Just bought a 99 EB Expedition

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Ward

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Hi all, I just picked up a 99 Expedition Eddie Bauer, and I'm starting the process of fixing it up. It has 142K miles on it, runs and drives well, and so far only seems to need a few minor things. The air ride has already been replaced with coil springs, but it seems to either be sagging in the rear, or sitting too high in the front. Is there anywhere I can find what the stock ride height should be at the fenderwells? I'm thinking of installing coil spring spacers in the back to bring it up to level.

Also, the passenger valve cover gasket seems to be leaking oil. From what I read it doesn't sound like too hard of a job, is there anything I should look out for? I'm a little hesitant to remove the spark plugs for the job, for fear of messing up the threads in the head. Is there any trick to it, and should I torque the new plugs to something specific?


rgPYLtOh.jpg

More pics at:
Expedition - Imgur
 
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Ward

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that looks super clean. how much did you pay for the car?

I gave $3450 out the door for it, which I think is a good deal. I don't mind having to fix minor things, that's the tradeoff when you buy used cars. I just sold my 95 silverado that I had since 2006, that had 242K on it and still going strong. It's amazing how long trucks will last when you take care of them.
 

FordandPolaris

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It looks right to me. Since the 1st gens have independent front suspension, but a live axle out back, the front fenders had to be cut higher than the rear fenders, since the solid axle does not have as much travel. Consequently most 1st gens look saggy in the rear... You can do like 1" or 2" coil spacers in back to get it to sit more level.

As for the other questions, my passenger valve cover leaks oil as well, but I have never attempted the job. Its been leaking for a long time too. Other things to check off the top of my head, PCV valve. It plugs into the top of the passeger side valve cover and goes back behind the throttle body. The elbow that plugs into the TB is notorious for rotting out and causing rough idle and a check engine light etc. Also be prepared to do front suspension parts soon if they have not already been done. If the ball joints and tie rod ends have grease zerks on them, then you are probably fine as these are most likely aftermarket and have already been replaced. However if they are sealed (no zerk) then they are from the factory and are most likely on their last legs.

There is a section at the top of the 1st gen page here that has many more things to look for.
 
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Ward

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Thanks for the heads up on the ball joints and tierod ends. I will definitely check those when I get the wheels off to inspect the brakes.
 

mrazndead

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the ride height looks about right to me as well. that's how mine sits, but i still have the air ride.

how many miles on the expy?
 
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Ward

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It has a little over 142K. This is my first Ford vehicle (only owned GM trucks before), so I'm not as familiar with the mod motors, but from what I've read they should be able to do 200K as long as they're taken care of. Speaking of, is there a recommended interval for changing the timing chain? I was also looking at navigators from around the same year, and it seems they have issues with the timing chain stretching over time. Do the expedition motors have the same problem?
 

FordandPolaris

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Mine is pushing 215k and has had no engine issues (knocking on my wood table as hard as I can...) The timing chain stretching is a more common problem with the 2nd gens I think. I have heard 2nd gens that clatter like diesels at idle from their timing chains stretching slightly.
 

mrazndead

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yea i plan on babying my ride, 136k, I'm estimating driving about less than 5k a year, and will sell it at 190k, so keep it hopefully 10 years. paid 3k for mine.
 
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Ward

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Well, I have driven it to work every day this week, to try and flush out any problems. Unfortunately, I have definitely flushed out a few.

One problem is that it is stumbling/bucking when taking off from a stop. I replaced the IAC, and it made no difference. I am now thinking it may be one of the coils causing it. I have ordered a set of 8, as well as new plugs, and will try changing them all once they arrive.

The next problem is oil leaking onto the exhaust somewhere, causing a strong oil odor. I degreased the entire top side of the engine hoping to see where it's coming from, but I haven't found it yet. I'm gonna crawl under it with a flashlight tonight and see if I can narrow it down. I'm afraid it might be the head gasket, which apparently is a common problem on these.

Some other things I have found are:
- Odometer intermittently blacks out (common problem, I fixed it by re-soldering a cold solder joint on the back of the cluster)
- Chk Susp warning light (has been converted to coil springs, pulled the bulb while I had the cluster out)
- Heater doesn't blow hot air from front or rear
- Both front seat warmers don't work, DS one lights up, PS one doesn't
- Getting no bass from Mach sound system, I suspect a faulty amp or sub
- Driver seat belt doesn't retract very well

I'm keeping a log of all problems I find, and hope to fix most or all over the next couple months.
 

Lightnig

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Before you go throwing more money and effort at the stumbling/rough running issue, check your codes to make sure that you are not getting the very common P0171 and P0174 codes.

Could simply be the PCV valve/hose assembly...



If you don't have a reader yet, find a nice cheap Elm 327 bluetooth reader that will sync up to a smart phone. Mine cost less than $20 shipped to my door and has worked beautifully.

If nothing else, it's already paid for itself by not having to spend money on gas driving to the parts store to get the codes read
 
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Ward

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Would those codes set the check engine light? I'm not getting a CEL, but maybe I should stop on my way home from work and check for error codes.
 

Lightnig

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generally, yes.

However, i have seen numerous times codes stored without the light coming on.

The only way to know for sure is with a reader.
 
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