Lower Ball Joints question

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JamaicaJoe

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At 93K miles My 2001 drivers side LBJ is worn. I will need to replace both sides.

1) Thoughts on MOOG vs OEM? I would prefer having a Zerk fitting. Suggestions?

2) LBJ vs LCA assembly replacement on both sides. Cost differential?
 

lonestarjeff

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I opted for Moog lowers(new ball joint & original control arm) & Moog UCA assemblies. The lowers still look good after 8 years, but the rubber boots on the uppers didn't last beyond 5 years.
 

Trainmaster

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The Moog products I've bought in the past two years have been junk. It's not the Moog we knew. I just bought an OEM ball joint for my Explorer, made in Canada as opposed to Moog's China. My only gripe with Motorcraft is that it doesn't include a new snap ring.

Why would you change both sides? And why change the control arms? That's not high mileage and your bushings should still be fine.
 

Hamfisted

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It's just a 2 wheel drive model right ? At that vehicle age I would opt for a complete lower control arm assembly from AC Delco, Delphi, Motorcraft. On Rock Auto the AC Delco units are only about $70 for each lower arm complete. Unless you're doing the work yourself you'll pay a shop $100 per side just for the ball joint installation alone ( plus parts ...).


2001 Expedition Control Arm Assemblies at Rock Auto





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JamaicaJoe

JamaicaJoe

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Thanks all. I will opt for just changing the one worn LBJ part. Thanks for the warning on Moog. Too bad.
 
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JamaicaJoe

JamaicaJoe

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Well the one LBJ morphed into two LBJ's and two UCA's plus some Michelin Defender LTX s. There were new front brake pads and rotors required as well. I cant say any of it was a surprise looking back at my service records and "my deferred maintenance". It is now handling superbly. The parts are Moog and the LBJ's have zerk fittings which makes 9 grease points. My old Moog tie rods are still doing fine with periodic greasing.

I do have a question about alignment. The manager of the shop said to let it break in and he would check the alignment again. I suspect this is because it was aligned with the original ratty tires and rims. I had requested alignment with new tires and OEM rims but the tires arrived very late in the day.

However aside from the steering wheel being slightly off center to the right, it is running straight and true and tire temperatures are cool and even across the width of the tires. This being mostly driving in town.

Questions:
The cold tire pressure measured on my gauge is about 38-39 all around. The shop said they set front and rear at 35. The door sticker says 30 in front. I am getting a new gauge to confirm.

Should I run 35 all around? How does that affect alignment settings?

The technician said that my camber is just barely in spec that a "wedge" had been used previously and that now a "camber kit" is required. Is my BS gauge overreacting? Sounds like the shop wants to sell me some marked up kit to make up for a free second alignment.

The Michelin Defender LTX s seem to hum a bit at 35 MPH and above. Not greatly, but it sort of comes on at once. Normal?
 

Trainmaster

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Here's my take on this Jamaica; just my opinions:

Manufacturers usually suggest tire pressures in the low range. That gives a softer ride, less rattling and warranty complaints. You can probably go with 35 psi all around if you prefer a harder ride. At 38 psi it may be noisy and hard. Higher pressure will get slightly better mileage and probably handle better on the highway. It won't affect the alignment.

You should look up the Ford specs and watch the alignment process. See what camber the mechanic is getting. If it's out of spec, you need the kit, which is just a bolt and eccentric cam. It allows the top of the wheel to be moved in and out. He'll probably charge $150; his cost is $20 - $40 plus labor. If the camber is within the factory specs, you don't need it. If you need it and don't get it the inside or outside of the tire will wear and it may handle a bit squirrely.

The steering wheel should be centered. That's just adjusting the tie rod ends. That "toe" alignment which does this can also be a cause of your tire noise. They'll take care of that hopefully on the second go-around.

My Defenders on the 2008 are silent. My 2000 used to be pretty quiet too with Generals. It could be an alignment but it could also be just plain front end noise or what the tires do. You can read tire reviews on one of the tire sites and see if others notice the same thing on Expeditions and Suburbans. Try going down to the 30 psi and see if that helps too. The all-time 4wd versions made a bit more noise than the transfer case that was part-time. Any more than a hum could be a bearing, but that will let you know as the months pass.

Congratulations on all the work. Nice to have a good riding truck. Those early ones are fantastic. I miss mine every day.
 
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JamaicaJoe

JamaicaJoe

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Thanks Eddie; I will look for the alignment specs and stick around for the process. I would prefer a bit higher tire pressure in the fronts. I have been monitoring the tire temperature across the tires and they are fairly cool and within a degree inside outside and center so that seems to be indicating things are close. I will be taking it on a high speed run today and check again.

It is a very nice truck and I would like to enjoy it a bit longer. I have rust in two places, the roof has surface rust from the sun baking off the paint and the radiator support is a mess. If I can get those fixed reasonably and a decent repaint, I will keep it a while. They really don't make them like this any more and the 4.6L 2V engine seems bulletproof.
 

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