Clicking sound from behind the dash

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Triplet Dad

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I'm glad to hear they are honoring the warranty but what a PIA to have to change it again.

Luckily this is the one by the gas pedal and only takes about 10 minutes to replace. Right now I adjusted the direction by hand and left the actuator out...it's nice to not hear the grinding every time I start the engine. I will take another photo of the good actuator once I get it.
 

nubia

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Where is the fuse so I can try to re-set/calibrate?

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Bernard

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OK... there are some gremlins inside my A/C:(.
Had the clicking for several years now, when I change the temp.
Once I took it apart and saw some teeth broke but didn't want to wait for the replacement, with everything dissembled, so I tried the reversed "shaft" method - didn't work... was still clicking.

Any ways.
The blower connector gave up completely so at the same opportunity that I replaced the connector (and the resistor), I decided to replace the temp blend motor.

Got a new replacement actuator and installed it - then things got... interesting:(.

The clicking are there... at the highest and lowest temp.
I disconnected the actuator I just installed and... it still clicks!!! With no power!
The air blowing temp did not change but I could feel the clicks from somewhere around the temp actuator, when I "went" from cold to hot... It clicks only close to the max hot/cold.
I disconnected the left side (driver side) actuator (never clicked when changed the air flow direction up/middle/down) - still clicking from the same place.

No power to both actuators and still clicking.

What next - the actuator on the right side?
But I think I can "feel" the clicks on the middle.
Does the right side actuator has anything to do with the temp changes?


Any advice?


Thanks,
Bernard.
 

vintageman

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New member here and first post on this forum. I just traded in my 2010 Expedition and picked up a 2014 EL Limited but had the clicking noise behind the dash issue. The actuator that was replaced was readily accessible by removing the radio then looking toward the right side. With my vehicle, I had originally had it in at the dealership because it would blow hot air through all the vents (when on heat) but only put out cold air on the front passenger side. No adjustments were able to be made on that side for floor, vent, or defog. Dealership replaced the part, worked great until the following winter when the same thing happened. I took it apart to find out that the service mechanic had only put one of the mounting bolts back in, the one on the back is harder to get to so he left it out. I found a bolt that fit and installed it, no more clicking and no more issues. Whole process took about 20 minutes or so to fix.
 

ExpeditionAndy

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New member here and first post on this forum. I just traded in my 2010 Expedition and picked up a 2014 EL Limited but had the clicking noise behind the dash issue. The actuator that was replaced was readily accessible by removing the radio then looking toward the right side. With my vehicle, I had originally had it in at the dealership because it would blow hot air through all the vents (when on heat) but only put out cold air on the front passenger side. No adjustments were able to be made on that side for floor, vent, or defog. Dealership replaced the part, worked great until the following winter when the same thing happened. I took it apart to find out that the service mechanic had only put one of the mounting bolts back in, the one on the back is harder to get to so he left it out. I found a bolt that fit and installed it, no more clicking and no more issues. Whole process took about 20 minutes or so to fix.
Welcome to the forum! Thanks for the tip.
 

Bernard

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New member here and first post on this forum. I just traded in my 2010 Expedition and picked up a 2014 EL Limited but had the clicking noise behind the dash issue. The actuator that was replaced was readily accessible by removing the radio then looking toward the right side. With my vehicle, I had originally had it in at the dealership because it would blow hot air through all the vents (when on heat) but only put out cold air on the front passenger side. No adjustments were able to be made on that side for floor, vent, or defog. Dealership replaced the part, worked great until the following winter when the same thing happened. I took it apart to find out that the service mechanic had only put one of the mounting bolts back in, the one on the back is harder to get to so he left it out. I found a bolt that fit and installed it, no more clicking and no more issues. Whole process took about 20 minutes or so to fix.

Thanks.

I put all the 2 screws back in and tighten it.
But I will give it a try and double check/tight.

Bernard.
 

nubia

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This is a very easy job. I installed one myself in 25 minutes. I bought the part using the OP's link on Amazon... Much appreciated and it works flawlessly

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dand

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1000 miles from home and developed the blend door problem. This 2nd time for this 10 xpdtn now at 106xxx miles. Its in cold position, can I expect it to remain there til I get home in 7 days.

