Cranking Issues

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Bummy2V

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Hey new member here. I have a 2003 ford expedition eddie bauer and im having very hard cranking issues on start up when hot. I just got the vehicle a few months ago. I noticed this issue after I had bought it. I noticed when cold, it starts up right away, but after it warming up and it sits for a few it struggles to the point it sounds like its not going to start and sometimes it sounds like it's going to bog off when it's starting super rough. After its on there is no issues whatsoever it runs perfect. I have replaced the starter, alternator, battery. It then blew the radiator I replaced it and started having misfire in cylinder 3. I replaced all the spark plugs and no more issues with misfire. I dont belive its an electrical issue, I believe it could be a fuel or crank position sensor. Anyone have this issue before and can point me in the right directions please and thank you.
 

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You can replace the fuel filter if you haven't already. Is it "cranking" Ok? Just slow to start ? Or is it not "cranking" (turning over...) very quickly like it should with a new battery?
How many miles on it ? There's a Schrader valve up on the passenger side of the fuel rail, you can do a fuel pressure test there. See what kind of fuel pressure you're getting when you just turn the key to ON, and then during starting. Make sure the fuel rail retains some fuel pressure after you turn the key OFF and doesn't drop to zero. If the Expy still has the stock fusebox in it, they are prone to frying the fuel pump micro relay that's soldered to the fusebox circuit board. Also cooking the PCM relay in the top right hand corner of the fusebox. This will give you a No Crank / No Start condition and you may hear it clicking from that area.


To release the fuel lines from the filter just depress the blue buttons on the quick releases....

FG1063-FRO__ra_p.jpg



Motorcraft FG1063 Fuel Filter on Amazon


Fuel Pressure Test Gauge on Amazon






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Bummy2V

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You can replace the fuel filter if you haven't already. Is it "cranking" Ok? Just slow to start ? Or is it not "cranking" (turning over...) very quickly like it should with a new battery?
How many miles on it ? There's a Schrader valve up on the passenger side of the fuel rail, you can do a fuel pressure test there. See what kind of fuel pressure you're getting when you just turn the key to ON, and then during starting. Make sure the fuel rail retains some fuel pressure after you turn the key OFF and doesn't drop to zero. If the Expy still has the stock fusebox in it, they are prone to frying the fuel pump micro relay that's soldered to the fusebox circuit board. Also cooking the PCM relay in the top right hand corner of the fusebox. This will give you a No Crank / No Start condition and you may hear it clicking from that area.


To release the fuel lines from the filter just depress the blue buttons on the quick releases....

View attachment 74317



Motorcraft FG1063 Fuel Filter on Amazon


Fuel Pressure Test Gauge on Amazon






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So it cranks but struggles to turn on and sometimes takes a while cranking for it to turn on especially when hot. It has a very hard start and sounds like its going to bog out, but once it gets going there is no issue at all. So what happens when it gets hot and sits for about 5 minutes, it cranks, it cranks, it cranks, it cranks, it cranks for about 7-8 seconds then it bogs like if it wants shut off, RPM's are really low then it slowly goes up to normal RPM and there's no issue after that. It has 150k miles on it. I have been wanting to check the fuel pressure but have not had the time. I will replace the fuel filter this weekend. I did think it could have been the fuel pump relay but they say when it goes bad it completely shuts off and doesn't start. I will buy a fuel pressure Gauge and test it out this weekend. Depending on the psi I get what could be wrong the fuel pump? Anything else? Thank you very much for replying!
 

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If it's the original fuel pump, they just wear out. 20 years old and 150k miles is a good life for them. You'll probably find that the check valve in the fuel pump is going bad and it's losing it's fuel prime once you turn off the key. Try a new fuel filter, but it'll probably end up being the fuel pump itself. You should see 45-55 psi of fuel pressure up at the fuel rail with the key on and engine not running. It should hold at least 25 psi in the fuel rail after you turn the key off. That's the fuel prime to give you a quick start each time. In the mean time you can cycle the key on and off a few times before you actually crank it, to re-prime the fuel rail and give you a quicker start. Until you can replace the fuel pump.





