory terminal AND LEFT ENOUGH OF THE COPPER TO DRILL A HOLE AND USED A MARINE TERMINAL REPLACEMENT. NICE BRASS REPLACEMENT, THAT WAS ABOUT 3 YEARS AGO STILL GOING STRONG
I almost went this route but fixed the terminal issue I was having on my '08 ( actually it was just the bolt and nut that give the terminal clamp force, I found a different bolt and nut to use ).

I gotta say, the marine terminals looks nice, I still might change mine over to that one day.

@OP, make sure to put some dielectric grease on the terminals and do a monthly cleaning yourself. Just use a wire brush, take off the cables and scrub everything, then use either the grease or you can buy a lubricating spray ( Noco, CRC, what ever brand you want ). You'll want to prevent corrosion on your own, dielectric grease is great to keep around and it's only a few bucks for a tube of it.
 
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GlennSullivan

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I'd like to provide an update on this. As others suggested This situation was caused by a leaking positive battery post that destroyed the positive terminal even though I cleaned it at every oil change (4,000 miles).

My 2017 Expy Limited was covered by Ford Premium extended warranty. They told me that the terminal is not replaceable by itself - have to replace the entire power harness and refused to cover it under warranty. Quoting me "about $800 plus tax) to install the new power harness not including another $140 for the battery.

Others here advised the terminal is replaceable, so I compared the positive terminal attached to a new entire power wiring harness for the 2017 as well as the recommended individual part number positive terminal. They are both identical, though the dealer and Ford computer that they are not compatible.

The positive terminal has the battery monitor as well as a secondary positive power cable bolted vis individual posts and nuts for each. The main positive power cable is crimped to the terminal and not easily removable. The main cable is also too short to cut off the old terminal, restrip the cable and crimp on a new one. BTW The negative terminal has 1 easily removable bolted on cable, which could certainly have been done with the positive terminal.

I unbolted the battery monitor, and secondary cable bolted to the positive terminal and then carefully cut the back of where the positive terminal is crimped to the main power cable and removed the terminal. I cleaned up the main cable and installed and crimped on the new terminal along with several pieces of shrink tubing.

Installed a new battery (BTX-65-850) to replace the leaking (BTX-65-750) one, reconnected all the terminals, sprayed on some terminal protectant and all is well.

I'd like those of you that have had the same issue to post in this thread as I'm going to have a further discussion with the Dealer / Ford and NTSB, who already has a notification open on this situation.

20210827_095041.jpg20211022_144234.jpg20211022_145212.jpgView attachment 70862View attachment 7086320211022_151102.jpg20211023_123419.jpg
 
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JustHarsh

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I'd like those of you that have had the same issue to post in this thread as I'm going to have a further discussion with the Dealer / Ford and NTSB, who already has a notification open on this situation.
Same issue with the terminals; heavily corroded. I didn't have to replace the terminals (although I did order them). I was certain I would need to replace at least the positive. I used baking soda and water to get most of the surface corrosion removed. Terminals still wouldn't budge from the battery posts. I then sprayed Blaster PB on the terminals and let it soak for about 30 minutes. Some light tapping with a rubber mallet and gentle prying with a standard screwdriver I was able to loosen the terminals from the battery posts. I used a wire brush and some steel wool to clean up the terminals. Applied a generous amount of anti corrosion gel to new battery posts and terminals and was back in business.
 
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GlennSullivan

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Same issue with the terminals; heavily corroded. I didn't have to replace the terminals (although I did order them). I was certain I would need to replace at least the positive. I used baking soda and water to get most of the surface corrosion removed. Terminals still wouldn't budge from the battery posts. I then sprayed Blaster PB on the terminals and let it soak for about 30 minutes. Some light tapping with a rubber mallet and gentle prying with a standard screwdriver I was able to loosen the terminals from the battery posts. I used a wire brush and some steel wool to clean up the terminals. Applied a generous amount of anti corrosion gel to new battery posts and terminals and was back in business.
The battery case under the positive terminal may be cracked, as mine was which allowed acid to seep and cause the severe terminal corrosion, even though I was cleaning at each oil change.

Keep a close eye on it as you may need to change the battery.
 

JustHarsh

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The battery case under the positive terminal may be cracked, as mine was which allowed acid to seep and cause the severe terminal corrosion, even though I was cleaning at each oil change.

Keep a close eye on it as you may need to change the battery.
I swapped out the battery during this process.
 

EngineerMike

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I haven't had this issue w/my 99 Gen1, but had the same problem w/2012 Nissan Frontier, positive post corroding ridiculously & killing a bank of fusible links bolted to the +term. Battery sensor is 3-wire type w/a CT coil wrapped around the negative cable. Charge voltage was variable starting at 13+ on startup but dropped rapidly to 12.3v which won't charge a battery. After the corrosion issue had me stall out while driving, finally having to be towed to dealership the dealer jackassed around under warranty replacing the PDM, ECM & finally the fusible links, I had the corrosion problem back within weeks. I switched to AGM type battery, no more corrosion but the more expensive battery still died after about 2-2.5 years which is ridiculous. I unplugged the battery sensor and charge volts are steady state at 14v, battery is happy & long lived. Car mfgr's dial the charge voltage down to battery killing levels for less drag on the engine so they can report higher EPA mpg & higher fleet mpg. Wife's '16 Subaru has same b.s., low charge voltage, killing batteries in less than 2 years, corrosion on pos terminal.
I suggest unplugging the battery sensor on all vehicles, especially in winter but no reason not to do so year around, low voltage kills batteries. Pretty sure that applies to lithium also.
 

princered72

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Started having an issue with my 14 Expedition Limited. Sitting over night and go to start it and battery is drained. Thought is might be my phone charger or dash cam but even with those unplugged still drained the next day or turns over very slow. Noticed the green corrosion on positive terminal. Cleaned it once about 2 weeks ago and back in force again. Had the battery checked and it is ok. I am going to check the battery for any cracks also and the cables
 

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