2018 XLT. The liftgate will unlock sometimes, other times not. Also, the liftgate wiper doesn't work. Manual liftgate. It also won't close completely requiring multiple attempts to get it to hold. When I push the unlock button on the remote I don't hear anything from the liftgate but do for all the other doors. The front button seems to work better than the remote. Ideas?
Liftgate Problem
- Thread starter Paddler
- Start date
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Still working on this problem. I took the latch out, disconnected the connectors, liberally sprayed it with WD 40 and wiped it down. I tested for voltage across each connector when the lock and unlock remote buttons were pushed, zero volts across both. I then tested the latch itself by connecting the large plug in to the battery. One with just clips on both ends, the other connection with a trouble light. The light came on, which indicates current flowing through the latch, but it didn't activate. I'm a bit confused, but will try a new latch. Any ideas?
clamps
New Member
Hey @Paddler, I just started having very similar problems in my 2018 Expedition Max Platinum. It has a little over 27,000 miles on the odometer.
I haven't experienced any problems with the latch closing, but randomly, pressing the button to activate the power lift gate won't open it. I see the top of the lift gate flex a little, leading me to believe that the actuators are attempting to lift. Therefore I think that the latch isn't trying to or isn't able to release.
I entered the basics of the symptoms into ChatGPT and it had some good insight. I tried resetting/relearning as described in #4, it made no difference. I also tried WD-40 to no avail. I'll also share that my battery is brand new.
I'm going to follow your lead and try to figure out if proper voltage is getting to the latch when needed. I want to try to diagnose if this is a wiring problem or a latch problem.
If you do order a new latch, which part# are you going with?
I'll report back on this thread if I make any progress.
I haven't experienced any problems with the latch closing, but randomly, pressing the button to activate the power lift gate won't open it. I see the top of the lift gate flex a little, leading me to believe that the actuators are attempting to lift. Therefore I think that the latch isn't trying to or isn't able to release.
I entered the basics of the symptoms into ChatGPT and it had some good insight. I tried resetting/relearning as described in #4, it made no difference. I also tried WD-40 to no avail. I'll also share that my battery is brand new.
I'm going to follow your lead and try to figure out if proper voltage is getting to the latch when needed. I want to try to diagnose if this is a wiring problem or a latch problem.
If you do order a new latch, which part# are you going with?
I'll report back on this thread if I make any progress.
My liftgate is manual, so I ordered the appropriate latch:
JL1Z-7443150-A
I also tried resetting it and WD40. No help. I can't even find the fuse as it's not listed in the passenger or engine compartment fuse boxes. Maybe it's under the carpet in the right front passenger area. I called the service department at my dealer and left a message yesterday but he didn't respond.
The wiring looks good, so I'm just going to install the new latch and hope for the best. If that doesn't work I'll just take in in to the dealer and have them fix it. I don't like that prospect as they charge $200/hour, but I figure it's cheaper than buying a new one.
JL1Z-7443150-A
I also tried resetting it and WD40. No help. I can't even find the fuse as it's not listed in the passenger or engine compartment fuse boxes. Maybe it's under the carpet in the right front passenger area. I called the service department at my dealer and left a message yesterday but he didn't respond.
The wiring looks good, so I'm just going to install the new latch and hope for the best. If that doesn't work I'll just take in in to the dealer and have them fix it. I don't like that prospect as they charge $200/hour, but I figure it's cheaper than buying a new one.
Gary Waugh
Full Access Members
The latch requires a couple of amps to operate, your indicator light is lighting up to show current is flowing, but the bulb is only 1 watt or so, so it limits the current (acts like a resistor) to about 100mA (or less) which is not enough for the latch to operate. If you want to check the latch operation you need to connect it directly to the battery terminals, not via your tester light.
Thanks, Gary. I rechecked it connected (somewhat jury-rigged but it worked) to the battery and it seems to work fine. So it's not the latch. but something else. I had previously checked for current at both the terminals and didn't see any while pushing the remote buttons.
Is there a fuse I can check? I didn't see a liftgate latch fuse in the owners manual or online. I found one for the liftgate glass but not for liftgate latch itself. Any other ideas? I'd like to fix it myself.
