Brake Line Blocking Caliper Bolt (Front Passenger)

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iridius

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I have been changing the rotors and brake pads on my 2001 Expedition 4x4 today I am on the final one which is the front passenger side and the brake line is blocking the Top torx/star Bolt that I need to loosen. Any ideas how to get to it.

Its a t45 size and on the driver side although it was tight my ratchet adapter fit, I tried using a screwdriver adapter with vice grips but they keep slipping. I already sprayed it with PB Blaster as well but still not budging.3d2963af7788be5a834a7ceac2d8e8b4.jpgc432fcdd5f3d0741d3aaa7f43a2b17e2.jpg28cf01817c01bdb8af983cf8a4f7c564.jpgfd82964436ad9c09040ca606a4489414.jpg

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98eb5.4

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i just bent the line outa the way enuff by hand, looks like a bit down from your pix,

i found the torx part cheezy & easy to strip, perhaps way more so if old rusty original,

vise grips right on the head work but chew it up,

you can get hex head replacements
 
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Big Brian

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take that torx bit and put a box end wrench the size of the hex on it instead of the vice grips

that would give you the clearance and the leverage

tweaking the line as mentioned would work too
 
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iridius

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Thanks guys. I think I'd need a size 6 box wrench, I'm still using Nd old duralast set and don't have that, I need to upgrade ;) I used an adjustable wrench amd it was way better than the vice grips thanks.

I still needed to bend the brake line some. I was doing this all in the dark with flashlight, but I got it done. All 4, went to go do the routine the instructions called "bedding" the brakes and.... one of the headlights I put in yesterday was out. SMH. I got those clear ones with bulbs in them off of Amazon and the cable connectors side locks kept breaking, hope it just needs electric tape. But one challenge at a time. Thanks all.

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iridius

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I know right. I NEED a full Snap-On set.... and a garage too ;)

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iridius

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no

all you need is a $20 set of wrenches
Darn it, I was about to explain to my wife why I needed that set up comma I guess I have to wait till I rebuild the transmission in her car or something :)

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SnuffThePunkz

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i just bent the line outa the way enuff by hand, looks like a bit down from your pix,

i found the torx part cheezy & easy to strip, perhaps way more so if old rusty original,

vise grips right on the head work but chew it up,

you can get hex head replacements


This, exactly this.

I've worked in enough shops over the years, and every single one would say the same thing. Just deflect it enough to get the bolt out without kinking it, and it is a problem that you solved for every future service. No point in wasting fluid/bleeding and creating more work for yourself, or damaging tools on something so minor.
 

MrXLT

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While I'm in the bending the line camp, I also think it's important to let that old fluid that's been sitting in your caliper bleed. When you clamp it back (I use a C clamp) to put new pads on, you're pushing all the very worst fluid in the system back up into the system.

If you're not into keeping up on flushing your brake fluid, etc then I suppose it isn't a big deal. I'm coming from the perspective that when I get a vehicle I plan on keeping it in top shape and in service as long as possible and you know what they say about an ounce of prevention.

And no, you don't need those overpriced Snap On tools. I suppose some of them work wonders for full time mechanics but for those of us doing this stuff in our driveways and on budgets regular tools are fine.

I changed many things with a $20 tool kit I bought from WalMart 20 yrs ago (probably equals $40 today) and I'm still using them. Of course you buy the extra tool when you need it but they're making the "cheap" ones so good now you don't need overpriced glorified stuff.
 
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iridius

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I appreciate the input about cleaning the fluid out, I was trying to justify replacing the calipers as one of them has a boot that store and there's this really cool red ones that are not that expensive on Amazon comma Plus for me learning how to do all these repairs and changes is fun and since I am on the road so much it gives me confidence that if something breaks while I'm out and about I can fix it. So, maybe I'll buy some calipers drain the entire brake fluid at some point in the future. Plus I agree I would never spend as much as they want for those fancy tools I'll be happy with a simple impact wrench so I can continue with my next project which is getting the bolt out of the front differential breaker bar didn't work. I drove about 500 miles yesterday and the brakes are working very well, thank you for all the help.

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jeff kushner

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I've always used a set of 440 Channel-locks and they get a good bite then remove! I had another truck that I used to use them on one of the bolts due to poor placement...was a PITA to use the tork bit on.

jeff
 
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iridius

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I've always used a set of 440 Channel-locks and they get a good bite then remove! I had another truck that I used to use them on one of the bolts due to poor placement...was a PITA to use the tork bit on.

jeff
You mean you used them to grip the torx bit, right?

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iridius

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i meant on the circular head of the torx bolt,

as mentioned tho, chews it uo
Cool. Can I just replace it with a normal bolt like the rear has? Why use torx in front instead anyway?

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98eb5.4

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they sell hex head bolt kits on ebay,

good bet way cheaper from a dedicated fasteners/nuts & bolts outfit but dunno what would be required spec wise for caliper use, tho doubt much
 

rjdelp7

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I had the same problem on passenger, rear caliper brake line. The rotor was stuck and I could not remove it. I had taken the truck, in for its, NY state inspection. The inspector, must of stood on the emergency brake pedal. That resulted in a sticking brakes. The emergency brake lever, was actually hitting the brake line, rubber covering. I carefully tweaked it, to clear it and manually pry the brakes off.
 
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