My rear defroster tab came off. I bought one of those kits to fix it. The first crack at it didn't hold so I tried again. This time the supposedly conductive epoxy held. However, the current can't get through it. I had to use more of it the second time as the tab didn't seat all that well. I can test that there is voltage at it but it doesn't make it to the grid lines. Any suggestions on what to do next? I was thinking a drop of melted lead should get it working again though maybe there's a better option.
Rear Defroster Tab Issue
- Thread starter Jay Dubs
- Start date
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99WhiteC5Coupe
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Frost Fighter Defroster Tab and Connector Replacements
Troubleshoot and repair automotive rear window defrosters, fix defroster tabs
frostfighter.com
5280tunage
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these things are notoriously crappy. Mine have fallen off twice, with one full window replacement. It's a really poor design, which is funny, it's not like liftglass assemblies with defrosters are a new thing, all you have to do is repeat previous designs without skimping on materials and workmanship to improve profitability. I've also read some horror stories of people trying solder methods on this glass, but it is by far the most reliable connection.
Funny my 2018 both side fell off in the 2nd and 4th year, first tab the dealer fixed it but fell off in a year, now the 2nd tab fell off after warranty and my dealer does not want to touch it in fear of shattering the glass. I was able to fix the first tab (After their repair) with the Permatex kit, now the 2nd one was using the same kit except I get no conductivity this round. I might have to use the frost fighter kit to get more conductivity since they have silver in their mix....
All and All, my F150 defrost failed in 4 years with the rear glass rarely opened, and now this damn SUV broke multiple times in 4 years, Ford needs to address their crap built and design, this aint acceptable to their built tough BS.
Oh, my Expedition has rear main seal leaked twice in 4 years as well. fml.
All and All, my F150 defrost failed in 4 years with the rear glass rarely opened, and now this damn SUV broke multiple times in 4 years, Ford needs to address their crap built and design, this aint acceptable to their built tough BS.
Oh, my Expedition has rear main seal leaked twice in 4 years as well. fml.
5280tunage
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If you're going to try the repair again, you might try cleaning the two contact points. Maybe if you have a Dremel, use one of the really small wire wheels and try just cleaning off both sides first, to see if that helps create a better connection.
duneslider
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I wonder if low temp solder paste and a hot air solder gun would work? I think you can get low temp solders that melt around 300 degrees. That would seem safer than a soldering iron that is 500 plus degrees.
5280tunage
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the only thing I've read, is that anyone trying this, is that its highly suggested that you use a heat gun and heat up a large area of the glass around the contacts, hoping that the temperature shock will be much less, reducing the chances of damage. But it just seems like a mess! I'm curious, has anyone gone to a body shop or glass shop? they may be able to do it with much less risk.
