Fridge power 12v socket in rear

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Tys expedition

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I have looked and not been successful finding a thread on this. has anyone figured out how to make the rear 12v socket always hot. and to be specific i am trying to determine if someone has an easy fix for this. i realize i could just run a hot line from the battery to the rear but id like to know if there's a more elegant solution. specifically one that doesn't require pulling the panel out in the rear or cutting into the harness back there. I'm guessing its not on its own circuit though so it probably can't be jumped at the fuse box. id love a solution if anyone has dug into this
 

LokiWolf

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I have looked and not been successful finding a thread on this. has anyone figured out how to make the rear 12v socket always hot. and to be specific i am trying to determine if someone has an easy fix for this. i realize i could just run a hot line from the battery to the rear but id like to know if there's a more elegant solution. specifically one that doesn't require pulling the panel out in the rear or cutting into the harness back there. I'm guessing its not on its own circuit though so it probably can't be jumped at the fuse box. id love a solution if anyone has dug into this

Have you tested the FORSCAN settings?


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Fozzy

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Kinda off topic, what 12v fridge did you get?


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bushpilot

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Kinda off topic, what 12v fridge did you get?


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I run an EdgeStar 63 quart in our RV / Basement storage (its on slides)....its a REAL fridge with a REAL compressor...not some electronic thermo-electric crap that wont keep things cooler than 20* below ambient temp.

It can freeze to -5 f and its thermostatically controlled....set it and forget it.....it auto switches from 12vdc to 120vac (if you plug into a source etc).

Its been a great fridge - been running non stop for better than 6 yrs....ive turned it off 2 maybe 3 times (actually froze some beers)....well worth the money and its a GREAT value.

https://www.compactappliance.com/edgestar-portable-coolers/
 

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I run an EdgeStar 63 quart in our RV / Basement storage (its on slides)....its a REAL fridge with a REAL compressor...not some electronic thermo-electric crap that wont keep things cooler than 20* below ambient temp.

Personally I would not want this running off my starter battery. I have yet to dig into efficiency ratings on these but I'm willing to guess fridges from ARB and Engel are significantly more efficient. Those seem like a great option for a trailer or all out overland setup with accessory battery(s)...

As for the wiring I'd at least want to put eyes on the wiring to verify it is up to par for the load you plan on pulling through it. Given how weak ass Ford on the inverters Im less than confident in the penny pinchers on wiring. I'm most likely going to be running a big cable to a distro box under the floorboard in the way back. I found a practically new 2k inverter that just might fit down there with some trimming. Only concern is ventilation...

I have started to research dual battery setups but have yet to come across any. Even on F150s which I find odd. Hopefully someone will come up with something bolt on soon... Might reach out to SDHQ and see if they know of anything.

I too am curious what fridge you went with and how you plan on mounting if at all...
 
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Fozzy

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I run an EdgeStar 63 quart in our RV / Basement storage (its on slides)....its a REAL fridge with a REAL compressor...not some electronic thermo-electric crap that wont keep things cooler than 20* below ambient temp.

It can freeze to -5 f and its thermostatically controlled....set it and forget it.....it auto switches from 12vdc to 120vac (if you plug into a source etc).

Its been a great fridge - been running non stop for better than 6 yrs....ive turned it off 2 maybe 3 times (actually froze some beers)....well worth the money and its a GREAT value.

https://www.compactappliance.com/edgestar-portable-coolers/

Wow, I that is a good find. How loud is it? I have been contemplating a fridge in my Expy since I bought it. I have a Yeti M30 I keep in the Expy. It fits in between the captain chairs and is a very good soft sided cooler. But for a few hundred more I could have the small EdgeStar. [emoji106]


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AKentPhoto

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If you are looking for a DIY project they sell all sorts of amp wiring kits on amazon that are pretty reasonable. Just make sure the wires will be long enough

If you are looking for a more turn key option any car audio shop could get it done for you. Could wire the big wires to the factory one or add another socket...
 
