Heated and cooled seats

[montecarlo31]

The dealership called me and stated that they are replacing the module on mine for the second time in 6 months. They're also replacing the seat track and the memory module for the seat. These seats are more trouble than they're than effin' worth. :/

Mine went out on my 13 expedition and the seat track now rocks as well. Lovely for a sub 30K mile car. Ford products suck and have gotten worse lately. I actually ordered 15 little Peterbilts this month instead of my normal F-650 run.

For what it's worth my wife has a QX80 and we've had ZERO warranty issues with it and it's got 10X the features that the expedition does and probably twice the off road ability.

 

[k9education]

Ford products suck and have gotten worse lately.

I loved my 2000 Mountaineer. I bought it in 2006 for $9,700 and in the first 8.5 years of ownership, I put practically nothing into it (maybe $400 in repairs during that time). During the last 6 months of ownership, I sunk about $1,200 into it, but still not bad for 9 years. I ended up selling it a couple months ago for $2,600 with 234K on the clock and zero doubt that it would go to 300K without a hiccup. Best vehicle I ever owned. I've already had it with the Expedition after 6 months and I will not be buying another Ford. Ever.

 

[botts]

Can the pigtail be removed from the seats at both ends?

Or should I just do the crimping under the seat and not attempt to remove it from the non-module end?

 

[Gamecock]

So my heated seat have been down for awhile an I'm over the cold leather in the mornings. I ordered up a new harness off Rock Auto for about $40, went to Home Depot and got 10-12 gauge butt connectors, a mini touch (for heat shrinking them, not 100% necessary but I figured do it right), and a new strip/crimping pliers. All told it took me about 2.5 hours taking my time and watching this video:

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=FLm6tzddV7IVOmFM8LulSP_w

The only thing I did different is use butt connectors that have heat shrink on the ends. Also the plastic cover on the front of the passenger seat just pulls off. Take it off and get it out of the way and then its easy to see what is what and where everything belongs and tucks in. You will have long wires after the job, but it all tucks up in there. Just make sure you keep it away from anything that moves so you don't cut a wire.


One funny story from the job:
I had a wire I guess I did get fully spliced so I'm pulled on the pliers to strip it (the sheath) and it finally lets go and "POP" I whack myself right in the forehead! LOL Didn't think anything of it and no one was watching so I go back to work. Wife comes out to check on my like 5 minutes after it happened and is like what happened to your head?! I look in the mirror and have a little stream of blood running down my face. Never knew! LOL
Only I could do something like that!

 

[botts]

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=FLm6tzddV7IVOmFM8LulSP_w

The only thing I did different is use butt connectors that have heat shrink on the ends. Also the plastic cover on the front of the passenger seat just pulls off. Take it off and get it out of the way and then its easy to see what is what and where everything belongs and tucks in. You will have long wires after the job, but it all tucks up in there. Just make sure you keep it away from anything that moves so you don't cut a wire.

I smacked myself in the head with my drill putting holes in a trailer a little while ago. Thank goodness for eye protection.

Good call on the heat shrink butt connectors, keeping water out of those will be greatly beneficial. I soldered mine, but heat shrunk them after. Probably overkill, and those weather resistant work pretty much as well as long as you crimp them well.

 

[Ford Convert]

So can anyone confirm that buy the dscm from a junkyard is reasonable and effective course of action? Also can anyone confirm that I have to take it to the dealer for programming? Seems like seat climate control wouldnt need programmed.

 

[MattyMMA]

If you follow the link to the youtube video above, i believe you just change the end of the wires with the new adaptor, and it basically runs two grounds. Even though there is a little blackening on the DSCM, it appears to work fine after the fix above. Because you are not changing out the DSCM, there should be no reprogramming. I would attempt in two phases, fix the ground, then replace the DSCM if necessary.

Just started happening on our 2010. We have an extended warranty until 100K, but I'm making them do the TSB.

 

[drokmofo]

I ordered the pig tail from rockauto for $36+ shipping. Will be doing the fix this week before we head to Colorado for a week. Thx to all who have provided info in this thread.

 

[Ford Convert]

awesome! order the part at our local ACI Parts warehouse 37.42 plus tax. Cant wait to work on this tomorrow. I hope it works. If it does I am going to the Ford dealer and telling them they owe me $100 buck for their useless diagnostics.

 

[Adieu]

Mine went out on my 13 expedition and the seat track now rocks as well. Lovely for a sub 30K mile car. Ford products suck and have gotten worse lately. I actually ordered 15 little Peterbilts this month instead of my normal F-650 run.

For what it's worth my wife has a QX80 and we've had ZERO warranty issues with it and it's got 10X the features that the expedition does and probably twice the off road ability.

Seat track loose, isnt that just something not bolted down tight?