Dustin Gebhardt
Full Access Members
WAG = Wild A$$ Guess
ACTUATOR/BLEND DOOR LESSONS LEARNED FRONT AND REAR
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Sorry, Wild Ass Guess or WAG. Now ya know. Ground or ground failure can be a pia. Use to run into it with older Corvettes. They were fiberglass and tough to ground. Try getting a battery cable in the appropriate length, remove the battery lug and put on a ring connection. Go from body to frame or sub frame. Or if you can find the factory grounds and clean them. It may help.
I feel your pain messing with electrical stuff. I'm from the era when a test light was it.
What year is this beast?
sandbuster
Well-Known Member
FordMafia I got to say you got *****! I spent 25+ years as a Ford tech so I have an idea of what you went through - most folks probably would not tread there. My feeling is you can do anything on any vehicle if you have the patience to learn and, thanks to many Youtube providers, the knowledge is usually out there. Good job my man.
Stephen Dunster
Member
The wiper issue is automatic wiper function and normal operation. Ford engineers, in their infinite wisdom, did away with manual intermittent wiper operation if you have automatic wipers. Any of the intermittent settings just turn on automatic. The sensing unit to the right of the rearview mirror on the windshield watches for water drops and turns on wipers. I would like to have manual intermittent settings and auto, but it is what it is. Just figure out your windows and you're all set.
Yep, now I know lol. Woulda taken me a WAG to figure that one out lol. She's a 2010 Eddie Bauer Expedition. Tbh it's really minor and expected stuff going wrong for the age and mileage. 235,000 miles with religious oil changes and recently had the spark plugs and coils swapped out, had the suspension taken care of too, alternator went bad but swapped that, and a serpentine belt change. Plus it's never done any real towing work and I'd say at least 120k of the miles were done on cruise on the highway.
Thank you sir. I actually enjoyed it for the most part and youtube gave me a confidence I otherwise would not have had. And it depends on the person, project, tools they have, and time available. You won't catch me swapping internal engine components any time soon even with all the youtube vids I could want lol. Maybe later on a nonessential car and garage space lol.
Yeah the wipers were a very minor inconvenience. Now that I know that's just an annoying quirk it won't bother me. Before the windows I gott figure out my blower motor/resistor issue that I discovered now that all the actuators are good. Motorcraft parts are hard to come by so I'm leaning towards the Dorman resistor kit and an A-premium blower motor.
Seems like you have it down. Ya gotta know what ya don't know, then read watch and learn.
Ellison Brown III
Full Access Members
I’ve done the rear blend door actuator in a 2nd generation EB. Learned a lot from the first install. Figured out I didn’t have to remove the rear seat and entire passenger side quarter panel cover to replace the replacement. I did drop my ratchet once, but was able to retrieve it by pulling it from under the bottom of the panel.This might be a bit long but hopefully clear and easy to understand for anyone that may come by this. Feel free to add any corrections or your own experiences.
In total there are 5 actuators in the car:
FRONT:
1 driver temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1933
1 passenger temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1933
1 mode part# Motorcraft YH1881
REAR:
1 temp blend part# Motorcraft YH1856
1 mode part# Motorcraft YH1856
Easiest to change to most difficult imo:
1: Front mode door
- put your head by the gas pedal and look up should be right there, no need for panel removal. You could remove the gas pedal if you want just for ease
2: Rear mode door
- this is the one on top in the back. I'll link vids from youtube to make it clear. In my 2010 you can only choose mode by controlling temp meaning when you go to full hot it's always on feet and full cold is always on overhead vents. You could just rotate the door yourself to overhead and take this one out permanently so you can have heat or cold coming from the top. But to each their own.
3: Passenger temp blend door
- bunch of vids on this one online. It's mainly panel and stereo removal with one slightly annoying screw in the back.
4: Rear temp blend door
- this one is on the side in the back. 4th screw on here can go to hell. I only put the 2 front facing screws back on after installing new unit. It bothered the perfectionist in me, but the unit held tight to firm shakes and the panel itself should apply pressure to hold in place as well.
5: Driver blend door
- Difficulty level: I'll just roll the window down until I get to the stealership to buy a chevy
VIDEOS (same order as above):
1: No link for this, if you watch the passenger blend door one you'll know what the unit and it's red clip plug look like once you get your head in there and look up
2: If you only want to change the mode door watch this one:
2015 Ford Expedition Rear Mode Door Actuator Change.
Tips to changing a rear mode door actuator. My particular car was making a loud clicking noise and also blowing hot air in the third row seating whether the ...www.youtube.com
The fordtechmakuloco vid is for a 2nd gen expedition with the older blend door version but it's a great guide. The other vid is the long way removal, I didn't do it but it helped me visualize everything in there. Also be careful with your clips for putting the biggest panel back flush under the window, mine were brittle and I found out the hard way. Superglue is the friend you wish you didn't need here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP5AZp8tLnY&ab_channel=FordTechMakuloco
3:
Ford Expedition - TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT (2007 - 2014)
Step-by-step guide on how to remove / replace main temperature blend door actuator on Ford Expedition SUV. Clicking / Tapping noise when adjusting the temper...
Clicking Noise from Dash? No AC? Blend Door Actuator Replacement! 07 Expedition (Minute Maintenance)
In this video I respond to a viewer's question! The Viewer described having intermittent cold air in her 2007 Ford Expedition...even after spending $2500 on ...
4: Same links as 2
5: There's a lot out there. I haven't tackled this one yet but I'll link some vids I'm watching for research and visualization.
2011+ Ford F-150 Driver's Side Temperature Blend Door Actuator Replacement
This video shows the process to remove and replace the driver's side temperature blend door actuator in 2011-2014 F-150s, without removing the dash. To skip ...There's at least 5 more vids on youtube, I'm hoping to find a way to do it without cutting. Maybe I'll just take the loss and have a local auto shop do what fordtechmakuloco was talking about in the end of his vid as something he'd do for a customer
2009+ F150 Drivers Side Lower Temprature Blend Door Actuator Replacement Without Removing Dash
Here is the updated actuator I used, you can buy it here-http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAKGWNA/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeA...
Primary Conclusion: wtf Ford
Secondary Conclusions:
- the first three doors are pretty easy and this is coming from someone who has never done stuff like this before a month ago
- the fourth door is trickier but still quite doable (remember to be nice to the clips when reinserting trim)
- the first four all I used was a cheap ratchet set and some amazon plastic trim removal kit that was max 7$
- door 5: refer to primary conclusion and I'll update if I have anything
I did the nightmare driver actuator 2 years ago.
To make this work I had to use a saws-all with an extended blade and a mini hack-saw as well. Removed center console, cut out the ac ducting under the seats, cut strut on left of blend motor, cut off lower heat duct on passenger side, broke out motor. Once motor in it was time to band-aid this back together. Blend motor back in minus one screw, heat/ac vent to front passenger wheel well put together with epoxy, and rear-seat duct work but back together with duct-tape.
2 years later, it's making the same clicking again. I'm gonna leave it till I either sell the truck or it drives me nuts.
To make this work I had to use a saws-all with an extended blade and a mini hack-saw as well. Removed center console, cut out the ac ducting under the seats, cut strut on left of blend motor, cut off lower heat duct on passenger side, broke out motor. Once motor in it was time to band-aid this back together. Blend motor back in minus one screw, heat/ac vent to front passenger wheel well put together with epoxy, and rear-seat duct work but back together with duct-tape.
2 years later, it's making the same clicking again. I'm gonna leave it till I either sell the truck or it drives me nuts.
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