I once had a problem with the wiring to the right rear wheel, I think on the ABS unit. The harness made a tight turn from the suspension up to the caliper. I found a broken wire or two, which I was able to splice and it's been good for several years. The dealer would have replaced the entire harness and charged $200/ labor.
Is there a fuse I can check? I didn't see a liftgate latch fuse in the owners manual or online. I found one for the liftgate glass but not for liftgate latch itself. Any other ideas? I'd like to fix it myself.
I once had a problem with the wiring to the right rear wheel, I think on the ABS unit. The harness made a tight turn from the suspension up to the caliper. I found a broken wire or two, which I was able to splice and it's been good for several years. The dealer would have replaced the entire harness and charged $200/ labor.
DieselMonk
Full Access Members
Wrong tools. Make yourself a proper load. Take a rear tail light socked (tail light and brake) and get a 2 filament bulb with it. Solder some alligator leads or similar to that. I got mine from a junk yard.
Now you have a proper load. You can use only one filament or both at the same time to increase the power draw.
Then you have to rig this up and figure out is this a remote problem or a wiring problem. Try open door vs closed door etc.
Wiring problem is either always very close to where where the wire goes trough the rubber (door or hatch) into the main body.
Had the same problem with an erratic drivers side front window regulator. It worked, then it didn’t… etc.
Found a broken power wire very close to the rubber boot that goes from the door to the main body. Put a splice in and it is still working fine as kind.
Now you have a proper load. You can use only one filament or both at the same time to increase the power draw.
Then you have to rig this up and figure out is this a remote problem or a wiring problem. Try open door vs closed door etc.
Wiring problem is either always very close to where where the wire goes trough the rubber (door or hatch) into the main body.
Had the same problem with an erratic drivers side front window regulator. It worked, then it didn’t… etc.
Found a broken power wire very close to the rubber boot that goes from the door to the main body. Put a splice in and it is still working fine as kind.
DieselMonk
Full Access Members
Pull on the boot, so it exposes the wires. Or take part of the ceiling down. A lot of things can pass voltage, even your fingers… but current is a different story. In this case you need real current draw, not a little test light.
I tested the latch and it works. I checked the connectors and they didn't pass any current when I triggered the remote. Both indicate a wiring problem, which should be visible on close inspection. The problem is getting exposure.
DieselMonk
Full Access Members
the broken wire could be more in the lift gate than in the body. Usually there is a fastener on each side and to 99% the broken wire is there somewhere. Unless someone did repairs to that hatch due to a collision or something and drilled or cut something (nicked a cable). What you can do first is going to the nearest connector and verify the pins there.
You can buy a onetime wiring diagram from alldata specific to your VIN or have an mechanic friend that gives you a printout and tells you where the connectors are.
You can buy a onetime wiring diagram from alldata specific to your VIN or have an mechanic friend that gives you a printout and tells you where the connectors are.
There have been no repairs to the liftgate. I only took down the lower portion of the trim panel. I suppose if I take the upper portion off I will be able to see the wires. That will be my next move. Way better than paying the dealer $500 plus to fix it.
The plot thickens. I removed all the trim pieces and took the boot down. I couldn't see the wires all the way, there were 20-30 of them, but they looked good. I was unable to check conductivity.
The weird thing is that it seems like driving the car makes the liftgate unlock at times. Also, the interior lights don't come on when a door is opened, maybe they're related?
I wonder if FORscan would help.
The weird thing is that it seems like driving the car makes the liftgate unlock at times. Also, the interior lights don't come on when a door is opened, maybe they're related?
I wonder if FORscan would help.
Last edited:
I downloaded FORScan onto my laptop with the two-month license, plugged my SinoTrack adapter:
into the port, but my laptop doesn't see it when I try to connect to it via Bluetooth. What am I doing wrong?
I scanned it with my phone and there were no ECU faults found. Is there a scanable locking/unlocking module?
into the port, but my laptop doesn't see it when I try to connect to it via Bluetooth. What am I doing wrong?
I scanned it with my phone and there were no ECU faults found. Is there a scanable locking/unlocking module?
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