ACTUATOR/BLEND DOOR LESSONS LEARNED FRONT AND REAR

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FordMafia

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I’ve done the rear blend door actuator in a 2nd generation EB. Learned a lot from the first install. Figured out I didn’t have to remove the rear seat and entire passenger side quarter panel cover to replace the replacement. I did drop my ratchet once, but was able to retrieve it by pulling it from under the bottom of the panel.
I watched this vid and essentially just copied him. Much better than a full removal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP5AZp8tLnY&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco
 
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FordMafia

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I did the nightmare driver actuator 2 years ago.

To make this work I had to use a saws-all with an extended blade and a mini hack-saw as well. Removed center console, cut out the ac ducting under the seats, cut strut on left of blend motor, cut off lower heat duct on passenger side, broke out motor. Once motor in it was time to band-aid this back together. Blend motor back in minus one screw, heat/ac vent to front passenger wheel well put together with epoxy, and rear-seat duct work but back together with duct-tape.

2 years later, it's making the same clicking again. I'm gonna leave it till I either sell the truck or it drives me nuts.
Well changing it this time around should be much easier since you've already made the path in there. I'm not sure about the epoxy part though, you might have to cut again. If you look at the pic I posted you'll see I only did a partial cut and kept the clip on the duct intact, so all I had to do was clip back on and I did wedge a piece of foam in there to stop any potential plastic rattling as I didn't glue or epoxy that duct work back in. That's all in reference to passenger footwell duct, I didn't touch the others.
2-4 hrs of working to change for 2 years of peace seems like a good deal to me. And cheaper than a new car lol.
 

1996Pwrstrk

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This might be a bit long but hopefully clear and easy to understand for anyone that may come by this. Feel free to add any corrections or your own experiences.
In total there are 5 actuators in the car:
FRONT:
1 driver temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1933
1 passenger temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1933
1 mode part# Motorcraft YH1881
REAR:
1 temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1856
1 mode part# Motorcraft YH1856

Easiest to change to most difficult imo:
1: Front mode door
- put your head by the gas pedal and look up should be right there, no need for panel removal. You could remove the gas pedal if you want just for ease

2: Rear mode door
- this is the one on top in the back. I'll link vids from youtube to make it clear. In my 2010 you can only choose mode by controlling temp meaning when you go to full hot it's always on feet and full cold is always on overhead vents. You could just rotate the door yourself to overhead and take this one out permanently so you can have heat or cold coming from the top. But to each their own.

3: Passenger temp blend door
- bunch of vids on this one online. It's mainly panel and stereo removal with one slightly annoying screw in the back.

4: Rear temp blend door
- this one is on the side in the back. 4th screw on here can go to hell. I only put the 2 front facing screws back on after installing new unit. It bothered the perfectionist in me, but the unit held tight to firm shakes and the panel itself should apply pressure to hold in place as well.

5: Driver blend door
- Difficulty level: I'll just roll the window down until I get to the stealership to buy a chevy

VIDEOS (same order as above):

1: No link for this, if you watch the passenger blend door one you'll know what the unit and it's red clip plug look like once you get your head in there and look up

2: If you only want to change the mode door watch this one:

The fordtechmakuloco vid is for a 2nd gen expedition with the older blend door version but it's a great guide. The other vid is the long way removal, I didn't do it but it helped me visualize everything in there. Also be careful with your clips for putting the biggest panel back flush under the window, mine were brittle and I found out the hard way. Superglue is the friend you wish you didn't need here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP5AZp8tLnY&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco

3:

4: Same links as 2

5: There's a lot out there. I haven't tackled this one yet but I'll link some vids I'm watching for research and visualization.
There's at least 5 more vids on youtube, I'm hoping to find a way to do it without cutting. Maybe I'll just take the loss and have a local auto shop do what fordtechmakuloco was talking about in the end of his vid as something he'd do for a customer

Primary Conclusion: wtf Ford
Secondary Conclusions:
- the first three doors are pretty easy and this is coming from someone who has never done stuff like this before a month ago
- the fourth door is trickier but still quite doable (remember to be nice to the clips when reinserting trim)
- the first four all I used was a cheap ratchet set and some amazon plastic trim removal kit that was max 7$
- door 5: refer to primary conclusion and I'll update if I have anything
Because of all this good info I was able to easily diagnose my problem and order the right part , mine was the mode door I just changed it out in about 10 mins no more clicking . Thank you ,this also bought me to the forum through a google search and I joined the forum.
 

sjwelds

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Seems like a good place to ask my question: on the driver's side the AC and heat work as expected. On the passenger side, however, I have not-so-cold AC and not-so-warm heat. So which actuator am I looking at here?
 

