Burning Oil

[maminaz]

Have a 2001 Expedition with 47K. Started burning oil, BAD, about 3K ago. Approx 1 qt every 1K now. A little blue/gray smoke on occasion when starting. Have extended warranty, but it does not cover wear/tear. Suggestions? THanks. I LOVE my Expeditiuon!

Marge

 

[maminaz]

Ok, feeling abandoned here. Someone emailed about maybe seals but no details. Any ideas? Thanks!

Marge

 

[jimboh247]

Sounds like valve seals. Does it smoke on acceleration? Take it to someone other than a dealer for a second opinion. Anybody else got any ideas?

 

[maminaz]

Have not noticed smoke during acceleration (but not to say it isn't happening), as I am looking forward usually....

I want to keep my SUV (love my car), but am terrified about expense to fix if we cannot work it with the extended warranty. Any and all ideas appreciated. Thank you much!!

Marge

 

[Guest]

My first guess would be you are losing oil somewhere which would mean a leak, and a leak of that magnatude would be easily seen if you look under the truck. For you to be burning that much you would most definately be seeing smoke from the exhaust, a lot of smoke. Can we get an update on your situation?

 

[maminaz]

Have still been adding about 1 qt oil every 1K. There is no visible leakage on floor. Some smoke when starting but not noticing anything while driving. No noises and oil pressure good. Am limiting driving. Don't want to take to a dealer because of the recordkeeping and am trying to figure out how we can use the extended warranty. Don't know a good mechanic in the PHX East Valley area.

 

[danketchpel]

There are only 4 ways to loose oil.

1. Leak to the outside - shows up somewhere outside the engine, on the undercarriage, on the ground, etc. I had this problem. My rear main crank seal was leaking and it showed up on the oil pan bolt heads. You do have to crawl under it and check for yourself, or get it up on a rack. You may need to do some cleaning and then recheck it to be sure where it's coming from.

2. Leak inside to the water jacket - shows up in the radiator water, usually a head gasket issue

3. Burn it due to bad rings - shows up on accelleration away from a stop.

4. Burn it due to bad valve guides/seals - shows up after coasting down a long hill with the overdrive locked out (engine braking) and when you hit the gas at the bottom of the hill you get smoke

You should be able to detirmine the problem based on these tests. How much it costs depends on which one it turns out to be. It shouldn't be that hard to find, 1qt per 1k miles is a lot. If you're burning it the tailpipe will have a dark oily residue instead of being dry.

 

[maminaz]

Thank you! We will give these all a test and report back!
Marge

 

[greg92054]

I have a 2001 Expedition with 49K miles that is burning around 2 quarts every 3K miles. I took it to the dealer and they checked the sparkplugs, exhaust path, and compression for signs of burning oil, all looked good. It does not leak a drop of oil. The dealership called Ford’s hot line and was told by Ford that for this engine it is ok for it to burn a quart of oil every 900 miles. The dealer ship checked the Ford service manual and there it was printed in the specification. I am requesting a copy of the spec out of the shop manual so when my catalytic converter fails I can point to the reason.

So it would seem that if you are burning a quart every 1K then it is still within Ford specs! Just thought I would pass that along.

 

[maminaz]

Greg, Thanks for the tip. We will check that out. Insane isn't it?

 

[Guest]

I'd love to know what you have found out regarding this oil burning issue. Any updates?:"

 

[coryrhonda]

check pcv valve and hose on it, have had a few hoses turn mush but don't think that much oil. Have had many 5.4 L. leak oil on back of right cylinder head and drip onto the exhaust pipe and never hit the ground. Ford has a TSB on this and say it could happen on right head back corner and left head front corner because of metal chip on the deck surface when cylinder head was installed at the factory.

 

[maminaz]

We were burning a quart every 500+ miles. Last oil change they talked us into a pricier oil. 750 miles later not a drop has burned. Talked to dealer and they acknowledged the burning oil problem for '01. Also recommended pricey oil as a partial solution. Still going to check levels every gas fillup to be safe.

 

[monsta]

The best way to check the condition of your rings and/or valve seals is to do leakdown & compression test.

If it is not leaking oil on the ground then only these test will reveal where the oil is going or should I say, HOW it is going out.

