Broken exhaust manifold bolt

[Habbibie]

@mjhicks you lucky SOB yours doesnt even requires removal of the manifold, weld a 3/8" short bolt to it and use a 9/16" socket to remove it, if you dont have a welder dont make it any more complicated stop by a mechanic shop they'll weld one on for you for 10 bucks, 1000x easier than mine 3 of which broke inside the head the manifold has to come out and extract/drill those out anticipating none of the other ones brake in the process

 

[bobmbx]

Thank you all! Not enough bolt there to get ahold of it as it sits. I will try the Dremel slot method first, as it looks like getting to a couple of the nuts is going to be a PITA. (Rear top, front lower) I like the idea of welding a nut on, except 1) I have not welded since college 25+years ago, and 2) I don't own a welder. (Although it IS a great excuse!)
Not enough room to get a drill there to use an extractor. For right now, I'll have to put up with a tick I think. Sigh.

Did you try to remove the manifold to get more of the stud exposed? It should be long enough to double nut then.

 

[Boostedbus]

The beauty of using a mig welder is you just set wire speed and energy dial according to the chart on the inside of wire drum access door. It will show a metal thickness chart with wire size and gases you are using or no gas required for rosin core wire. Just set the dials and weld straight in the middle of stud straight out. The head is aluminum and the manifold is cast iron so no fear of weld them together. You could weld to the cast iron but you would have to preheat it red to make it take which you won’t be doing. You probably won’t even need an extractor afterwards, just vice grips. It really is pretty simple easy and tell the wife the cost of the welder is justified by the $$$ you saved by doing it yourself.

 

[Atman246]

Someone mentioned stainless hardware. Any kits out there for that?

 

[Trainmaster]

There are stainless kits on Rock Auto, but if you break a stainless one, you'll never drill it out.

But all the advice here seems great. You should be able to get that out rather easily without drilling, from what you've shown us.

If you have to drill the old one out, Milwaukee makes a small very cheap, battery operated Chinese right angle drill, which I bought online for $60. With that you can drill whatever you need on this job.

I bought the drill and the drilling fixture, though in the end all I needed was a stud remover, a Dremel and the hammer-on sockets

Don't be afraid to spend a few bucks here. What you save will be worth the money. Here in New York, they get $1800 to replace one manifold.

 

[mjp2]

Someone mentioned stainless hardware. Any kits out there for that?

There are stainless kits on Rock Auto, but if you break a stainless one, you'll never drill it out.

^that. High-temp anti-seize is a requirement during assembly.

 

[1955moose]

If Ford would have used anti sieze from the factory, our friend wouldn't be having this issue. But costs and time prevent it from ever happening.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Habbibie]

Before I installing stainless steel bolts you have to run a tap through the hole first to ensure all is well

 

[HawkX66]

I see a couple of guys that are recommending, "just pull out the rest of the studs". Not that easy.... You can make it a lot worse. I did this project on mine and a couple of the studs snapped off clean at the head. I couldn't get the mig welder in close enough. I ended up having to jack up one side of the motor and free hand drill them out. What a beeahtch... It ended up working out ok, but dang. If you can mig them, it's the way to go. The heat of the weld will help break them free.