Problem after Problem!! Replacing Plugs, on a 4.6L

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NemesisNJ

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Ok so I had a hesitation going up an incline between 40-50mph. Everywhere I went stated it was the TPS. Got a new TPS, took hours to get the screws out, horrible!! As soon as I fixed that the problem got worse, and it finally threw a code. Cylinder 4 misfire. 1st I replaced the ignition coil, #4. Problem went away for a day and came back, same cylinder. I replaced the ignition coil cause Ford has a nasty problem with water run off right onto cyl. 4/8 and killin the coil. This time I replaced the plug, problem went away. This was all in 2 weeks. Finally I got around to replacing the other 7 plugs. All were easy but #7, there's a filter of some sort on the fuel rail, which covers completely the coil screw. So I pulled the wires away from the block which is easy since they attached to a plastic harness and thats snapped onto a screw on the valvle cover. Got under it with a 7mm wrench and finally got it removed. Cylinder 5 though you do need to remove the support bracket for the power steering reservoir. Cylinders 4/8 you need a "whobbler" extension. And yes in each cylinder after you take out the coils blast each one with air, tons of crap in them. It would be wise to hit the cylinders with air b4 doing any of this as well, getting any loose crap off ahead of time so it doesn't fall in while replacing the plugs.

Now for a new problem only 2 weeks later. Saturday I went out for a bit and came home, then we got hit with a severe thunderstorm. Got in my truck late Sunday nite and it started fine, but had a rough idle. Seemed to hesitate in Park and in Drive, idle actually kicked down, made it 3 miles from my house and started losing power going up hill again. Then it threw a Check Engine Lite. That went off when I got to the top of the hill. Still ran like crap for the other 5 miles of my ride. Parked it, sat for a few hours, started it up and it still ran like crap. Got 60 feet out of the parking lot I was in, and the CEL came back on. It wreaks like rotten eggs, everyone says it's the Cats, and we all have 4, on the Expo. Now it's process of elimination. Already found a direct fit, replacement, with both cats, and tubing pre-assembled on Ebay, from an auto parts store $260 shipped. NAPA wants $600-$730 per side. You have a passenger and driver side assembly each side has 2 cats.

Got an ActronCP9175 OBD II reader on the way. Got the parts bookmarked. Just wanna check the codes first. B4 I start spending more time and money on this. Looking for any other ideas in the meantime.
 

ELVATO

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If you want sound, you could go with Magnaflow Hi-flow cats. I think you only need one per side, so 2 total. Search around on F150online, that's what some people have done. They're like 70 each on performancepeddler.com.

Also, when you take off your old cats, you could try selling them at a scrap metal place. See if you can get some money out of that.
 

toomanytoys

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When my truck pulled the same thing I found the problem by accident. There is a group of 3 grounds behind the drivers headlight on the side of the radiator support. You have to remove the headlight to see them. If they are cruddy the truck will do what you are describing. I was installing a hid kit and I disturbed the grounds in the process, and the truck started doing the same thing. When I cleaned the ground and put the wires back the problem went away. As for the rotten egg smell-- that could also be the battery as these newer cats dont really make smells anymore. The old platinum beds used to stink but the monolith used today are usually pretty good HTH.
 

Tom Nugler

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It's imparative that any faults which have triggered a MIL be repaired before assuming the cats are faulty. The investment in a decent scanner will be paid back after a couple of repairs.
Smelly cats are almost always related to incorrect fuel mixtures, misfires and crappy, sulfer laden fuel.
Are you aware of Top Tier Fuels? http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
35 years as a Euro import tech and I still don't maintain my daily drivers. My POS GTI with 260k doesn't have injector or carbon issues because I never put in cheap fuel. At 3.20 a gallon what's a few cents.
Fix whatever generated your fault codes and work from there.

Tom.
 
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NemesisNJ

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Hey guys thanks for all your help. Here's the ironic part. After getting seriously frustrated, I pulled the ground cable from the batt, and let it sit for 90minutes. Put the ground back on and no codes, no more rough idle or codes.

Did some research online, and someone else who did what I did, putting Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank after a fill up, stated the same problems on an F250 with roughly the same mileage. It burnt out the carbon, throwing o2 sensor codes etc. Thats the only thing, I see that could've been the issue. After the reset I haven't had the issues I had or thrown any codes.
 
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