AC/Heater - Will rear AC/H operate if front heater core bypassed?

[SP-Divers]

97 EB front heater core bypassed by PO when core failed.

Will the rear heater and AC function properly if I reroute the coolant to the rear unit?



I bought this Expy to replace my 93 Exploder after the transmission let go towing my boat home from work six days before Christmas after 9 years of service. After looking around over the weekend I bought it on Christmas Eve for $1,250. It came with three 20 in rims and the stock 17in spare so I had to go to the salvage yard for a set of stock 16 in rims from a wrecked F-150 for $100. A new set of BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO Tires from Big-O set me back $1,050 and I was back to work.

She does need some work but she runs strong and there are no fluid leaks underneath. I'm not ready to pull the dash to replace the heater core but would like some heat/AC if I can get the rear unit operational.

The Blower blows and the door opens and closes when I turn the nob from cold to hot.

 

[splintrcel]

yes it will still work but fixing the front heater core really isn't that hard. It just takes some patience and maybe a friend to help with removing the dash assembly. I did it in a weekend in 6 to 8 hours. Heat works awesome afterwards so i think its worth it. But yes if the coolant just goes to the rear heater core it works just fine.

 

[SP-Divers]

Thanks for the reply. I had a hunch it would work, just wanted some hand holding before I go buy the hose disconnect tool, hose and clamps. I'll remove both T-Hoses and replace with straight hose until I pull the dash and replace the core.

The weather is what is preventing me from doing the core now.

I've watched a few dash removal youtubes and most of the posts regarding the procedure and it looks like the hardest part is keeping track of all the fasteners. I'm ordering the heater treater door to replace the stock one while I'm in there.

I painted the rims with flat black Rustolium and plan to PlastiDip the bumpers and trim this spring.

 

[splintrcel]

i am not gonna lie, i had some extra bolts after replacing my heater core. The real hard part is the electrical connectors. If and when you do it and you have problems with electrical feel free to message me cuz i have spent alot of time figuring out what connectors go where lol.

 

[hwy73]

Just remember, the front controls must be set to any on position to send power to the rear controls. So you will get cold air somewhere up front due to the dead front core. Maybe unplug the front blower, but air would still be force-fed through the system when the truck is moving.

 

[bedrck46]

a good idea when taking electricial connectors apart is to place something like post-it markers on each end of the connectors and pake them in a number order 1-1, 2-2, 3-3, etc then also make a note on paper as to the amount of connectors you disconnected and when you reconnect them cross them of your notes so you know you got them all

 

[splintrcel]

The only problem i had with electrical was the large connector underneath the center console. It was like a 2x2" connector with a bolt and turning the bolt didnt seem to do anything so i left it as is and as it turns out it did actually tighten the connector so when everything was back together i had no rear heat control and no CD player. Labeling the connectors though is a good idea, i will do that next time. My biggest worry was assembling the dash and finding out something doesn't right due to a missed connector.

 

[DB28704]

I think I am going to tackle the front core on mine pretty soon.
When it first failed I was in Savannah at school, and heat wasn't much of an issue at all.
Since then I'm back home in NC and it does get a bit colder. Heck, I don't even really care about heat that much, but defrost is another issue!
I was considering running just the back core but after reading this, I think I may just do the whole job.

Now, to get my rear wiper working.......lol.