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Bummy2V

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If it's the original fuel pump, they just wear out. 20 years old and 150k miles is a good life for them. You'll probably find that the check valve in the fuel pump is going bad and it's losing it's fuel prime once you turn off the key. Try a new fuel filter, but it'll probably end up being the fuel pump itself. You should see 45-55 psi of fuel pressure up at the fuel rail with the key on and engine not running. It should hold at least 25 psi in the fuel rail after you turn the key off. That's the fuel prime to give you a quick start each time. In the mean time you can cycle the key on and off a few times before you actually crank it, to re-prime the fuel rail and give you a quicker start. Until you can replace the fuel pump.





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Hey bro so I just replaced the fuel filter, knew it wasn't going to solve the issue but im sure it needed to be replaced. Do you know if the fuel pressure regulator is located in the fuel pump?
 
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Bummy2V

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If it's the original fuel pump, they just wear out. 20 years old and 150k miles is a good life for them. You'll probably find that the check valve in the fuel pump is going bad and it's losing it's fuel prime once you turn off the key. Try a new fuel filter, but it'll probably end up being the fuel pump itself. You should see 45-55 psi of fuel pressure up at the fuel rail with the key on and engine not running. It should hold at least 25 psi in the fuel rail after you turn the key off. That's the fuel prime to give you a quick start each time. In the mean time you can cycle the key on and off a few times before you actually crank it, to re-prime the fuel rail and give you a quicker start. Until you can replace the fuel pump.





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Never mind I found it on the driver side fuel rails. Im going to replace it aswell hopefully that solved it dont want to spend 300+ on a new pump lol
 
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Bummy2V

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If it's the original fuel pump, they just wear out. 20 years old and 150k miles is a good life for them. You'll probably find that the check valve in the fuel pump is going bad and it's losing it's fuel prime once you turn off the key. Try a new fuel filter, but it'll probably end up being the fuel pump itself. You should see 45-55 psi of fuel pressure up at the fuel rail with the key on and engine not running. It should hold at least 25 psi in the fuel rail after you turn the key off. That's the fuel prime to give you a quick start each time. In the mean time you can cycle the key on and off a few times before you actually crank it, to re-prime the fuel rail and give you a quicker start. Until you can replace the fuel pump.





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So I ran into a little problem. So my FPR is on my fuel rails. I came to autozone to buy a new one and it says in their system that its not serviceable comes with fuel pump. So how will I go about finding a new one thats the right one and a fuel pump aswell. I have the early model 2003 eddie bauer. Would a 2002 FPR and Fuel Pump work on mine?
 

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Hamfisted

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That small one on the fuel rail is a pressure damper, but not the actual pressure "regulator" for the fuel system ( it's retained by a big snap ring....). The actual pressure regulator is in fact part of the fuel pump assembly, but external to the fuel pump. If you look at the fuel pump assembly you'll see the lines passing through it.

Fuel Pumps at Rock Auto

FG0860B__ra_p.jpg



Fuel Rail Dampener at Rock Auto

FPD21_Front__ra_p.jpg



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Bummy2V

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That small one on the fuel rail is a pressure damper, but not the actual pressure "regulator" for the fuel system. The actual pressure regulator is in fact part of the fuel pump assembly, but external to the fuel pump. If you look at the fuel pump assembly you'll see the lines passing through it.



View attachment 74380







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Ahhh ok I see, then thats the next thing. That should solve my problem. Man almost 400 for a new pump. Gonna probably replace it in a week or 2
 
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Bummy2V

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That small one on the fuel rail is a pressure damper, but not the actual pressure "regulator" for the fuel system ( it's retained by a big snap ring....). The actual pressure regulator is in fact part of the fuel pump assembly, but external to the fuel pump. If you look at the fuel pump assembly you'll see the lines passing through it.

Fuel Pumps at Rock Auto

View attachment 74380



Fuel Rail Dampener at Rock Auto

View attachment 74381



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Any tips on removing the gas tank and fuel pump? 1st time doing it lol
 
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