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Tys expedition

Tys expedition

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so i found out something weird tonight. after purchasing a second battery and a cheap plastic battery box i spent a few hours building a wiring harness and used a relay to switch from starter to house battery. i also added my ctek d250sa so i could solar change even though i have not connected it to the stater battery or alternator. i get all the way done and had it all up and test it out. works great no problem. then i turn the truck off and my fridge still has power and it was plugged to the 12v socket. i test the socket and its still hot. when originally testing it was dead until i at least activated key power. i thought well maybe if i turn the truck on and off again with it disconnected it will turn off. nope still hot. i know i tested it a couple times prior to going through all the hassle of building a second battery setup but now im really second guessing myself. anyone else test theirs?

also its an arb 63liter fridge. I've had it for 6 or seven years and never turn it off. it draws about 20ah-30ah a day in phoenix. arb says they average just under 1ah/hr but its a variable speed danfoss compressor so depending on how wire size and length of run, ambient temp, temp you set to you really need to do your own testing. i run mine at -1celcius. with the cycling it goes up to 1c and then kicks on down to -2c. its extremely efficient. and when running draws between 2-5a.

i hope ford chose a large enough wire for that draw. but for reference that's less than a laptop and id guess its designed to at least charge a laptop.

ill have a 2 day trip to see if i can get the plug to ever turn off again. all i can think of is that the brain in the truck keeps it on if it sensed a draw when the truck was turned off. not really sure what to think until i do more testing
 

AKentPhoto

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The ARB and Engel fridges are most likely efficient enough to work on factory wiring. I was more talking about the bigger more powerful fridges made for RVs.

Where were you going to mount your 2nd battery?

Another thing to test is if the car monitors usage as well and if it turns off automatically to save the starter battery...

Also, with as many people on here complaining about quirks that pop up from low battery issues I'd prefer to keep a fridge on a deep cycle batt. Unless you are going to be running the car often throughout the day... Something to consider. Especially since you have done all the leg work for it anyway.
 
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LokiWolf

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so i found out something weird tonight. after purchasing a second battery and a cheap plastic battery box i spent a few hours building a wiring harness and used a relay to switch from starter to house battery. i also added my ctek d250sa so i could solar change even though i have not connected it to the stater battery or alternator. i get all the way done and had it all up and test it out. works great no problem. then i turn the truck off and my fridge still has power and it was plugged to the 12v socket. i test the socket and its still hot. when originally testing it was dead until i at least activated key power. i thought well maybe if i turn the truck on and off again with it disconnected it will turn off. nope still hot. i know i tested it a couple times prior to going through all the hassle of building a second battery setup but now im really second guessing myself. anyone else test theirs?

also its an arb 63liter fridge. I've had it for 6 or seven years and never turn it off. it draws about 20ah-30ah a day in phoenix. arb says they average just under 1ah/hr but its a variable speed danfoss compressor so depending on how wire size and length of run, ambient temp, temp you set to you really need to do your own testing. i run mine at -1celcius. with the cycling it goes up to 1c and then kicks on down to -2c. its extremely efficient. and when running draws between 2-5a.

i hope ford chose a large enough wire for that draw. but for reference that's less than a laptop and id guess its designed to at least charge a laptop.

ill have a 2 day trip to see if i can get the plug to ever turn off again. all i can think of is that the brain in the truck keeps it on if it sensed a draw when the truck was turned off. not really sure what to think until i do more testing

Default it should stay on for 60 minutes, at least that is what my 2020 setting was and I confirmed that for the front outlet. Taking the theory I had earlier was the back is tied to the front, then it should stay on 60 minutes after the vehicle is turned of.


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Tys expedition

Tys expedition

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I’ll test it this trip and have some followup. As far as secondary battery options. There aren’t any good ones so far even for f150s. My buddy has an f150 and we are going to put it behind the back seat. There’s a spot some people try to hide them inside the frame rail too but neither is ideal. At some point I think I’ll build a trailer. I like the turtlebacks but they’re pretty pricey. After seeing all the options at overland expo they actually look like the best bang for the buck. I think I can build one for 5k ish
 

Artie

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I’ll test it this trip and have some followup. As far as secondary battery options. There aren’t any good ones so far even for f150s. My buddy has an f150 and we are going to put it behind the back seat. There’s a spot some people try to hide them inside the frame rail too but neither is ideal. At some point I think I’ll build a trailer. I like the turtlebacks but they’re pretty pricey. After seeing all the options at overland expo they actually look like the best bang for the buck. I think I can build one for 5k ish
There is a Facebook group called ‘Full-Size Overlanders’ that probably has someone running duals on a f150 or earlier gen expy. Maybe check them out?
 

bushpilot

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Personally I would not want this running off my starter battery. I have yet to dig into efficiency ratings on these but I'm willing to guess fridges from ARB and Engel are significantly more efficient. Those seem like a great option for a trailer or all out overland setup with accessory battery(s)...

