First oil change

[DD777]

Just wanted to get your thoughts and when you guys have done your first oil change and then after that what schedule do you plan to stick with? Thanks!

 

[lobsenza]

I normally do my first oil change at 1000-1500 miles. I just picked up my Navigator a couple of days ago. I may do my first oil change on this vehicle based on the oil life and change the oil at about 20% used.

 

[Going_Going_Gone]

I'm still not there yet, but I figure I'll have the first change done somewhere around 3,500-4K miles and from then on every 5K mi. With every new car or truck I've ever owned, I've always done all oil changes at 5K mi. intervals and never had any issues. I just feel like I need to do the first change sooner with this vehicle.

 

[1955moose]

It never is a bad thing to change oil early. On motorcycles we did first service at 600 miles. That included oil and filter change, differential oil, and a bunch of spray lubes and checks. You might want to step up to 2k for your first one, just to get rid of any metal or any debris. After that your 5k is fine. The oil catch can is recommended for your 3.5 turbo engine. Actually they work well on all modern higher compression or turbo engines. Much better than the pcv valves of the past.

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[lbv150]

First oil change 1500, then every 3,000 regardless of the oil life percent reading. I never drive the truck until the engine oil temp is "normal". Added the catch can. From what I understand it is not needed with the newer gen 3.5.

 

[cmiles97]

First oil change 1500, then every 3,000 regardless of the oil life percent reading. I never drive the truck until the engine oil temp is "normal". Added the catch can. From what I understand it is not needed with the newer gen 3.5.

That's true as the latest 3.5 TT has direct gas injection into the cylinder and fuel injected in a 2nd location to spray the back of the valves to "wash" the carbon off of them.

 

[Artie]

I normally do my first oil change at 1000-1500 miles. I just picked up my Navigator a couple of days ago. I may do my first oil change on this vehicle based on the oil life and change the oil at about 20% used.

This is what I did... but I had them come and get it and do it. I waited until I needed a wash as well since they do that with any service. I thought I’d miss doing the work myself but not so much, I still turn wrenches but it’s more on my terms now and it’s a lot fun for me this way.

 

[Randy Schmidt]

Changed oil for the first time at 1500 miles. Every 5000 miles there after. Use Ford supplied synthetic oil.

 

[rjdelp7]

Your owners manual, breaks it down into 3 service levels. 10K normal, 5k severe(short trips) and 3K extreme/towing. The factory 'fill" oil may have break in additives and probably, little detergents. If its a lease, wait a while on the first change. If its one you will keep 'forever', I would change around 3K. Rental car companies, leave the factory oil in to the max. I don't think the engines blow.

 

[RhinoQuartz]

Your owners manual, breaks it down into 3 service levels. 10K normal, 5k severe(short trips) and 3K extreme/towing. The factory 'fill" oil may have break in additives and probably, little detergents. If its a lease, wait a while on the first change. If its one you will keep 'forever', I would change around 3K. Rental car companies, leave the factory oil in to the max. I don't think the engines blow.

What sort of break in additives and/or detergents?

 

[rjdelp7]

What sort of break in additives and/or detergents?

New engines use an additive that hardens wears surfaces and suspend particles. I believe it is zinc phosphate, paraffin and molybdenum. Break in oil has no detergents, because there is no sludge or tarnish. Its new. Quaker State is known for high paraffin.

 

[scottdm]

Just changed my oil for the first time at 4950 miles with Mobil 1 5W30 and Mobil 1 filter. What a terrible design for the filter location. Even with the OEM drip tray under the filter, it drips out the back of the drip tray and down the front differential instead of out the front of the drip tray as intended. The engineer who designed this oil filter drip tray obviously never changed their own oil! I installed a fumoto drain valve ( https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f107n.html ) on my aluminum oil pan to simplify draining the oil pan for the next oil change since it can be used with a drain hose. The front sway bar is right in the path of where the oil drains from the drain plug, so I made my own diverter out of a plastic bottle for this first oil change. I've seen all the threads about filter relocation kits, but I'll just work on perfecting my oil change methods rather than risking a leak from the filter relocation kit. It would be interesting to see where the filter is located on the 5 Liter Coyote engines in the F150. Perhaps the filter location in the 3.5 Ecoboost was an afterthought based on packaging.

 

[TobyU]

New engines use an additive that hardens wears surfaces and suspend particles. I believe it is zinc phosphate, paraffin and molybdenum. Break in oil has no detergents, because there is no sludge or tarnish. Its new. Quaker State is known for high paraffin.

Quaker State and Pennzoil USED to be known for that because they were paraffin based oils and still are as most oils are.
Paraffinic oils are the most common type of oils from crude base stock.
Wax comes out of the refining process.
Refine does mean to make better.....
It does seem to be true that 40+ years ago Quaker State and Pennzoil seemed to sludge or wax up a lot more than many other oils. We can only assume the wax or other undesirable content was not as refined out as with other oils.

The latest one I have seen with either QS or Pennzoil that was sludged was a 305 or 350 in a 79 Caprice in about 1985. Lower area in heads near valve cover edge full of slimy layer of wet frog crap.

They are both high quality oils now.

It would be interesting if someone had some NOS 1950s-60s metal can of one around for testing. I had a Mobiloil Outboard rectangular can with small screw on cap once that was unopened. The last cans or oil I had was a case of 24 Valvoline 20w-50 racing my friend's dad gave me in 1990. They were the newer paper sides with metal top and bottom you pushed the spigot through the top to pour. He had traded in and given up Mustangs after his 3rd 5 sp blew out. He was out racing Grand Nationals in it though.

 

[1955moose]

Problem is their worth too much sealed and unused. Back in the early 70's when I was just getting into working on motorcycles and cars, my older brother used to swear by Pennzoil. With me it was Castrol Dino, mostly 20/50 weight, because my friends in the know said it was better than Pennzoil, and most of the others at the time. Now I know about the wax in the oil, I'm glad I made the right choice. My brother never kept his cars for more than 2 years, so we never saw a motor apart. Would have been interesting to see one after 100k. I do remember Shell gasoline back then used to leave a white flux of sorts around squish area of heads, and on top of pistons. This was in the time of leaded fuels.

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[TobyU]

Yes and shell motor oil back in the 80s from the gas station was green. And I forgot to mention after all the facts about leaded fuel at the main reason it was in fuel was to prevent exhaust valve seat recession. Wasn't that the main reason?

 

[1955moose]

Yep I think so. Even though heads were cast iron, the seats or heads themselves used to recess after less than 80,000 miles. Valve technology has come a long ways since back in the day. Back in my dad's day, 40's thru early 60's, valve jobs were common place at only 60,000 miles or so. Probably explains why so many cars, and trucks got junked. Making less than $100.00 a week at best, who could afford it. You had 4-9 kids average, so getting another car made more sense, and keeping food on the table, and shoes on your kid's.

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