armoredsaint
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So I am out of my Ford Pass Rewards, any real reason to still take it there for oil changes, I usually just do it myself at home with Mobil 1 and what's the best way to document the proof of a DIY oil change?
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Lol I steam and dress (yes I’m rhat OCD) my engine bay about 4 times a year, one time I had done it 2 days prior to taking it in for something. When I went to pick it up the service technician was standing with the service manager at my checkout lane and he actually apologized for getting his fingerprints on the engine cover. He was so worried bc he tried to fix it and didn’t have any type of dressing to put back in after he wiped his prints off.I had an oil change at a local Ford dealer and the monkey who changed my oil made a big mess on the frame. Oil was spilled everywhere. I used the Fumoto valve and they said it cause oil pressure issue when I brought my Exp for cam phaser replacement in June lol.
@armoredsaint do it yourself. Prices at stealership are going up and almost double what it would cost you on your own. Buy your oil and filter, write down on the receipt the mileage you changed the oil at and in what day and keep the receipt for your records. Maybe scan it to yourself as a pdf. That’s what I do. My dealership wants almost $90 for full synthetic oil change and I can do it for about $40 in 30 minutes. Super easy
30 minutes? Do you use a lift? ramps? a jack?
Looking for tips. I want to start doing my own, but I don't wriggle around under a vehicle as well as I used to.
I use a set of ramps since it makes it easier to remove the skid plates and it also allows the oil from the filter area to only drain out the back port of the little catch tray. The first time I changed it without ramps, oil ran out in two places from the little oil filter drain catch tray.30 minutes? Do you use a lift? ramps? a jack?
Looking for tips. I want to start doing my own, but I don't wriggle around under a vehicle as well as I used to.
Yes, the ramps cause the filter oil to drain out the back. I put a funnel with a tube up under the drain ‘port’ either right into the container, or a pan.I use a set of ramps since it makes it easier to remove the skid plates and it also allows the oil from the filter area to only drain out the back port of the little catch tray. The first time I changed it without ramps, oil ran out in two places from the little oil filter drain catch tray.
I use a set of ramps since it makes it easier to remove the skid plates and it also allows the oil from the filter area to only drain out the back port of the little catch tray. The first time I changed it without ramps, oil ran out in two places from the little oil filter drain catch tray.
The "oil catch tray" (a misnomer if there ever was one) under the filter is the most ridiculous design I've ever seen. I have to have a large pan that covers both sides to make sure I don't get oil all over the place. Additionally, even if I do catch all the oil before it hits the floor it gets all over the chassis components when dripping out the back side. That is just taking the filter off. If you are like me and pre fill the new filter with oil before installation, good luck getting it on without getting a nice coating of new oil in the same places as the old.I may buy some ramps. I am a beefy dude.