As for the wiring I'd at least want to put eyes on the wiring to verify it is up to par for the load you plan on pulling through it. Given how weak ass Ford on the inverters Im less than confident in the penny pinchers on wiring. I'm most likely going to be running a big cable to a distro box under the floorboard in the way back. I found a practically new 2k inverter that just might fit down there with some trimming. Only concern is ventilation...

I have started to research dual battery setups but have yet to come across any. Even on F150s which I find odd. Hopefully someone will come up with something bolt on soon... Might reach out to SDHQ and see if they know of anything.

I too am curious what fridge you went with and how you plan on mounting if at all...

I completely agree on the wiring, and id be more likely to run my own/fused/heavier gauged....I don't like power points/cigarette lighters....theyre generally weak and can get hot fast.

on my 2004 F350, I added a 3rd (isolated) battery for stereo/amps and inverter connections...the 3rd battery was mounted on the frame rail of the truck using an E350 (van) battery box...the E350s mount the starter batteries on the frame.

you can get some VERY efficient fridge units but youll pay 3x for them.

If I were gonna run any fridge in the Expy, id add a 2nd battery and isolate it and I'd leave the thing IN the EXPY.
If I were RUNNing a fridge for the occasional road trip I wouldn't worry about it.
 

bushpilot

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Wow, I that is a good find. How loud is it? I have been contemplating a fridge in my Expy since I bought it. I have a Yeti M30 I keep in the Expy. It fits in between the captain chairs and is a very good soft sided cooler. But for a few hundred more I could have the small EdgeStar. [emoji106]

don't laugh but....I don't care how loud it is....mostly cause its in a basement bin of the rv ;)
seriously its not loud when it runs the fan...and its not constantly running the fan.

you can sit right next to it and have a conversation w/out even thinking about it running.

KNOW that this thing also will not kill a battery - its got a voltage shut down feature that will turn it off before if the supplied voltage is too low....if I were parked at some ones house etc...I would run an extension cord to it (to avoid battery consumption)....and id probably have it configured such that the same extension cord power connection supplied power to a battery maintainer.

The 63qt unit is HUGE (it'll hold 3 cases w/out thought)...its amazing how much more you can get in a cooler when you don't need ice in it....the freedom of not worrying about ice.

for reference the storage bin is about 26 inches deep (the cooler is on 24 inch slides)...


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Fozzy

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I like the idea of one in the RV as well. We know you have a baller coach. I want the small one for dune, lake trips and general travel. I want it inside the Expy. Ice is such a pain vs a fridge after initial set up and purchase.


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bushpilot

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I like the idea of one in the RV as well. We know you have a baller coach. I want the small one for dune, lake trips and general travel. I want it inside the Expy. Ice is such a pain vs a fridge after initial set up and purchase.

wasn't posting to brag, pictures were for reference/comparable sizing.

My contribution is that based on experience of a brand that 1) inexpensive and 2) both durable and long lasting (the ride in a coach is not as nice as one in an EXPY).

If money is no object - National Luna is THE best, outback worthy & tested....off grid / crazy efficient and even has dual compartment/compressor options.... hold onto your wallet (more expensive than Engle even) --->

https://www.nationalluna.com/product-category/camping-fridge


https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=national+luna

The EdgeStar is quiet enough to put in the back of the expy. a friend of mine mounted his EdgeStar in the back of his E350/Quigley 4x4 van...he never shuts it off, when the van is parked at the house, its plugged in/charging batteries & running the fridge

they make a smaller unit 43 qt unit.....and the EdgeStar is also sold under the Whynter brand name.
Whynter brand also has some duel compartment units - make one side fridge, the other freezer or make 'em both the same thing.

whatever you go w/, go w/ a COMPRESSOR based unit (not the thermo-electric crap....I tried 'em....they suck, I don't like 50*f beer when its 90*f out).

the ARB are pricing and service is an issue, only one location service center.

I think given battery technology - it should be easy to add a 2nd isolated battery - and for those running off road/grid camping - you could easily (and temporarily) mount a small solar panel on your racks. If you can keep the batteries charged during the day (when youre away playing) you wont have to worry about charging the battery at night / by running the engine when you return to camp.
 
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Artie

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We run the largest snomaster traveller in our trailer and it’s been solid.
 
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