Differential suggestions

[ediddily]

Is a lsd function the same as a locking diff?
I have a lsd in my expedition but acts like an open diff when stuck spinning one wheel and never getting traction. It could be that its plates are worn out.
So I'm thinking of putting a Detroit locker in.
Would that be too much?
I do drive in snow in the winter with occasional offroad in the dry seasons.

 

[FlyBry]

My 2010 EL with HD Tow had the 3.73 LSD, but only 1 tire would spin when on dry pavement. In the dirt, or wet streets, both rear tires would spin.
The Detroit Locker is Eaton's highest torque demand locking differential. Run them in many of my classic muscle cars, they are bullet proof, but noisy on the street in tight turning situations. Some people like the inside tire chirping when pulling into a parking space, tells everyone you have a serious locker.
Another possibility is an E-locker = you chose when you want it locked.

 

[Boostedbus]

A Detroit Locker will unlock while cornering as long as you aren’t on the gas applying torque but you will feel and probably hear it ratchet while unlocking. Your limited slip differential unlocks and slips on clutches when put on a bind like cornering or when one wheel has way less resistance than the other side like one on dry pavement while the other is on slippery mud. Sometimes you can apply your parking brake a couple clicks to even out the resistance to get both wheels to grab. I had a locker in my muscle car but have since installed a full spool with a different ratio and it chirps/hops in corners on or off the gas. A spool is mechanically locked at all times unless it’s broken in half.

 

[ediddily]

Im just sick and tired of getting stuck in dumb areas that I shouldn't be stuck in and want to eliminate getting stuck once and for all. I know the locker would fix that, but would detroit truetrac helical lsd be a good choice? Im in serious need of an adult on this, someone just tell me what to do!
I also will be towing a travel trailer occasionally. Will that make a difference?

 

[Boostedbus]

I’d check out an electric or air locker which you would be able to engage on you own when needed. A regular Detroit locker is fine on an old muscle car because most of us don’t take those cars out in bad wet or snowy weather. It could be a handful in the corners on slick roads constantly stepping out fishtailing under any throttle not to mention the front push (meaning it doesn’t want to turn) a locked rear also creates.

 

[FlyBry]

Yes, that diff will certainly work. As will a Torsen https://torsen.com/
A winch is also a good idea.

 

[Boostedbus]

New clutches and the E-brake trick might work with what you already have for those rare cases you need that extra traction.

 

[JExpedition07]

Put her in 4A and roll lol

 

[mjp2]

Im just sick and tired of getting stuck in dumb areas that I shouldn't be stuck in and want to eliminate getting stuck once and for all. I know the locker would fix that, but would detroit truetrac helical lsd be a good choice? Im in serious need of an adult on this, someone just tell me what to do!
I also will be towing a travel trailer occasionally. Will that make a difference?

I just installed a Truetrac in the rear of my 2010 and it works great. I went for the helical gears so there are no friction plates to wear out. If you're spinning a wheel, apply the brakes a bit while stepping on the gas to encourage the LSD to act more locker-ish.

For a full locker that's streetable you're looking at an ARB and all the peripherals that go with it. There aren't a ton of options available. The Raptor has an 9.75 rear e-locker but it's 35 splines while our trucks are 34 splines.

To handle a real good stuck I also installed an Ox selectable locker in the front differential. That may never be needed but it's peace of mind when driving on the beach during an incoming tide.

 

[ediddily]

Thank you all for your responses. I really appreciate them. After thinking about it, I didnt want to expose my wife to slip-n-slide locked rear end on icy roads, as she's paranoid about that already. The car has only been stuck in 3ft snow in front of the house, and recently offroad in a really dump spot, so its not too dispointing. I didn't want to spend more than 1000$ either. I really dislike any vacuum system, so arb was out of the question and there is no elocker for the 9.75" ring, that i could find anyways.
All in all I decided to keep a lsd style rear end that was better than the clutch system, so I went with the helical gear detroit truetrac. If all goes well, I'll think about putting one in the front.

I really wish there was more support for this car. Everything I read about removing the axles was telling me I had to remove the cover push the axles in and remove the retainer clip. For Frick sake all I had to do was pry it out in the first place. So I was so damn confused when I had the rear end trying to come out with the axles still in. What a learning lesson!
Some Russian dude on YouTube was taking his rear end out and that how I learned. Im such a dummy, either its out and the car just sits until I get the rear end rebuilt. Not doing that myself as my error level is too high for such a critical system.

