Heater Blend Door Replacement (Common Issue)

[JExpedition07]

OEM REPLACEMENT: FORD MOTORCRAFT #YH1873

So I posted a thread earlier on this subject because the screw deep inside was kind of a PITA. Other than that it was a piece of cake to replace. If your HVAC is either clicking or stuck on hot or cold this is most likely your problem. For me it was stuck on cool. This problem is a very common occurrence on 3rd gen expys so I figured I'd post the steps in a proper thread that people can search and find regarding it easier.

1. Gently pry out bottom trim piece below your HVAC controls
2.Start by pulling up and out on the big center trim piece around your radio and HVAC controls, be careful to not flex it too much, remove the connectors
3. Remove four screws holding the radio/nav screen in place (7mm) and pull it out, remove all the connectors
4. Inside you'll see the door actuator which is held in my 2 8mm screws. It is a black housing behind the radio. Depending on if you have standard or dual zone there will be a difference. Manual heat has one of these. Dual Zone has multiples. Remove the two screws, however you have to. Box wrench, socket set, whatever you have that will actually fit in the space.
5.Pull it out, put the replacement in its place (NOTE: the OEM replacement will be set to the arrow on the housing, depending where your old one got stuck you may need to move the splines on the door in the truck to make it match up) then tighten the 8mm screws
6.Put your radio and dash connections together and pop the plastic pieces back on and you should be good to go!

Mine exhibited no clicking but would not move from cool, this replacement fixed her up! I'd recommend the Ford OEM unit as they aren't too expensive and you know what quality you are getting.

 

[rollinstone]

Excellent write-up. DIY and you're saving about $1500. I had a similar problem with my old Explorer, but it was a broken plastic top hinge on the door itself. The DIY fix was to cut the bottom out of the passenger side plenum, the bad door drops out and you replace it with a new door (rockauto.com for about $17) which snaps in place into the bottom of the door actuator motor...same looking as the one above. Replace the cutout and tape it back in place. Wondering how hard it is to replace the blend door in the Expy?

 

[gixer2000]

This might be better suited for the how to section and could make it easier to find in the future. Good write up!

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

JFlexpedition, if you get a chance can you post a picture of the tool you came up with to remove the screws?

 

[JExpedition07]

Unfortunately I don’t have that photo anymore. But after I used that made up contraption to get it out I used an offset box wrench to put it back in I think? The first box wrench I used which didn’t work was actually the wrong size but appeared to fit. It was at a ridiculous angle but was able to get enough on it to tighten it down as I remember.

 

[gixer2000]

Unfortunately I don’t have that photo anymore. But after I used that made up contraption to get it out I used an offset box wrench to put it back in I think? The first box wrench I used which didn’t work was actually the wrong size but appeared to fit. It was at a ridiculous angle but was able to get enough on it to tighten it down as I remember.

Its in your other thread

 

[JExpedition07]

oh yea, I’m not the sharpest pencil am I?

 

[JExpedition07]

Also wishing I could edit the title. Specifically this write up pertains to the replacement of your Heater Blend Door ACTUATOR. It’s not the door itself. Overlooked putting that in there hate calling things incorrectly.

Another thing is the part number I posted is NOT the Motorcraft part number my bad, it was the supplier number. The MC # is 7L1Z19E616C

 

[Druid]

Great write-up and the video link in your other thread was fantastic. Did the '07 require pulling the fuse to reset the HVAC as shown in that video?

Thanks,

Drew

 

[JExpedition07]

Great write-up and the video link in your other thread was fantastic. Did the '07 require pulling the fuse to reset the HVAC as shown in that video?

Thanks,

Drew

I did not remove the fuse. Usually the actuator is trying to seek the position you have the dial set to but can’t get there due to broken teeth on the gear or a burnt out motor. No reset was required it should plug and play.

 

[Druid]

Thanks again for this post. Advice here and that video link were super helpful. Even with the warning, though, that stupid rear screw sucked!

Drew

 

[JExpedition07]

Thanks again for this post. Advice here and that video link were super helpful. Even with the warning, though, that stupid rear screw sucked!

Drew

Haha yea its a tiny space when you get to doing the job.

 

[DecoyTheDead]

Is there a link to the previous write up? I am not finding it.

Thank you

 

[JExpedition07]

Is there a link to the previous write up? I am not finding it.

Thank you

http://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/any-suggestions.33518/
Not much good info in the other thread except for a video. Also the part number I put in the original post here was the supplier number I just realized that and corrected it in the last post I’m able to edit, the OEM number is 7L1Z19E616C.

 

[TK13LG]

Hope I never have to do this, but very cool of you to share.

 

[JExpedition07]

I’d get an offset 8mm box wrench, I had offset wrenches but I was trying to get an SAE to work on metric. When I had my dash open putting in the navigation screen I bought a nice offset metric set and test fit it and it would have made the job a lot easier as it fit in there nicely. You get sick of running to buy more and more tools on such a stupid little thing but in hindsight that’s the way to go.

 

[DecoyTheDead]

When replacing these, does it really matter if they are motorcraft parts? On RockAuto.com, there is a "Standard motor products" brand that is cheaper. Is the quality really that different?

 

[JExpedition07]

When replacing these, does it really matter if they are motorcraft parts? On RockAuto.com, there is a "Standard motor products" brand that is cheaper. Is the quality really that different?

I’d get the Motorcraft for this particular job yes, The offbrand ones are pretty junky and like to chew the little teeth on the gears inside the housing quick from what I’ve heard. This isn’t a job you want to do twice it’s really a pain for such a small part.