Has anyone replaced all the components of their a/c system and how hard it is? I have a substantial leak in my '98 EB system. I've tried stop leak with dye to find leak, but no luck. Freon is out in one week. Any advice would be appreciated.
REPLACE WHOLE A/C ASSEMBLY
- Thread starter cjennjr
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
Did you use the black light to search for the leak? If not it is very hard to see the dye. One spot people overlook are the service ports.
Savannah Dan
Active Member
Black light with the yellow glasses. Don't forget to forget to check the end of the evaporator drain line. If you can't find the leak it is probably the evaporator that is leaking.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
I don't use the yellow glasses, don't see a difference with or with out them. Front seal on the compressor is a known leak point on an aged unit also.
If you don't see the dye then it is time to get the sniffer out.
If you don't see the dye then it is time to get the sniffer out.
1955moose
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The beeper/sniffer that Ac shops have is the way, as Stamp stated. You might be able to borrow one. I wouldn't change all the parts without knowing what's broke, that's just lazy mechanics. Not to mention what if you do all that and find out it was something else! Take the time have someone find the problem, have them evacuate system then you fix. After that you throw back in pag oil, and appropriate amt freon.
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Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Once they come to after seeing the cost of the rear line set they will take a different line of action.
Last time I looked one up it was just under $500 for two pipes. And that was about 2 years ago. Probably no longer in stock.
Last time I looked one up it was just under $500 for two pipes. And that was about 2 years ago. Probably no longer in stock.
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razrback
Full Access Members
I replaced everything "under" the hood on my 2003 about 4 years ago. Did not change out evaps or line to rear unit, but I did flush. I don't remember exact cost, but somewhere around 1000. Compressor was about 40-45% of cost. Used named brands die parts. Not to difficult, biggest challenge was getting the compressor bolted on. Mine is 2wd, 4.6.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Cjennjr if you take your ac to anyone that is going to evacuate the system, Please tell them you have used stopleak. If you don't it plugs up their very expensive machine which they should then charge you to fix.
Well, I filled the system with the dye colored freon, purchased a u/v flashlight, and looked for leaks. I have spots all around the compressor, so i'm thinking I have a compressor leak. No leaks around the evap and condensor. I heard it is difficult to remove the compressor. Anyone with experience on how long this may take? I have a 5.4L 2 wheel drive.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Look at the FJC AC Flush solvent 2128 description. This is what we use on the students vehicles - only thing it doesn't state cleaning ac stop leak from the components & I don't know if any of the solvents will clean that out. If you can't find one that does you are rolling the dice on new components.
If the spots are around where the hoses connect the o-rings are bad, front of compressor would be the shaft seal, around one spot on the back or side is the safety valve.
If the spots are around where the hoses connect the o-rings are bad, front of compressor would be the shaft seal, around one spot on the back or side is the safety valve.
Well, I just checked under the truck again, and the a/c clutch is FULL of the dye along with splatters above the compressor and on the side. I did not see spots around the o-rings. I guess I have no choice but to replace the compressor.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Yep, go with a new compressor not a rebuilt one. Also make sure you add enough oil to the compressor and spin it a few times before installation.
Do i need to replace other components? Manufacturers recommend i replace the condensor since flushing it will not remove contaminants, and I haven't had a compressor
failure - just usage of a lot of stop leak. I'm looking at around $500 for a complete overhaul...
failure - just usage of a lot of stop leak. I'm looking at around $500 for a complete overhaul...
stamp11127
Full Access Members
New compressor, accumulator, orifice tube and condenser. Clean the snot out of the lines and the evap. If the evap wasn't so hard to replace I'd swap that out also. Why so much - use of the stop leak.
If you have rear air you need to clean/flush that also. Get at minimum 1 gallon of the flush and flush in both directions.
If you have rear air you need to clean/flush that also. Get at minimum 1 gallon of the flush and flush in both directions.
Luckily I don't have rear air. I may take the risk and just replace the compressor along with the orifice tube since the compressor is pretty cheap (under $200). My Expy itself is only worth $600 trade in, and a new a/c overhaul is worth the total price of the truck...
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Change the compressor, then also change the accumulator. Not worth rolling the dice on that.
Just went to Rock Auto online and they have the COMPLETE system overhaul for only $220!!! That includes compressor, oil, dryer, accumulator, condenser, and O-rings. I know I have
to get system evacuated before disassembly, and also get it vacuumed out again before adding new Freon. I might have to jump on this...
to get system evacuated before disassembly, and also get it vacuumed out again before adding new Freon. I might have to jump on this...
Trainmaster
Old School Member
Make sure it's not Chinese, or you'll be wasting your time, money and good Freon. If you have the choice, pay a bit more for real stuff and you won't be sorry.
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