Replace rear LCA ball joints

[peterwells]

Hi,

This forum has helped me with a number of issues so I figured time to give a little back. if anyone has definitive torque values I'd appreciate it.

Car in question is a 2008 EL with 175kmiles, the symptoms are some shaking at speed and doesn't track well on poor road surfaces, wheels are balanced and tires are new. I looked through the front end and didn't see anything wrong so took it for a check up and they showed that the rear ball joints (on lower control arms) and rear stabilizer bushings and links were worn. I purchased Motorcraft parts (~$180).

I'm posting this because the online instructions I found made this job look a lot more difficult than it is, they show removing the hub which is not necessary, in fact the job is quite straightforward just remove the lower control arm (LCA) and press in a new ball joint. The shop wanted around $350 in labor, I took my time and recon it's a five hour job to do both sides.

Key points…

(i) I rented (loaned) the first three tools below and included the torque wrench for reference, all from AutoZone…
(a) Ball joint press - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...int-and-u-joint-press-set-23-piece/449947_0_0
(b) Tie rod end separator set - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...werbuilt-tie-rod-end-separator-set/449957_0_0
(c) Axel nut socket set - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...-point-axle-nut-socket-set-8-piece/787749_0_0
(d) Torque wrench - https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...2in-drive-adjustable-torque-wrench/555599_0_0

(ii) The suspension bolts are tight, 250+ ft lbs, so you'll need extensions, breaker bar, etc

(iii) The weight of the car has to be on the suspension before torqueing the LCA bolts, given that I didn't have a lift I measured the position of the hub center when loaded and used the jack to lift the arm before torqueing (there are pictures below).

(iv) The car is in Houston and there was not a lot of corrosion, things came apart pretty easily.

Details…

• With the car sat on the ground measure the distance from wheel arch to the center of the hub (in my case it was 20.5"), you're going to need that to load up the suspension before torqueing the LCA bolts later on. Note the wheel center cap is removed in the photo but there's no need to do that.

• Remove wheel, I also removed the brake caliper to replace the pads
• Remove the nut from the ball joint stud that goes through the hub, separate ball joint with fork (mine took some pounding but nothing extreme)

 

[peterwells]

• Press out the old ball joint, press in the new - make sure it's fully seated before replacing the circlip, I don't know how important it is but the tabs on the clip were facing out, the clip is big so regular needle nosed pliers worked to remove it.

Control arm with new ball joint, ready for reassembly.

 

[peterwells]

I used the floor jack to help position push the LCA back into position and to compress the strut so the bolts could be inserted.

• With the ball joint stud torqued (I wasn't able to find what the torque should be but it took around 90 ft lbs to loosen) and the two bolts (hinge and bottom of the strut) in but not torqued, lift the LCA to put it back in the normal position per earlier measurements.

Now go ahead and torque the LCA bolts - see below for values.

• Replace the wheel, all done.

The only other points I'd add are…

• If I'd known the car had been in the mud I'd have pressure washed it before starting.
• I wasn't able to find a good drawing for a 2008 expedition rear suspension showing the different torque values and some of the text listings were not clear to me, see https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/suspension-torque-specifications.9212/ . I ended up at 250 ft lbs for the LCA hinge and lower strut bolts. If someone has the correct values pls post.
• I haven't got the alignment done yet but fingers crossed it'll drive better
• I did replace the stabilizer bushings and links, straightforward.

Peter