Another motor oil thread

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I bought a new 2015 Expediton Limited 4x4 with the 3.5L V-6 “Ecoboost” engine. The manual and oil filter cap specific 5W30 oil.

Twice, the selling dealer’s “factory trained technicians” changed my oil and filter (customer pay) and used 5W20 oil. When I realized it (via the invoice), I returned and spoke to the service advisor. He said his “guys” weren’t used to using 5W30 oil yet, as they had used 5W20 for so long. The technicians also overfilled the engine oil crankcase by two quarts one time.

I no longer go to that dealer for any service.

STS overfilled my old SUV, parked it out front, and told me it was ready to go. I started it, sat there for a few minutes, and could smell burning oil. I popped the hood and there was oil everywhere. The oil pressure got so high that it blew apart one of the fittings. STS left me sitting there another 2 hours, wiped the engine down with rags, and replaced the broken piece with some random clamp they had laying around the shop just so I could take it to my own mechanic. The manager then told me that if I wanted them to do anything more, I could take them to small claims. I do all my own oil changes these days.

 

[1955moose]

Who is this Sts you speak of? That's not only bad, that's off the charts. We've got to aware members of them, and stay away. Sorry, but that's beyond bad business practice. You sir need to get ahold of consumer affairs in your area, and advise them of this shoddy shop. They need to be aware.

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[ManUpOrShutUp]

Who is this Sts you speak of? That's not only bad, that's off the charts. We've got to aware members of them, and stay away. Sorry, but that's beyond bad business practice. You sir need to get ahold of consumer affairs in your area, and advise them of this shoddy shop. They need to be aware.

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They were one of the big tire retailers in the northeast and also did basic maintenance like Meineke, Midas,Jiffy Lube, etc. They were bought out by Mavis in 2015, who may actually be worse than STS.

 

[1955moose]

Anybody on the east coast, stay away from that shop! Thanks manup.

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[Machete]

UPDATE: Clarified motorcraft does offer a 5-30wt full synthetic motor oil. I am requesting it tomorrow. Will let eveyknow if any piston or chain lash at cold starts.

 

[JasonH]

Bobistheoilguy.com is a good resource for information on motor oil. To assess durability, it's best to get a used oil analysis. I generally use 10W-30 in all of my vehicles higher duty vehicles (Turbo, VCM, etc), because we don't get very low temperatures in the Houston area. For my naturally aspirated low mileage vehicles, I used 5W-30. I value the increased stability over any potential low temp flow improvement for more severe use. The narrower the viscosity range, the easier time the oil has staying within its proscribed range. I've never had an engine failure using this regimen.

The 5W-20 recommendation was made purely for fuel economy reasons, not engine longevity. Many manufacturers changed the recommendation in the middle of model years and I don't believe it accounts for oil dilution or severe duty driving. Honestly, I'm of the belief that most modern engines aren't going to suffer an oil related failure as long as a decent oil is used and changed timely. I tend to drive my cars until they fall apart, and I've only ever had problems with accessories and cooling. Never a problem with the engine itself, apart from leaks due to aging seals.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I bought a new 2015 Expediton Limited 4x4 with the 3.5L V-6 “Ecoboost” engine. The manual and oil filter cap specific 5W30 oil.

For many year 5W20 was THE standard oil on pretty much ALL ford products. Around 2015, the EcoBoost engines changed to 5W30.

To the OP, IMHO, using full synthetic over the Motorcraft "blend" is a waste of money.

If you are going to have the front and rear axle fluids changed stick with lube that meets ford specs form your model. DEMAND to see the specs of what they are putting in. As long as the lube meets the spec and you have a choice, go with full synthetic. This is one place where full synthetic DOES make a positive difference.

For your transfer case, ONLY USE THE MOTORCRAFT FLUID. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Machete]

FINAL: So all the lubricants changed yesterday, front diff, transfer case, rear diff, engine oil, also had the axle seals replaced.

I inspected all drive/gear components and the fluid. Here's what I saw:

Front Diff came out with some moisture. It was discolored but not ridiculous. Seems condensation caused moisture to blend into the oil. Boy was it thick! I poured from one plastic up into another and it was reeeeeeeal thick. All new motorcraft used.

Transfer case: Dark red, seemed dirty but not black. Motorcraft ATF used.

Rear diff: Looked the cleanest, brown and transparent (Ive changed several times) fixed the leak in the diff cover seal. Motorcraft plus friction reducer.

Engine oil: Dark brown, replaced w motorcraft 5-30 synthetic.

Did a Roadforce balance on all 4s. All is clean and fresh.

 

[Idahokid]

I use the motorcraft blend most of the time and a motorcraft filter.Ive noticed with some full synthetic oils I’m adding oil before I reach my 5000 miles.

 

[1955moose]

I do too using Mobil 1. Ironically, full synthetic is supposed to burn less due to the higher heat capability. Mine has a bit of head gasket leak though, so I'm sure it adds to the consumption.

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