 

[stang99x]

Its no big deal. My 98 Nav burns about 2 quarts every 3000 miles. If the previous owner of you vehicle didn't change the oil every 3K miles, then it will burn excessive oil. I don't know why, Ican't tell you why, but I see it everyday and it happens on my car as well. I have put 22000 miles on it burning 2 quarts every 3K miles and never had an issue, no smoke and no leaks

 

[John15016]

Who would have thought it? "Authorized to burn a qt. of oil every 900 miles! I was just now searching for just such an answer to oil "disappearing" from my 99'.
We bought it used a couple of years ago and of course the previous owner did not mention it.
Thanks for the info, and will carry a 6-pack (oil, of course ), in the back.

Regards

 

[Bedrck47]

copied from the 2001 Ford Service Manual

Oil Consumption Test

The following diagnostic procedure is used to determine the source of excessive internal oil consumption.

1. NOTE: Oil use is normally greater during the first 16,100 km (10,000 miles) of service. As mileage increases, oil use generally decreases. Vehicles in normal service should get at least 1,450 km per liter (900 miles per quart) after 16,000 km (10,000 miles) of service. High speed driving, towing, high ambient temperature and other factors may result in greater oil use.

Define excessive oil consumption, such as the number of miles driven per liter (quart) of oil used. Also determine customer's driving habits, such as sustained high speed operation, towing, extended idle and other considerations.

2.Verify that the engine has no external oil leak as described under Engine Oil Leaks in the Diagnosis and Testing portion of this section.

3. Verify that the engine has the correct oil level dipstick (6750).

4. Verify that the engine is not being run in an overfilled condition. Check the oil level at least five minutes after a hot shutdown with the vehicle parked on a level surface. In no case should the level be above MAX or the letter F in FULL. If significantly overfilled, carry out Steps 6a through 6d.

5. Verify the spark plugs are not oil saturated. If the spark plugs are oil saturated and compression is good it can be assumed the valve seals or valve guides are at fault.

6. Carry out an oil consumption test:

a.Drain the engine oil, remove the oil bypass filter (6714) and refill with one liter (quart) less than the recommended amount.

b. Run the engine for three minutes (10 minutes if cold), and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes with the vehicle on a level surface.

c. Remove oil level dipstick and wipe clean. (Do not wipe with anything contaminated with silicone compounds.) Reinstall the oil level dipstick, being sure to seat it firmly in the oil level indicator tube (6754). Remove the oil level dipstick and draw a mark on the back (unmarked) surface at the indicated oil level. This level should be about the same as the MIN or ADD mark on the face of the oil level dipstick.

d. Add one liter (quart) of oil. Restart the engine and allow to idle for at least two minutes. Shut off the engine and allow the oil to drain back for at least five minutes. Mark the oil level dipstick, using the procedure above.

e. Record the vehicle mileage.

f. Instruct the customer to drive the vehicle as usual and perform the following:
Check the oil level regularly at intervals of 160 to 240 km (100-150 miles).
Return to the service point when the oil level drops below the lower (MIN or ADD) mark on the oil level dipstick.
Add only full liters (quarts) of the same oil in an emergency. Note the mileage at which the oil is added.

g. Check the oil level under the same conditions and at the same location as in Steps 6c and 6d.
Measure the distance from the oil level to the UPPER mark on the oil level dipstick and record.
Measure the distance between the two scribe marks and record.
Divide the first measurement by the second.
Divide the distance driven during the oil test by the result. This quantity is the approximate oil consumption rate in kilometers per liter or in miles per quart.

h. If the oil consumption rate is unacceptable, go to Step 7.

7. Check the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Make sure the system is not plugged.

8. Check for plugged oil drain-back holes in the cylinder heads and cylinder block.

9. If the condition still exists after performing the above steps, go to Step 10.

10. Perform a cylinder compression test or perform a cylinder leak detection test with Engine Cylinder Leak Detection/Air Pressurization Kit. This can help determine the source of oil consumption such as valves, piston rings or other areas.

11. NOTE: After determining if new parts should be installed, make sure correct parts are used.

Check valve guides for excessive guide clearance. Install new all valve stem seals (6571) after verifying valve guide clearance.

12.Worn or damaged internal engine components can cause excessive oil consumption. Small deposits of oil on the tips of spark plugs can be a clue to internal oil consumption. If internal oil consumption still persists, proceed as follows:

a. Remove the engine from the vehicle and place it on an engine work stand. Remove the intake manifolds (9424), cylinder heads, oil pan (6675) and oil pump (6600).

b. Check piston ring clearance, ring gap and ring orientation. Repair as necessary.

c. Check for excessive bearing clearance. Repair as necessary.

13. Repeat the oil consumption test (Step 6) to confirm the oil consumption concern has been resolved.