Looking for input and hoping it isn't timing.

[Honocor]

I am hoping someone here can give me some insight. I have searched high and low and watched most of FordTechMakuloko's videos on the subject but can't find what I have going on.

Some background: 2007 2WD with 204,000 miles running Motorcraft 5w30 for the last 3 oil changes and 5w20 before that.

I was finishing a 2 hour highway drive when the truck went crazy as my wife put it pulling into a parking spot. Multiple misfires, cam/crank correlation code, no power, etc. Drove it cautiously back home and started tearing into it. It was due for an oil change and tune up so I started there. During the last 6500 miles it managed to burn though over half the oil!! I have never had that happen before, and the plugs were all shot even though it should have had about 15,000 more miles based on the 100,000 change mark (changed originally around 125,000). Changed all plugs and coils and the crankshaft position sensor just for S&G. Checked compression also and was sitting in the 165-195 on all cylinders.

Started it up and still have rough idling, struggling with power and what seems like hard shifting. But, only a P0018 code. Mode 06 on my scan tool shows no misfires and no misfire code thrown after multiple drive cycles and warm ups and cool downs. Only the P0018. I changed the VCT on the drivers side (which from what I could find is the P0018 side) about 10,000 miles ago.

I am feeling like it the timing jumped a tooth issue, but everything I have found says you would also have misfires, and hard starts, which I have neither. I was thinking about swapping the camshaft position sensors, but FordTech said those never go bad, so I figured it was time to break down and ask you guys. Thanks for all the help, this forum has been a lifesaver on multiple occasions.

 

[Trainmaster]

There are those who are better versed on this than I, but it sounds possible like a phaser problem. Possibly with the tensioner, phaser actuators or chains. See what others think.

 

[JExpedition07]

I don’t think I’d bother with that engine if it burned 3.5 quarts of oil. Check that PCV and check for leaks before you condemn it though.

 

[Honocor]

I don’t think I’d bother with that engine if it burned 3.5 quarts of oil. Check that PCV and check for leaks before you condemn it though.

I thought the same thing initially. However, no leaks and I did let both the oil change and the tune up ride on too long. Even though it was only about 1500 miles on the oil change. I chocked it up to my laziness and not keeping up with the maintenance.


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[Honocor]

There are those who are better versed on this than I, but it sounds possible like a phaser problem. Possibly with the tensioner, phaser actuators or chains. See what others think.

Dang, that would mean doing a whole timing set up. I really didn’t want to dive in that deep.


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[JExpedition07]

Compression looks good didn’t see that. Well it definitely looks timing related. I did the oil pump, tensioners, and guides last year it was miserable for me but some people don’t say it’s too bad for them. I took a solid week of a few hours per day.

If it jumped timing that would suck, that means your guides are in chunks and the oil pan has to come off. Mine just had the startup rattle so I did it before anything else even came up. Thankfully the guides were all still together so I escaped the oil pan nightmare. Those chains could be loose as a goose but those guides won’t let it jump time now matter how bad the chain is....if it jumped time those guides aren’t there lol.

 

[Honocor]

Those chains could be loose as a goose but those guides won’t let it jump time now matter how bad the chain is....if it jumped time those guides aren’t there lol.[/QUOTE]

So, with that being said, if I pop off the valve cover on the drivers side and the guides are in place and the chains are tight then the timing didn't jump a tooth and it isn't the issue?

On the passenger side I had to swap the valve cover during the tune up because I broke off one of the "ears" where the coils screw into so I checked out the timing stuff and the guides are all still in place and the chain is tight.

 

[Trainmaster]

Phasers or their oil screens?

 

[Plati]

Just asking. Did you or shop do last oil change? When was oil level last checked and what was it?

 

[Honocor]

I did the oil changes, using Motorcraft oil and filter. I never checked it because I never had the issue before. There was always about 7 quarts out and 7 quarts in. I never thought it would be that low until I read a post on here talking about similar problems and changed mine right away. It actually fixed the problem, ran smooth as butter for about 10-15 miles, then started missing and running rough again. That is when I changed the crankshaft position sensor and do the tune-up.

 

[Plati]

Thanks. I just wanted to eliminate the possibility that a shop messed up the oil change.

I only check my oil once after oil change to confirm it was done right. I think I will check it more often now. Where can 3 qts of oil go if not leaked? If it was burned you would see smoke I thought. Blue smoke if I recall.

 

[Honocor]

Thanks. I just wanted to eliminate the possibility that a shop messed up the oil change.

I only check my oil once after oil change to confirm it was done right. I think I will check it more often now. Where can 3 qts of oil go if not leaked? If it was burned you would see smoke I thought. Blue smoke if I recall.

That is what I thought too. I park in the same spot at work and at home. No drips at all at either place. My spark plugs were absolutely trashed so in my mind I was thinking it must have just burned through it little by little I guess.


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[Honocor]

So I popped the drivers side valve cover off and everything looks good. Chain is tight and clean.

If the cam phaser is bad would it be noticeable like it having movement or visible damage? Because mine had neither.

Grabbed some intake cleaner and cleaned the VCT solenoid, some MAF cleaner and did that also. Pulled the Cam Position sensors and the drivers was not registering anything on an ohm meter (based on what I can find they should be near 300) and the passengers side would not come out. It actually broke in half leaving part in the head. I was able to get it out and am now putting it back together with new cam sensors and everything clean.

Will update tomorrow. Thank you all for the help.

 

[tommyddsr]

If you are burning that much oil you will definitely have black oily residue at the exhaust tip. If it is clean you aren't burning it.

 

[pitdexion]

Try to turn cam with a wrench. If it moves, the pin in phaser isn't locking the cam to gear. Oil consumption could be pcv valve(part of left valve cover), incorrect pcv hose routings or stuck oil rings. Pull dipstick out while running and see if any vacuum. Should be none.

 

[Honocor]

I swapped the VVT solenoid on the drivers side. It was an aftermarket that I replaced about 2 years ago and apparently went bad again. Both cam sensors were replaced and I slapped it all back together. So far so good, I have about 60 miles with no issues. Finally got Mode 06 data last night and it shows good numbers.

I ordered the BG engine cleaner that I will run through once it arrives.

Still unsure about the oil. I don't have any residue at the tip and still no smoking so I am not sure where it went. I will keep an eye on it checking it frequently. Maybe it was just an anomaly LOL.

Thank you all again for the help.