Hellwig 7696 is installed on 2024 Expedition

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aj1936

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I agree the rear bar way far more noticeable because the rear is this vehicles downfall with its outdated IRS geometry. The rear bar stops the side to side head bobbing action.
The front bar makes it lay on the road and handle much better at speed and in corners.
If these sway bars didn't exist, I'd have sold my expedition the first few months I bought it new. Its pathetic how they come from the factory.
Hi there -- I wish I had the skill to replace the rear sway bar myself, but I will probably end up breaking something. You've consulted with a lot of people on this and I'm wondering if you could provide instructions you'd give to a local shop to do the work? Basically I would need to double-check exact part numbers and the installation steps / requirements.

Thanks in advance...

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2023 SPP
 
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Hellwig

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Hi there -- I wish I had the skill to replace the rear sway bar myself, but I will probably end up breaking something. You've consulted with a lot of people on this and I'm wondering if you could provide instructions you'd give to a local shop to do the work? Basically I would need to double-check exact part numbers and the installation steps / requirements.

Thanks in advance...

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2023 SPP

Part number for the rear is Hellwig 7688. If you've ever changed the engine oil and filter, you are able to replace the rear sway bar. These two jobs have the same level of difficulty. Instuction manual comes with the bar in the same box. All you need are a 15mm wrench and a 3/8 in. dr. torque wrench. I think the torques are like 35ish ft.lb for the bushing nuts and 45ish ft.lb for the endlink nuts, or something very similar. I don't remember them precisely. You can search this forum, or check the vehicle repair manual to find exact torque specs.
 
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GlennSullivan

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I replaced the rear only with the Helwig unit on my 2017 EL. It made a night and day difference. The front would also probably improve the handling but I detected that the rear by far needed the most help.
Can you tell me what part number you used on your 2017. I think I'd like to change the rear on my 2017 out.
 

5280tunage

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Uh Oh @Hellwig, let's see how long your end links last. I did both bars and for sure on the front, I've tried 3 or 4 different end link setups. I have posts on here on which ones i've settle on but they are universal ones from Energy suspension. The stock ones started popping in about 5k miles, the Moog ones were even worse. Seems any of the ones that use a ball joint style articulation can't handle the added strength of the new bar. I have to replace the bushings on my current ones again soon, but this time I'm trying some higher density Poly ones vs. the rubber/low density Poly stuff to see if they last a little longer. I've searched and searched and asked companies to make some heavy duty off-road style ones for these, and no one wants to.
 
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Hellwig

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Uh Oh @Hellwig, let's see how long your end links last. I did both bars and for sure on the front, I've tried 3 or 4 different end link setups. I have posts on here on which ones i've settle on but they are universal ones from Energy suspension. The stock ones started popping in about 5k miles, the Moog ones were even worse. Seems any of the ones that use a ball joint style articulation can't handle the added strength of the new bar. I have to replace the bushings on my current ones again soon, but this time I'm trying some higher density Poly ones vs. the rubber/low density Poly stuff to see if they last a little longer. I've searched and searched and asked companies to make some heavy duty off-road style ones for these, and no one wants to.

I hear some weird "pop" sound coming from the front now when I brake the vehicle, within 2000 miles after replacement. I didn't know what that was. But from what you said, I am suspecting it may be caused by the front end links. lol. I just replaced my engine oil the day before yesterday and checked the front end links. They look still fine, at least for now.
By the way, I've already copied your Energy end link info on my computer, and get ready to replace. They are as below:

FRONT
Energy Suspension 9.5175R bushing kit
Energy Suspension 9.8121R end link set (only need 1, comes with pairs) - Dremel 1/2" of the brass spacers off before installing per previous post suggested in this thread
 
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Hellwig

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Uh Oh @Hellwig, let's see how long your end links last. I did both bars and for sure on the front, I've tried 3 or 4 different end link setups. I have posts on here on which ones i've settle on but they are universal ones from Energy suspension. The stock ones started popping in about 5k miles, the Moog ones were even worse. Seems any of the ones that use a ball joint style articulation can't handle the added strength of the new bar. I have to replace the bushings on my current ones again soon, but this time I'm trying some higher density Poly ones vs. the rubber/low density Poly stuff to see if they last a little longer. I've searched and searched and asked companies to make some heavy duty off-road style ones for these, and no one wants to.

By the way, Do you mind share your recommendation for the "higher density Poly" bushings, if you have this info? Thanks in advance.
 

5280tunage

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By the way, Do you mind share your recommendation for the "higher density Poly" bushings, if you have this info? Thanks in advance.
Of course, happy to. to be completely honest I haven't installed them yet, too many other issues like troubleshooting the stupid interior notification sounds (i have another post on that) and sadly a failing family member, but the end link bushings are energy suspension part number 9.8103G. I bought them off of Amazon for roughly $10 a set. according to ES, these are slightly better and more dense than the ones that come with the universal set, but I haven't compared them side by side. The popping, yeah it's frustrating but honestly, my moon/sunroof pop every single time I go over a curb, so this is at least 50% better than that, lol. The flex in the roof is insane on this thing.

Also, I should say I found it easier to install the universal thread side up, easier to install the various washers and bushings as you push the bolt up through the spacer, etc., than trying to work against gravity, plus I don't like the threaded end hanging down possibly to scrape on something.

There was another post on here recently about using some heavy duty billet aluminum bar mounts. I've also tried at least 3 different mounts and so far the ones I'm using have been the best. I don't like ones that aren't greaseable as they get too dirty. I like ones with Zirks. I just can justify the cost of the billet ones yet, i'm hoping to see some feedback over the next few months. My issues thought have been the end links.
 
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Chio4

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This is the set up I have been running on two vehicles. One is A 23 navigator l IMG_1391.jpeg
 
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