Does anyone know if this design flaw is fixed in the 2018's. May rethink up coming trade if not fixed.
 

Denethor

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1000 miles from home and developed the blend door problem. This 2nd time for this 10 xpdtn now at 106xxx miles. Its in cold position, can I expect it to remain there til I get home in 7 days.

Does anyone know if this design flaw is fixed in the 2018's. May rethink up coming trade if not fixed.
If you don't move the blend door dial, then there is no call for it to move.
 

star-art

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I keep wondering when some alert lawyer is going to start a Class Action suit over this. All they had to do was install "limit" switches on either end of the travel and this problem could easily have been solved. Instead, because there are no switches, the software goes through a "calibration" routine that caused premature wear and failure. Ford then redesigned these actuators because they weren't heavy-duty enough to survive calibration and the gears kept wearing out. Now, the newer ones are a bit more "robust" to survive calibration, but the carbon "tracks" that help it determine its position are failing!

This is unacceptable on a part that can only be replaced by pulling the entire dash out (or by going through some excruciating workaround to get to it without resorting to taking the dash out).
 

Dannyboy11222

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I know this is a really old post buuuut!
I need to replace my hot to cold actuator for the driver side of my 2011 exp limited, yes the one behind the dash.
is there an easier way to remove the bad one without to much hastle?
Ty for any help!
 

Fasttimes

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Resurrecting this old thread. I've got the popping noise behind my dash and after doing my homework I assumed it was the blend-door actuator motor that you can find youtube videos all over the place to replace simple enough. But, now that I have the old part out and I started the car with no actuator in place I still hear the popping and it seems to come from where this new actuator will install. Is this a different diverter or part? Sounds like gears that are popping.

What is the part this issue is related to? Is this the repair that requires the entire dash to be removed?
 

Fasttimes

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Took some pics and video. The clicking happens at two points, when you start the vehicle and if you go from hot-to cold setting on the driver side temperature control. I can feel the clicking through the black device where the blend motor attaches, but seems to be a secondary motor?

Ok, this site will not let me upload iPhone videos, but the image is there.

image0.jpeg
 

star-art

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Providing the year, make, and specific model of your truck will help people advise you better.

It sounds like you have dual-zone climate control that's standard on Eddie Bauer, XLT Premium, Limited, King Ranch, Platinum, and some newer XLT trucks with the 202a package. If so, then you have not one but TWO blend door actuators that can fail. The one for the passenger side temperature control is on top of the HVAC plenum and so it's easy to access and replace. Unfortunately, the one for the driver's side control is on the bottom of the plenum crammed up against other parts such that the bolts are inaccessible. As a result, it's a nightmare to access without pulling the dash out.
 

Fasttimes

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Yep, forgot about that. 2010 Eddie Bauer Expy. After more investigation I'm pretty sure as you say its the dreaded actuator buried down deep. I've watch all the videos I can on the various "hack" jobs you can do but not sure if I'm willing to do that.

I guess I'll reach out to my local dealers see if any of them will give a deal on the job and try to get it done <$1k or I just may live with it for now. For me it's just an annoyance of noise, we use AC 99% of the time and the only "issue" with this broken is not being able to divert heat to our feet. We'll live. I guess my only concern is when going to sell it.
 

star-art

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My old 2009 XLT (not dual-zone) started "clicking" not long after I got it. It would click for a few seconds when I first started the truck and whenever I moved the temp control to full cold. This sounds a lot like what yours is doing.

I discovered that if I moved it to the point where it started clicking but then quickly backed off a bit, the clicking stopped. Luckily I could still get it to change temperature. It just would not go all the way to full cold. Even so, I was worried it might quit working altogether and get "stuck" somewhere else in the temperature range.

Back then, I didn't know the blend door actuator (BDA) for trucks without dual-zone was an easy fix. I was used to other Ford vehicles where it was a nightmare like the driver's side on dual-zone Expeditions.
 

jay0555

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I have this same issue. I have changed the one behind the radio and the one near the driver's gas pedal. Does anyone have the part number and video to the 3rd one behind the console? I have a 2011 Expy EL 5.4L V8. 154K
 

Dannyboy11222

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Thats it, there's only two up in the dash, the third is in the rear right side panel... That controls the temp in the back...

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