Rancho Quick lift with Readylift spacer on top???

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I have a 2008 ford expedition and I have the readylift spacer lift and im running 35's and my front two struts are toasted. Ford is going to charge me 840$ for just the front two struts, but the front and rear struts from rancho are 840$ for front and rear. Obviously the smarter thing to do here is get the ranchos for better drive quality and for the price but I was curious if anyone here has put the readylift ontop of the rancho quick struts.... im sure its possible but has anyone here done it? I know the ranchos give it a tiny bit of lift but I need to still be able to run my 35's. if anyone has some knowledge please share, I really would like to upgrade the drive quality and still have the readylift
 

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I know a lot of people are going to chime in here with lot more technical explanations, but from post that I've read and research you would be ill-advised to put the spacers on top of the Ranchero lift shocks. I believe it creates too much of a angle on the rest of the components i e your ball joints and tie rods. I would also believe that you have to replace all of your brake lines.

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Ready lift paired with the quicklift will certainly put some of your complements out of a decent working geometry. One is already stretching it with spacers alone.


Just swap your factory shocks for a set of Bilsteins.

https://www.stage3motorsports.com/2007-2014-Expedition-Suspension-Upgrades.html

Shop around likely can find them cheaper on Amazon.

You’re looking at about $350 for the set. You’ll still use the ready lift and have a better quality product than Rancho.
 

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Didnt a bunch of brands traditionally run rebates on shocks in october?

Expect just-shocks to run you like 250-350 for all four corners, and complete assemblies to be 600-800
 
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welp, the dealership the truck is at went ahead and ordered them. what exactly is it going to mess up parts wise?
 
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I can always get them to cancel the order and get shocks instead which would be cheaper, but it seemed like they said the coils were pretty beat so it was gonna have to be a new strut
 

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welp, the dealership the truck is at went ahead and ordered them. what exactly is it going to mess up parts wise?

Your ball joints mainly will wear much faster.

I would highly suggest getting some aftermarket control arms as that will correct much of the issue for the front which is the biggest concern. You are down south so not much road salt a Uniball will work nicely for you.
 
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what brand would you recommend for control arms? I was planning on selling the truck but I think im gonna keep it now that its gonna have a new suspension and be a bit taller

Your ball joints mainly will wear much faster.

I would highly suggest getting some aftermarket control arms as that will correct much of the issue for the front which is the biggest concern. You are down south so not much road salt a Uniball will work nicely for you.
 

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Since you will be fine with a Uniball I would go with ICON. Only downfall is Uniballs can get a little noisy over time.

We have lots of road salt here so a Uniball is a no go so from my reading I will be going with BDS as the use a beefed up standard style Moog ball joint.
 
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what exactly is uniball?
I was looking at icon control arms and they are pretty pricey, was just curious if there was another brand that would be suitable for it and wouldn't be close to 900$
 
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gotcha, well I guess thats what ill be saving up for, but in the mean time everything should be fine with the ready lift ontop of the ranchos
 

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gotcha, well I guess thats what ill be saving up for, but in the mean time everything should be fine with the ready lift ontop of the ranchos

It will work. You will just run through ball joints at a faster rate.
A serious pot hole could damage you at a much quicker rate so just be prepared for that.

Post some pictures when you are done. I'll be interested in how it looks height wise.
 
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gotcha, so driving down a dirt road could potentially ruin it? but once I get new upper control arms it will be better?
 

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Pretty sure there were F150 UCAs for lifted trucks in the $70-100 range... should fit perfectly, iirc expedition uses the same part number UCAs as certain F150 years
 

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gotcha, so driving down a dirt road could potentially ruin it? but once I get new upper control arms it will be better?

With that much combined lift a decent sized pot hole could do it.
Doesn’t mean it will for sure but you are increasing your chances.

New upper control arms get the geometry back to where it should be after lifting and utilizes beefed up ball joint that can take more abuse.

Pretty sure there were F150 UCAs for lifted trucks in the $70-100 range... should fit perfectly, iirc expedition uses the same part number UCAs as certain F150 years

Yup, one will have to buy F150 arms but they are the same as the Expedition.
www.1aauto.com has good vehicle cross reference charts for each part.
If you could point me in the direction of quality UCAs I would be surprised. The upgraded ball joints alone will run you that much.
 

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So what is the difference between an expedition upper control arm and F150 for a lifted truck UCA

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The video at the top explains it pretty well.

But the aftermarket control arm compensates for the geometry change where the ball joint mounts to the knuckle. The changes allow for more movement/articulation.
Some use uniball or ICON also has a delta joint which allows for a lot more movement reducing stress on that connection.
Those with standard ball joints use beefed up components and some have a longer shaft to compensate for the lift.
 

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So what is the difference between an expedition upper control arm and F150 for a lifted truck UCA

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F150 = Expedition , same original part.

Now F150, due to being the most popular vehicle for lifting purposes, like, ever, has a bunch of aftermarket options for correcting the suspension geometry with an N-inch lift so it isn't strained and doesn't wear out prematurely... just most of these never mention compatibility with Expedition anywhere in the literature and don't pop up in searches
 
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