truckdriver
New Member
If I push the connecting rod cap and bearing onto the crankshaft it pinches hard on the sides and clamps on firmly by itself without bolting. When I let go with or without oil it won't drop. When I bolt it up the crank won't turn with oil and after being polished.
I bought new factory sized bearings for my mom's 5.4 Triton because it was knocking horribly at the oil pan.
I got the front axle out of the way after some struggle and finally dropped the pan and some of the rods would slide side to side but none knocked freely up and down.
I removed the first two caps and found scoring and scratching on both bearings but not too deep.
I replaced both sets of bearings and bolted them up to 32 ft lbs first stage and another 105 degrees second stage. The crank would not turn after with them bolted in. I took them off and the crank turns freely.
I found no coolant in the reservoir and it's rust red on the inside indicating that she knew it had been losing coolant and using hose water to refill it. I also found a bottle of coolant repair additive in the trunk.
She swears she always kept up with the fluids which is clearly not true. So I assume she overheated this engine more than once.
Is it likely that the rods are warped and or egg shaped now so they won't connect to the shaft? I tried a second set of bearings from a different company and they were exactly the same. It clamped to the crank with zero tolerance.
I tried the next 2 bearings in line to be sure and it was exactly the same. I could not turn the crank with just those two cranked to torque.
She is going to have to scrap this clearly but I'm going to have to rig it up to get her to the next car.
I'm just experimenting with the motor at this point since she doesn't have the money to get it fixed and neither do I. She needs to get a few more miles out of it. So I'm just trying to get them to turn. It looks like shoestring and high grit sandpaper from here.
I bought new factory sized bearings for my mom's 5.4 Triton because it was knocking horribly at the oil pan.
I got the front axle out of the way after some struggle and finally dropped the pan and some of the rods would slide side to side but none knocked freely up and down.
I removed the first two caps and found scoring and scratching on both bearings but not too deep.
I replaced both sets of bearings and bolted them up to 32 ft lbs first stage and another 105 degrees second stage. The crank would not turn after with them bolted in. I took them off and the crank turns freely.
I found no coolant in the reservoir and it's rust red on the inside indicating that she knew it had been losing coolant and using hose water to refill it. I also found a bottle of coolant repair additive in the trunk.
She swears she always kept up with the fluids which is clearly not true. So I assume she overheated this engine more than once.
Is it likely that the rods are warped and or egg shaped now so they won't connect to the shaft? I tried a second set of bearings from a different company and they were exactly the same. It clamped to the crank with zero tolerance.
I tried the next 2 bearings in line to be sure and it was exactly the same. I could not turn the crank with just those two cranked to torque.
She is going to have to scrap this clearly but I'm going to have to rig it up to get her to the next car.
I'm just experimenting with the motor at this point since she doesn't have the money to get it fixed and neither do I. She needs to get a few more miles out of it. So I'm just trying to get them to turn. It looks like shoestring and high grit sandpaper from here.
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