Flushed Radiator on '14, Now Head Gasket Seems To Be Leaking

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Hamfisted

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Supposing I wanted a printed manual... Are the Haynes or Chilton manuals any good? My memory is that they are... slightly better than the owner's manual. Something like a Clymers would be great.


:mad3:

You can download a copy of the factory service manual from Cardiagn.com . But you have to extract it to a storage folder and find the index file to locate the section you're looking for. Kind of a PITA but it's free.
If you need a password during extraction it's cardiagn.com . The index file is "sejalphaindex.htm" in the Service section. Just open that and pick the section you want to read about.


2014 Service Manual from Cardiagn.com download


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JohnSKepler

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You can download a copy of the factory service manual from Cardiagn.com . But you have to extract it to a storage folder and find the index file to locate the section you're looking for. Kind of a PITA but it's free.
If you need a password during extraction it's cardiagn.com . The index file is "sejalphaindex.htm" in the Service section. Just open that and pick the section you want to read about.


2014 Service Manual from Cardiagn.com download


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Thanks for that Hamfisted. I may well do this myself. A plastic intake manifold is a very different beast than a cylinder head - even an aluminum one. My back still hurts from pulling my 289 heads back in 1987.

So, it doesn't look like I'll have to remove the valve covers, However, as long as I'm pulling out all that stuff to get to the intake I figure I'll replace the sparkplugs, too. They look a LOT easier to get to than the ones in my long-gone Gen 2. Any preferred brand of sparkplug? Motorcraft? NGK Laser Platinum? NGK Iridium? The most expensive is usually a rip off. The least expensive is what you pay for. Looking for a good, solid, middle of the road plug.

A local, reputable repair place wants $1,000 to do the job. I figure I can get started early and be done by lunch. Highly-experienced, well-equipped mech but I'm not familiar with this engine.
 
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Hamfisted

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I don't think you can go wrong with Motorcraft plugs. I find that my cordless 1/4" ratchet comes in real handy for this job. Some people pull the fuel injector rail off, some people work around it and just disconnect it from the feed line at the rear of the manifold.
 
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JohnSKepler

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I don't think you can go wrong with Motorcraft plugs. I find that my cordless 1/4" ratchet comes in real handy for this job. Some people pull the fuel injector rail off, some people work around it and just disconnect it from the feed line at the rear of the manifold.
I've been a Fel-Pro fan for a long time so I'll be going with those. I don't recall needing any gasket sealing compounds on intake gaskets with the raised rubber sealing rings so I won't need that. I am going to try to pick up materials on the way home and get this going this afternoon. Thinking: Intake manifold gasket kit (comes with crossover gaskets), sparkplugs.
I just flushed the radiator so will be draining, capturing, and refilling with same 50/50 EthGly/distilled water mix.

If the manifold/coolant face is worn or broken (as I've seen is about a 50/50 chance on earlier motors) I can either try the JBWeld repair or put in a new intake manifold which is $500 from Ford and on a 6-8 week backorder. COVID, no doubt, like everything else. So, I'd be doing the JBWeld thing if it is worn or broken. I hear it works pretty well. Just draws out the repair. I've done those kinds of fixes before and like to put in a reinforcing metal rod but I'm not sure I'd do that in this case as it would destroy water pump it if came loose. Maybe just drill in and insert some pins?

Anything else I might need?
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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Supposing I wanted a printed manual... Are the Haynes or Chilton manuals any good? My memory is that they are... slightly better than the owner's manual. Something like a Clymers would be great.

Apples to oranges. The Haynes/Chilton manuals offer very general overviews whereas the Ford service manual provides detailed instructions for just about everything. I don't know if they still offer printed service manuals, but you may find them on eBay. I have both the digital and printed versions for my '11. I think I paid about $10 for the former and $90 for the latter.
 
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JohnSKepler

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Apples to oranges. The Haynes/Chilton manuals offer very general overviews whereas the Ford service manual provides detailed instructions for just about everything. I don't know if they still offer printed service manuals, but you may find them on eBay. I have both the digital and printed versions for my '11. I think I paid about $10 for the former and $90 for the latter.
Honestly, all I need are torque order for the intake and torque specs for the various bolts. I really do love using my torque wrenches. It's like a reward for remembering where things go. I can't see where I'd need instruction anywhere else. Pretty simple take-apart-put-back-together-with-new-parts scenario. If anyone would care to share that for a '14 it would be one less thing for me to scrap together. Thanks!
 

dcsang

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This is pretty handy for your #8 but it can be done without: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP3VWYF

I am also partial to Mototcraft plugs. The gap is usually spot on but verify before installing. Call me paranoid but I would also **** out the plug ports before removal. Also, thx for the heads-up with cardiagn.com!
 
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JohnSKepler

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  • Stage 1: Tighten to 2 Nm (18 lb-in).
  • Stage 2: Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
No wonder these things leak! Still, any chance to use my Park 2-14 Nm torque wrench. It's my favorite tool. I usually use it on motorcycles.

I plan on downloading the Cardaign manual when I get home but just in case that doesn't work: any idea what the crossover torques to?
 

Hamfisted

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No wonder these things leak! Still, any chance to use my Park 2-14 Nm torque wrench. It's my favorite tool. I usually use it on motorcycles.

I plan on downloading the Cardaign manual when I get home but just in case that doesn't work: any idea what the crossover torques to?

Wouldn't hurt to do them in two stages as well. But the only torque number I see is 89 inch lbs ( 10Nm ) on those bolts.





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