$750 for positive battery cable
- Thread starter KenL
- Start date
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Trainmaster
Old School Member
You can always make up a cable from parts or simply splice in a new clamp or component. I just don't know who would do it for you if you couldn't do it yourself.
Part# 7L1Z-14300-AA fits a 2008 and it's discontinued. Probably fits other years too; I didn't check. It lists for $551, and you can buy it for $330 if you can find it.
You can always look for one in a junkyard, but I'd repair the existing one first. If you can't find someone to do it, check with an old school auto-electric shop that still rebuilds alternators and starters in-house. They'll know someone who'll fix the old one for a hundred bucks for sure.
Welcome here, by the way.
Part# 7L1Z-14300-AA fits a 2008 and it's discontinued. Probably fits other years too; I didn't check. It lists for $551, and you can buy it for $330 if you can find it.
You can always look for one in a junkyard, but I'd repair the existing one first. If you can't find someone to do it, check with an old school auto-electric shop that still rebuilds alternators and starters in-house. They'll know someone who'll fix the old one for a hundred bucks for sure.
Welcome here, by the way.
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99WhiteC5Coupe
Full Access Members
Read this (and do it yourself): https://ford.oemdtc.com/4524/battery-cable-clamp-corrosion-repair-2012-2019-ford-lincoln
(PS - Year, make, model and engine would help others give advice).
Eric Mowrer
Well-Known Member
Military Battery terminal
copper ring wire lug (terminal)
Heavy duty adhesive heat shrink
Hydraulic crimper from Harbor Freight
under $100
Rewired my Jeep and winch this way... very easy
copper ring wire lug (terminal)
Heavy duty adhesive heat shrink
Hydraulic crimper from Harbor Freight
under $100
Rewired my Jeep and winch this way... very easy
07navi
Full Access Members
Why is it so high priced?
Because they are crooks.
Any way you can hook up a heavy gauge cable to make proper connection and insulate so it will not touch ground source will work just fine.
Don Hall
Full Access Members
You don't need a vehicle specific cable. The only important dimension is from terminal to post. ! foot longer is no problem.
Try AutoZone.....less than $20
Try AutoZone.....less than $20
762mm
Full Access Members
Holy sh*t!
I hope it comes with a complimentary jar of lube, at least...
(yeah, I second the junkyard or DIY solution... instead of the stealership's highway robbery!)
I hope it comes with a complimentary jar of lube, at least...
(yeah, I second the junkyard or DIY solution... instead of the stealership's highway robbery!)
07navi
Full Access Members
I just so happen to have one that I will sell you for $495. ($55 saving)
jeff kushner
Full Access Members
Hey Kent, besides 07's offer above, see any popup ads in the corner yet offering you one for $600 yet? Targeted advertising.....
750 for a piece of wire?....not even an expensive piece of wire....what is is it, 8-6 ga?
jeff
750 for a piece of wire?....not even an expensive piece of wire....what is is it, 8-6 ga?
jeff
Blksmk
Full Access Members
Just use a old booster cable and make your own. Hell upgrade all the cables using the booster cables, it's called the big 3 upgrade it makes a noticeable difference. I did mine 3 weeks ago
What Don said earlier..."
You don't need a vehicle specific cable. The only important dimension is from terminal to post. ! foot longer is no problem.
Try AutoZone.....less than $20"
No reason to hack up good jumper cables ans the cheaper ones use terrible gauge and quality wire.
You can make any cable you want with some crimpers or vise grips in pinch-- ha ha- that's funny right there. You can even solder the end terminals together if you want. Shrink wrap will make it look factory.
You don't need a vehicle specific cable. The only important dimension is from terminal to post. ! foot longer is no problem.
Try AutoZone.....less than $20"
No reason to hack up good jumper cables ans the cheaper ones use terrible gauge and quality wire.
You can make any cable you want with some crimpers or vise grips in pinch-- ha ha- that's funny right there. You can even solder the end terminals together if you want. Shrink wrap will make it look factory.
07navi
Full Access Members
Easy fix..……..
Blksmk
Full Access Members
I had 4 pairs of heavy duty booster cables I use for the semi and for boosting my friends diesels. So I just took a pair cut my cables and I'm noticing a very nice difference. Headlights brighter less draw and battery seems to charge faster.
Headlights could be better and no pulsing or flittering but it would be very hard electrically to have any effect on the charging. The alt doesn't even use a wire nearly as heavy as the battery cables to charge current back to battery.
Usually a 10 to 8g max when battery cables are 6-4.
Better higher capacity cables to batt and ground can certainly affect things though.
1970Maverick
Full Access Members
try a welding equipment shop, Batteries Plus+ , or Interstate Battery they should be able to make the cable any length with the lugs.
07navi
Full Access Members
I used to use arc welder cables on my fast cars years ago.
That's what we always used to buy for race cars. I think it was #2 or 0 welding cable.
jeff kushner
Full Access Members
I just came back to the thread cause I still couldn't get my head around a 750 piece of wire. Heck, talk about proprietary pricing! I'd expect something like that from Siemens or Trane, not Ford.
WELDING cable, there you go.....a 45 lb battery cable.....LOL....might be a bit overkill but the guys are right about a good ground.
jeff
WELDING cable, there you go.....a 45 lb battery cable.....LOL....might be a bit overkill but the guys are right about a good ground.
jeff
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