buying another..?

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OCbloke

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ok so thinking of buying a 2012 Limited expedition- any pointers that I should be looking for? Not driven one since selling my old one which was a 2003 eddie bauer.
found one with 23k miles in decent condition (from pictures) but would like to hear if there are any maintenance costs that I should be aware of.
Many thanks.
 

k9education

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I did a lot of research on the 3rd gens before buying one and from 2009-Present I couldn't find anything significant in terms of reported mechanical problems. The main issue is the completely inevitable bubbling paint on the hood, roof, and tailgate .

Second to that is the failing of the various non-essentials on these vehicles. e.g. power running boards, climate controlled seats, power windows motors, etc. At 85K I've already had both power running board assemblies replaced at a total cost of $3800 for parts alone. The assemblies are even $800 at a junkyard - and that's the low end of what they run for. If I had not had a warranty I would have just swapped them out for a set of fixed running board. Westin makes a lighted set that runs for ~$350 for the pair. The previous owner had the driver side power window motor replaced - just as I did on my previous Ford vehicle. Also true to Ford, I've had problems with the climate control components. I think my control panel needs to replaced for one. I also have an ongoing issue with the climate controlled seats. A burned out relay and harness were already replaced and the problem persists (heating/cooling won't stay on).

So overall, I think they are solid, reliable vehicles, but be prepared to deal with a lot of issues with the addons.
 
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OCbloke

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thank you for the feedback. The vehicle I am looking at does not come with any warranty - is this something that I should consider buying (not sure from whom though)
 

k9education

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thank you for the feedback. The vehicle I am looking at does not come with any warranty - is this something that I should consider buying (not sure from whom though)

I've got a Ford CPO warranty and it's been nothing but a nightmare. They employ the "delay, deny, defend" method every time you walk through the door. Deny the problem exists. Once they finally acknowledge it exists, delay the process to get it repaired. When you object, defend the actions that resulted in a simple repair taking many months to complete.

All of that said, I knew going in that warranties are designed to benefit the seller, not the buyer. I paid $800 for the CPO only because I knew it would require them to replace all 4 tires at the time of sale, which run about $800 for the set. Thus, I was already even when I started out and I figured anything repaired beyond that was a bonus. They tried to weasel out of replacing them of course, but I referred them to the terms of the CPO, showed them the actual remaining tread using a tread depth gauge, and told them I would not accept delivery until there were 4 new tires on the vehicle.

Personally, I think you're better off pocketing that extra money that the warranty would cost you and saving in just in case something needs to be repaired. The exception would be if you see something that the vehicle needs right now that would unambiguously be covered by the warranty. Then you may want to weigh the cost of repairing/replacing that item (or items) versus the cost of the warranty.

Just be sure to test everything before signing the papers. Check the power running boards and make sure they aren't deploying very slowly or making any sickly groans or whines, as these are signs that they are on their way out. Make sure every button on the control panels functions and does what they should. Test the AC and heat. Test the steering wheel controls. Test the rear hatch. Climb up on the running boards and check the roof for rust. You're likely to find some, but determine whether the amount makes you want to walk away or use it as a bargaining tool. Check under the hood and at the tailgate for bubbling as well.
 
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