Jksimon

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I need help and this seems the right place to ask my question: I have a 2007 Expedition Limited.
I replaced the blower motor resistor and my fan blower is still running on high. I do have dual control temperature controls. I can't adjust the Fan speed and when I push the Off Button the fan speed goes even higher. I can't turn off the fan unless I turn off the ignition. I can adjust the temp and can get both heat and air, but it is on high only.
I have a click noise from behind the radio when I turn the key(assuming this is the brand actuator) and there is also a loud clicking from the rear actuator at the third row of seats.

So I think I need to replace the actuator located behind the radio and then the rear one next? Any other input would be helpful-thank you in advance for your kind reply.
 

Jo3shmoe

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Yeah the wipers were a very minor inconvenience. Now that I know that's just an annoying quirk it won't bother me. Before the windows I gott figure out my blower motor/resistor issue that I discovered now that all the actuators are good. Motorcraft parts are hard to come by so I'm leaning towards the Dorman resistor kit and an A-premium blower motor.
If you unplug the rain sensor mounted on your windshield (behind/underneath rear view mirror) the wiper switch defaults to standard settings. I'm currently trying to figure out why my 13 EL limited whistles when the fan is on the highest setting lol but somehow the turning on the recirculation stops it.
 

Herby

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This might be a bit long but hopefully clear and easy to understand for anyone that may come by this. Feel free to add any corrections or your own experiences.
In total there are 5 actuators in the car:
FRONT:
1 driver temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1933
1 passenger temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1933
1 mode part# Motorcraft YH1881
REAR:
1 temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1856
1 mode part# Motorcraft YH1856

Easiest to change to most difficult imo:
1: Front mode door
- put your head by the gas pedal and look up should be right there, no need for panel removal. You could remove the gas pedal if you want just for ease

2: Rear mode door
- this is the one on top in the back. I'll link vids from youtube to make it clear. In my 2010 you can only choose mode by controlling temp meaning when you go to full hot it's always on feet and full cold is always on overhead vents. You could just rotate the door yourself to overhead and take this one out permanently so you can have heat or cold coming from the top. But to each their own.

3: Passenger temp blend door
- bunch of vids on this one online. It's mainly panel and stereo removal with one slightly annoying screw in the back.

4: Rear temp blend door
- this one is on the side in the back. 4th screw on here can go to hell. I only put the 2 front facing screws back on after installing new unit. It bothered the perfectionist in me, but the unit held tight to firm shakes and the panel itself should apply pressure to hold in place as well.

5: Driver blend door
- Difficulty level: I'll just roll the window down until I get to the stealership to buy a chevy

VIDEOS (same order as above):

1: No link for this, if you watch the passenger blend door one you'll know what the unit and it's red clip plug look like once you get your head in there and look up

2: If you only want to change the mode door watch this one:

The fordtechmakuloco vid is for a 2nd gen expedition with the older blend door version but it's a great guide. The other vid is the long way removal, I didn't do it but it helped me visualize everything in there. Also be careful with your clips for putting the biggest panel back flush under the window, mine were brittle and I found out the hard way. Superglue is the friend you wish you didn't need here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP5AZp8tLnY&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco

3:

4: Same links as 2

5: There's a lot out there. I haven't tackled this one yet but I'll link some vids I'm watching for research and visualization.
There's at least 5 more vids on youtube, I'm hoping to find a way to do it without cutting. Maybe I'll just take the loss and have a local auto shop do what fordtechmakuloco was talking about in the end of his vid as something he'd do for a customer

Primary Conclusion: wtf Ford
Secondary Conclusions:
- the first three doors are pretty easy and this is coming from someone who has never done stuff like this before a month ago
- the fourth door is trickier but still quite doable (remember to be nice to the clips when reinserting trim)
- the first four all I used was a cheap ratchet set and some amazon plastic trim removal kit that was max 7$
- door 5: refer to primary conclusion and I'll update if I have anything
WELL DONE!!!!!
 

tacoduck

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Ok. So my 2016 expedition is blowing hot ass air on the driver side, regardless of temperature setting. Passenger side is normal. Which actuator is it? Its dual climate limited. Thanks so much, I just did a 2 hour Trip with heat on full freaking blast. Fml.
 
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