mistreated 97 EB

[FaSoldier]

Alright... Sooo I had to buy a vehicle quickly for my spur of the moment acceptance of a job offer, ended up with a 97 expy, the outside isn't TOO bad a little dings here and there but it is what it is. the inside is what sucks.

1) interior lights (dome lights) are non existent except for one lol gague cluster has a light or 2 out
2) WORM gear is done, it has a mechanical odometer that wasn't working at the time of purchase odm stopped at 150k miles but no way of telling how many miles are on the motor
3) steering wheel has some serious wear and tear along with the dash
4)most of the speakers are blown
5)seats have some wear and the power seats can be a hit or miss to actuate -_-
6) rear vent windows also a hit and miss with the left side not working at all
7) cables for the rear hatch and glass are broken (the rubber grommet)
8)steering and suspension are floaty and loose
9) under heavy acceleration throttle response is a dog (maybe a cable issue?)
10) going uphill idk if its a misfire or hesitation but theres a slight struggle

lol and my top ten problems any advice?

 

[Kwik SC]

Sounds like the truck needs a good tune up and some TLC. Its just matter of taking apart and replacing the worn out components I think. Now that all the interior and gauge lights are out its the perfect time to upgrade everything to LED's. Gauge cluster is fairly simple to pull to swap the bulbs out. I have a drivers side power seat that im about to throw out. If it turns out your motor or any component is no good I might be able to just pull out stuff from that seat and send it to you. The floaty suspension sounds you might need a bunch of front end work (shocks, bushing, tie rods).

 

[FaSoldier]

A tune up is definitely needed, replaced the PVC and a cracked radiator last week but moving to a new state and being strapped for cash from the move really put a hurting on me.

I'm not sure were to find certain OEM parts like the panel for the speakers in the cargo area so homework is needed, I'm not sure how to tell if the motor for the driver seat is bad, every now and again it would move one way then stop other times wont move at all and certain positions wont move period. If that's the case and you are able to ship that I would sincerely appreciate it, if I cannot find a seat replacement because the seat is worn out bad. I'll take pics in a bit to show off the abuse lol smh

 

[FaSoldier]

 

[0xowner]

I'd concentrate on performance first... Necessities or functionality before nice to have or looks.

Sounds like a lot of items... Did you buy it from a car lot or private party? Any info of pervious maintain? Like plugs?

Any good junk yards near you?

May be good to have a plan such as keep this running for 6 months, save more money and keep an eye out there for something newer and in better shape.

I think you can find a 2000-2002 between 2000 and 3000 under 140k. Just takes a little patience.

 

[FaSoldier]

Got the vehicle from a no no place is WNC called Appalachian motors. I didn't have a choice really, considering that I wasn't expecting to receive the job offer that I did. Being fairly new to the area I don't know of any good junk yards. At this point I'm considering the best course of action is to do as you mentioned and maintain this vehicle until its paid off (3k to go) and I'm financially stable to get another

 

[tcwaltz]

Honestly if the frame and body are in decent shape you can just about fix it for what something newer my cost. I just got done completely redoing a 2000 EB and that included the motor. Total cost with the tools I needed a new reman motor I'm sitting at $5800.

 

[FaSoldier]

I am mechanically inclined, as I went to tech school to be a mechanic. Only problem is I don't have tools or a lift so I need to depend on a shop for all of those needs I guess the following weekend I'll look at the undercarriage, anything in particular I need to look for while I'm under?

 

[tcwaltz]

Ebay is really your best friend when it comes to finding OEM body parts. I've found damaged interior lighting, visors and most anything you need. The good thing is that there was a ton of these made so its easy to find new and used parts.

One thing you'll find on these is rust. I have found that some really crusty rust that may look like something it totally toast can be wired brushed and not look that bad.

Mine had about 249K on it. Since I had air ride both rear bags were shot. Since the compressor worked and I got a pair for about $110 bux I just swapped them out. The bushings for the sway bars were shot front and back so i replaced them. Biggest thing to look at from a safety standpoint is going to be the ball joints. All 4 of mine were shot. I replaced the lowers and got control arms for the upper because the difference in price between the control arm and the ball joint wasnt' worth me messing with it.
As far as tools go. Pick up a cheap set of sockets from Harbor Freight. I'm using a professional series set that I got for around 35 bux and a torque wrench I got there. Now I did invest a few bux in a nice jack, I bought a lift because it made more sense than renting and I bought an engine stand. Again, cheaper than renting. I do have alot of craftsman tools as well. The good thing is that anything major you need you can likely get loaned from any of the major parts houses in town. I used the ball joint press, the pit man arm puller, fan clutch tool and the wrench set all for free (just put the price off the tool on your credit card and they refund when you return it).

So far on my 2000:
Replaced the engine
Done brakes, ball joints, sway bar bushings all the way around. Upper control arms.
New head lights and fog lights.
New power steering pump, power steering pump, power steering primary line.
Coolant bypass tube (found a Ford re-seller on Amazon, don't bother with the Dorman it will not fit). Rock Auto has the o rings you need.
Had my alternator rebuilt (new bears and brushes) saved $20 doing that.
New COPS (again ECCPP set from Amazon, decent reviews and they are workign fine).
Bosch Platinum 2 plugs (snagged them at $2 each on clearance from Walmart).
Dorman Intake (you likely have aluminum vs the plastic)

If you have to pull a motor let me know I can tell you what I learned about doing it. If you have to do anything with ball joints, tie rod ends etc, you need a pitman arm puller. If they try to loan you anything else you are wasting your time.

90% of the major parts I got I purchased from Rock Auto or Summit Racing. If you spent over $99 shipping is free from Summit. I check both places and see what works out the best. I did about 50/50 from those places. Unless you are just in a pinch I'd avoid buying from Oreilly, Autozone or Advance just because of the cost along.

I bought the lower ball joints from Summit and Rock Auto. $23, exact same part at the other places was $46.

 

[Hit By Thunder]

Hey FAsoldier, like said above, concentrate on the mechanicals and the looks come in time. Time away from work/down time when money is low is waxing and polishing time. Thats what I did and do with my 97 expy Aka Betty. Mine was way more worse than yours and has come along way, still lots to do. A local wrecking yard where you pull the parts is a must.

Make a list of parts needed and wanted and when you go to the wreckers check them off as you get the parts.

also for tools, check at pawnshops great tools for cheap prices. A tool kit for at the wreckers can include needed tools individually picked out. Like leave out the 9, 14, 16, 17 mm sockets sorta thing