4th Gen Wiring Diagram?

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aggiegrad05

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Man, I hate to start a new thread......but a search of existing threads didn't give me anything.

Where might I find a wiring diagram for the 4th gens?

I had rear seat entertainment installed on Tuesday (here: https://www.expeditionforum.com/thr...ainment-ok-or-a-bust.42621/page-5#post-400310) and the shop installed them in such a way that they are not playing nice with the Auto Start/Stop.....

(Yes, yes, I know, ASS is the devil and caused coronavirus and shot JR and I should shut it off and yada yada yada. But I don't want to. So there.)

When I come to a stop and the engine shuts off, the monitors stay on, no problem. BUT, when the engine comes back on as I lift my foot off the brake, the monitors power cycle. Which is a problem. So the shop clearly didn't tap into a circuit that stays hot throughout the engine on/off cycle. I previously had cheap tv's plugged into the 12v plug in the rear of the center console and had no problem, so it's obvious to me the shop tapped into something other than that plug.

Now, the obvious thing is to take it to the shop and let them figure it out. But given what I know about independent car audio installation shops, I don't have high hopes for a quick solution. So I was hoping to find a diagram or something to take in with me to show them where an "always hot" line is.

Can anyone help?
 

BFD350

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Check out an accessory for the Valentine One radar detector called the “brown our booster” or “Bob” as they call it. I had to buy one so my detector would not reboot at every stop sign and traffic light. Not sure if there are other more general versions for entertainment systems out there but at least you know a solution is possible. There are videos on YouTube on how to make your own if you’re into electronics, although the cost was the same as the Bob. Can’t link to it but just go to Valentine’s site and Shop and you can locate it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AKentPhoto

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Sounds like a capacitor...

Some electronics are more picky than others when it comes to drop in voltage. The easiest thing to do would be to put in a capacitor which is basically a short term battery that fills the gap in voltage as the vehicle starts back up...

Unless like you said they found a circuit that actually turns off while starting. If you have a volt meter you could check and see if it dips or actually turns off while starting.
 
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aggiegrad05

aggiegrad05

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Thank you @BFD350 and @AKentPhoto

It sounds like the BOB is a capacitor so I think y'all are saying the same thing.

I wonder how long that lasts, i.e. if the car stays off for a 3 minute red light, will it maintain for that long?

EDIT: nevermind, it only needs to keep the power up for 1 second while the vehicle powers back up, not during the whole off cycle. I got it now.
 

sjwhiteley

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Thank you @BFD350 and @AKentPhoto

It sounds like the BOB is a capacitor so I think y'all are saying the same thing.

I wonder how long that lasts, i.e. if the car stays off for a 3 minute red light, will it maintain for that long?
Unlikely. You have 12V while the car is stopped; or running. While starting, the voltage can drop significantly (you'll see the halogen lights dim). Some devices require voltage to be maintained, or are sensitive to voltage fluctuations. The capacitors simplistically 'ride out' this brief power dip - they store enough energy to maintain voltage above the minimum required for the equipment. If the equipment has a relatively high power draw, it'll need larger capacitors.
 
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aggiegrad05

aggiegrad05

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This all makes good sense. The cheap units I had previously had a small battery in them (ostensibly so you could use them away from the vehicle). So that battery in the unit would have served as its own capacitor. Which means I may have had this "problem" all along with the old tvs and just never realized it because they had a battery.

Thanks for all the help, group!
 

wakeboarder

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My cheap units don’t have a battery and they stay on during auto start and regular starts. Is your battery low from not driving it much lately?

Is there an input voltage listed on the side of the display? If it is under 12 volts then it likely relies on a dc dc converter. Maybe it is giving up with the voltage dip. I would contact the screen manufacturer to determine if is normal.

I will try to measure the voltage drop at the 12vdc socket and battery this weekend with an oscilloscope just to see what the voltage drop is on mine.

I haven’t looked at a BOB, but I would think that beyond a capacitor you would need a resistor and a diode prior to it. The diode would keep the capacitor voltage from escaping back to the starter motor. The resistor would reduce the inrush current when power is applied. The resistor and diode would take the full current all the time.
 
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aggiegrad05

aggiegrad05

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My cheap units don’t have a battery and they stay on during auto start and regular starts. Is your battery low from not driving it much lately?

Is there an input voltage listed on the side of the display? If it is under 12 volts then it likely relies on a dc dc converter. Maybe it is giving up with the voltage dip. I would contact the screen manufacturer to determine if is normal.

I will try to measure the voltage drop at the 12vdc socket and battery this weekend with an oscilloscope just to see what the voltage drop is on mine.

I haven’t looked at a BOB, but I would think that beyond a capacitor you would need a resistor and a diode prior to it. The diode would keep the capacitor voltage from escaping back to the starter motor. The resistor would reduce the inrush current when power is applied. The resistor and diode would take the full current all the time.

The units claim the following:

Operation Voltage: 10.5VDC ~ 16VDC, Operation Power: 18W max @ 12VDC

I called the install shop this morning and he knew exactly what I was talking about. Said they just needed to use a “different module”. I don’t know what that means but I guess we’ll find out.

It’ll go back in at 2 today and they said they’d get me all fixed up.
 

Dice Roll

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Why can’t shops install this stuff right the first time? I’m still using my aftermarket dvd by plugging in the fuse tap to the sunroof fuse.

I think the real solution is a micro 3 fuse tap, which is scarce I’ve found, to tap the rear entertainment wiring. The tap I got in won’t fit physically in the fuse box. Waiting on another one, or get the time to cut on the housing of the tap I have to see if I can get it down into the box.

just a crock of shit to have to do this. The dickwads the dealer used to do this won’t do anything to help. ******** could just say they won’t instead of feigning they will when I’ve called. 600 miles away or I’d have already been there, virus or not.
 

Dice Roll

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I can tell you the sunroof and the camera system are not keyed 12 volts, or at least you can’t use the camera system fuse like the dicky dumbfucks did if you want that function to work. Or drive modes etc.
 
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