Future upgrades:
3.5"F/3"R strut lift
33" minimum tires, I know I'll have change gearing to above 4, but I don't have the wheels or tires right now.
Flex-a-lit Electric fan conversion
Eidelbrock supercharger (when I'm rich, since its 6k$)

Current upgrades:
Drilled/slotted rotors
High flow intake and filter
Grill insert
Hikari LED headlights (they will temporarily blind you they're so bright)

 

[ExplorerTom]

Truetrac is a great upgrade. I have them on my Explorer. Goes pretty much anywhere.

 

[mjp2]

I'm on board with everything but the LEDs unless you're putting them in projectors. Don't be THAT guy.

 

[BlueStangGT]

I just installed a Truetrac in the rear of my 2010 and it works great. I went for the helical gears so there are no friction plates to wear out. If you're spinning a wheel, apply the brakes a bit while stepping on the gas to encourage the LSD to act more locker-ish.

For a full locker that's streetable you're looking at an ARB and all the peripherals that go with it. There aren't a ton of options available. The Raptor has an 9.75 rear e-locker but it's 35 splines while our trucks are 34 splines.

To handle a real good stuck I also installed an Ox selectable locker in the front differential. That may never be needed but it's peace of mind when driving on the beach during an incoming tide.

Truetrac is a great upgrade. I have them on my Explorer. Goes pretty much anywhere.

Agree 100% I put a Truetrac in my Mustang about 10 years ago, best money I've ever spent for a driveline part. Lots of Jeep guys use them also.

 

[RodInPrescott]

I also have 3rd generation expedition. Mine has a completely open rear differential, not limited slip. I've done a lot of research on differential options for mine, much of it in earlier threads in this forum and some of it in manufacturers' Websites. I haven't made my decision yet, but can tell you what I've found.

Automatic locking differentials, such as the Detroit Locker, are probably great offroad, in the tougher terrain I'd like to tackle. But they are noisy and jerky on the street, where I also must drive a lot. Muscle car jocks may not care about this, but I do.

A limited slip differential, such as you already have, is a good solution. Yours is probably just worn out. You could have the clutch plates replaced, and anything else in there that's gone bad. Or, you could get an Eaton TrueTrac limited slip differential, which is supposedly available for your rear. These reportedly use a different mechanism that lasts longer than the simple clutch plates. Eaton is the company which also makes the Detroit Locker.

Eaton also makes manual lockers, electric switch activated, but does not have one for our Expeditions. I wish they did.

I believe ARB makes a manual locker for our Expeditions. However, it's air activated rather than electric. That's fine for offroad vehicles that don't get driven many miles otherwise. But when driven many times more miles than the actual offroad use, i.e. on asphalt at highway speeds, the air seals go bad. Also, this method requires that an air compressor & tank be installed.

Ox makes a manual locker for only the front differential of our Expedition. It's activated either electrically or with a cable connected lever. This is definitely the way I'm leaning, and am having a local 4x4 shop work out a proposal for me. Front differential lockers are especially good for offroading in my locale, Arizona, where one must cross many deep sandy dry streambeds, aka 'washes'. When climbing out of such a wash, the front wheels are on dirt and/or rock (and rock could be very smooth). Rear wheels are in sand (much less traction even if you have a rear locker). If the bank you're climbing is steep, you need huge front wheel traction.

Hope this helps.

 

[jmstine]

It will be interesting to hear how the TruTrac does in the snow. My Expy has an open diff and have not decided to go with a TruTrac or a LSD, my only concern is snow conditions. Currently it is ok in the snow but we have had light winters lately.

 

[ExplorerTom]

Mine have been GREAT in snow. Drive like a sane person in RWD and it behaves and gets you through stuff. Drive like a high schooler in RWD and it’s a blast.

In 4wd….. Let’s put it this way. In March 2021 Denver got like 24” of pretty wet/heavy snow. I took my Explorer out and it went anywhere I pointed it. Of course a huge lift and big knobby mud tires helped.

 

[jmstine]

ExplorerTom, thanks for the update and confirming my suspicions/hope. My largest concern was not having the safety of one rear wheel not slipping with loss of traction with an open diff scenario, whereas the TruTrac would have both wheels spin with traction loss. At times going nowhere may be safer than going somewhere uncontrolled.