Has anyone ever replaced their axle seals?

[Jay87LX]

Long story short, I have my '99 XLT, took it to Myrtle Beach towing my 6x12 trailer with my Harley in it, as I was pulling out of the gas staion at 4am the brake like from the MC to the ABS block blew out die to rust, I got it towed to the nearest Ford dealer and they replaced the line. They also pointed out that there is some pretty heavy areas of rust and the rear shock mount rusted away from the frame. They also pointed out that the axle seal on the driver side rear axle seems to be leaking. Before my trip back home I checked the fluid level in the diff and it was full so I am unsure how much it is leaking but I could see the fluid on the rim and tire.
I am at the crossroads with the truck in that should I keep it and replace the axle seals, all the brake lines and have the rusty rockers replaced or just get a new truck. I really like this truck, it pulled the trailer to Myrtle and back without issues (2000 miles total round trip) with the AC blasting cold. At one point I had the OD off and the rpm's were steady at 2800 with the cruise on and when I pulled off the highway I could hear the fluid in the trans boiling (seriously it was sizzling-LOL) it was 90 plus degrees out, but on the way home I didn't use the CC so I could control the RPMs and it was fine but I also blew another brake line just before the George Washington bridge.
I only have 103,*** miles, super clean interior, just did a coolant flush, trans service, oil change, diff service, all new spark plugs but as I said it has rust issues, i would just go ahead and replace all the lines, and tackle the axle seals.
Has anyone ever done this? I am sure the diff cover needs to come off and the axle slid out? I also would need new dust shields ( I think thats what they are called.
OPINIONS?

 

[Thermo]

Jay, the axle seals are easy to do. The new seals are like $10 each. If you have 1 side out, might as well do both sides. The amount of extra work is very minimal.

The steps you need to take:
-lift rear of truck into the air and support on jack stands.
-remove rear tires
-remove calipers from rear axle and then remove the rotor
-remove the pan off of the differential and allow all fluid to drain out
-rotate the center assembly to access the retaining bolt holding the center pin/spider gears in place. Remove the bolt, then the center pin
-push the hub in towards the center of the truck a half inch or so
-remove the retaining C-Clip that is located inside the differential (clip is located near where the axle would have touched the center pin)
-pull the axle from the truck
-remove the seal from the axle using a screw driver (seal is pressed into place)

Installation is the reverse of this. Just make sure to get the pan cleaned really good and apply some RTV to get it sealed again. You will need 2.5 quarts of 75W-140 full synthetic gear lube.

As for needing new dust shields, not required. Use a little bit of detergent diluted in water, spray it on to the shield, let sit for a minute then rinse off using the hose.

 

[Jay87LX]

Thanks for the info- I just read a GREAT write up with pics and everything on the F150 forum done by a ford tech. I need the dustshields because mine are rusted- like everything else-lol

 

[tonydiv]

A lot of times those seals go because of movement in the wheel bearings, you should look them over and replace them if the races are boogered up. Again, not a ton of additional work.

 

[Jay87LX]

Would it be during this time, doing the axle seals, that I should do the brake dust shields? They are pretty rusted as well, or can the be done at anytime? I tried to find a write up but didnt see one

 

[tonydiv]

I may not be the best person to answer that since I suffer from "might-as-well-itis". Once I start a job, I constantly say 'might as well replace this too, since I'm in to it'.

If you think that you're going to be repacing those backing plates in the near future anyway.... you might as well do it now.

 

[Jay87LX]

I may not be the best person to answer that since I suffer from "might-as-well-itis". Once I start a job, I constantly say 'might as well replace this too, since I'm in to it'.

If you think that you're going to be repacing those backing plates in the near future anyway.... you might as well do it now.

From what I see the only way they can go on is when the axle is out, then put the plates onto the backing flange and install the axles?

 

[02expi]

It is possible the fluid u saw is brake fluid wipe some off the tire and smell it gear lube has a nasty distinct odor.

 

[Jay87LX]

It is possible the fluid u saw is brake fluid wipe some off the tire and smell it gear lube has a nasty distinct odor.

definately gear oil, if it were brake fluid with the amount that is there I would have no brakes

 

[Motorcity]

I have 230k with stock seals no leaks used to pull 28ft chris craft all original drive train. Sounds like your truck never got the proper maintenance or care. If your undercarriage is rusted to the point that parts are falling off that vehicle is not worth fixing. My 2001 is rust free , I wash the salt off on regular basis in the winter including the underbody, I also sprayed the underbody with wd40 lithium grease mixt.

 

[98eb5.4]

i got 477k original clicks on my truck and hums, make sure your axle vent ain't plugged,

if you have limited slip that needs attention, or a fresh clutch pack, this would be an ideal time (wheel bearing seal work) to deal with that

early axles are 8.8 sized, not sure when exactly that changed