Oil - from regular to synthetic

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Ryan Moose

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Just picked up the Expedition a few weeks ago, and since i know very little of its history and have no service records, swapping out the fluids..

My question - Has anyone had issues when changing from regular oil to synthetic?

I did this on my Wrangler a few years ago (odometer said 157,000 miles at the time), and had no ill effects.

I had been warned that often times when switching from regular to synthetic, since synthetic does have the wax like regular does, leaks often start. I didn't experience this with the Jeep. No leaks whatsoever.

So, regular to synthetic? Leaks? Thoughts?

Thanks guys.
 

alaskanexpy

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i bought my '98 5.4 in 2010 with 63k on the clock. i switched to mobile 1 synthetic ever since and have had no issues what so ever. i say go for it!
 

Captain Morgan

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Go with any reputable Full Synth rated for your climate and mileage and never look back.

Be sure to buy an oil filter with an anti-drainback valve.

I know it's cold as a witches $#! in Michigan and if it were me I would add little Marvel Mystery Oil to the crank case and gas tank ea fill up.

If you're about to shop for these products grab a fuel filter and cheap 5\16 wrench you'll need to change it, located under the read drivers side door along the frame rail.

.
 

docraymund

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Synthetic oil is more suitable for newer vehicles wherein internal engine tolerances are still near factory blueprint specs. For older ones where bearing clearances are increased due to wear, regular oil seems more suitable .
 
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Ryan Moose

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Thanks for the input guys.

I've been running Mobile 1 full-synth High Mileage and it seems to do a good job. Jeep now has 220,000+ miles with no issues, and call me crazy but the synthetic did seem to make a difference.

Unless anyone has any reasons not to, I'll probably just go for that. Same weight? 5w40?
 

Captain Morgan

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5w30 is just fine

Most all mfr have oil recommended for older or high mileage vehicles.

I bought this at the subscribe and save price and will use it again: Valvoline VV179 MaxLife Synthetic SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil - 1 Quart (Case of 6)


If you look at the specs on the Marvel you see it's viscosity etc and high burn temperature. I put it in the crankcase @ < 10% and some in the gas so the upper cylinder walls get lubricated on the upstroke. The only reason I wouldn't use MMO would be if I had an oil leak.


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Ryan Moose

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Thanks Captain!

On the way to the store and will do as you suggest. I appreciate your input.
 

superexpy

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I put moble1 fully synthitic in everthing and never had a problem. I even use it in my 79 motorhome with a mopar 440.
 

superexpy

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I put royal purple in my expedition and SHO at the sametime and my expy loved it but my SHO stated to leak and smoke on start up so I switch back to Moble1 in both and the issues with my car went away.
 
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Ryan Moose

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Well, picked up the oil, filter, and marvel mystery oil as suggested. Came home, crawled under to assess the situation, and thought "what on earth was ford thinking?"

Filter placement is awesome... :rolleyes:

Tips/tricks/tools to get at the filter? Can you even get a filter wrench on that??

Thanks again for all the advice guys. Very much appreciated.
 
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Ryan Moose

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Oh, forgot to add, I recently had shoulder surgery (of my right shoulder, and yes, I'm right handed). Very limited range of motion in the right arm, and strength only around 50%.

THAT is why any tips/tricks would be a game changer for me.

Thanks as always!
 

Captain Morgan

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What year and engine is you ride? My oil filter is right in front of the drivers front tire. It really couldn't get easier to get to unless it were relocated to the front of the bumper.

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Ryan Moose

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Hey Captain, forgot to mention that.

2000 XLT 5.4

At a quick glance, and admittedly that's all it was, there looked like all kinds of stuff in the way..
 

whowey

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Are you guys doing oil analysis with that MMO in the oil??


It contains both Mineral Spirits and Naphtha which are pretty powerful solvents.

But a third ingredient... Ortho-dichlorobeneze... that will become Chlorine inside of an engine. Chlorine will attack the copper content of the oil rings. In moderation that will make the compression increase slightly in older motors as the rings will reseal a bit. Over time, though it will cause them to degrade.

I will openly admit, I am generally anti-oil additive. The serve some purpose in moderation. But there is nothing in an additive bottle that is magic.

Start with good oil and you don't need them.
 

jacks3am

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I did the switch to synthetic at about 169000 miles and I went with mobile 1 0W-30 and its one of the best things ive done! The engine now runs smoother, quieter, and seems to just run better overall! 0w-30 is greaaatttt for cold starts too!
 
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Ryan Moose

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Alright guys, had a little time this afternoon so quick did the change.

Not sure what kind of tiny hands/arms some of you must have, but that filter was a beeeotch to get at..

Boy was that oil DARK.. Glad to get that crap outa my engine.

In went the new Mobile 1 5w30 Synthetic.

Also, did use the Motorcraft filter, and Marvel as suggested.

Thanks again for the suggestions from everyone. She's sounding nice and smooth.
 

Captain Morgan

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Additives aren't everyone's cup of tea, and there are buttload to chose from from for gas and oil. Some state they provide better lubrication, some clean the fuel lines and crank case . . . mileage varies.

I've used everything from GUNK to MMO and plenty more on older engines. If your oil is no longer sludgy and your injectors are new and the low mileage vehicle has tight compression, then sure, why muss up a good thing.


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Ryan Moose

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Agreed Captain.

I've used Seafoam, Lucas products, Marvel, you name it.. Who knows which is best.. I know I sure don't..

After seeing the oil that came out of this thing, I figured it could use a little something that might help clean it out a bit. Then next time I change the oil may not add any, we'll see..
 
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