Replacement brake pads

[Yupster Dog]

Does anyone know where there is a comparison between OEM and ANY aftermarket pads and/or rotors? I never tow a trailer but I drive my 2017 Expi like a sports car and I would like to find something with more stopping power without upgrading the calipers.

Any "upgrade" would require caliper change like a 6 piston system.

The OEM is more than enough stopping power for just the truck. (if you were towing in the mountains you might consider it) and the only hills I remember in Florida are the overpasses.

There are usually three different pads
1 the softest and cheapest but generate a lot of brake dust
2 semi-metallic (mid-grade) little harder pad and little less brake dust
3 ceramic (usually most expensive and the hardest pad.

If you driving like a bat out of hell and then stomping the brakes everywhere i suggest the softest and cheapest pads. just for the fact of generating the least amount of heat. you will use up faster but at least you have less chance of warping rotors and overheating the calipers.

 

[lbv150]

I use only OEM parts. Never an issue. The trucks were engineered with them.

 

[1exped]

If you can get these pads, they are pretty good: https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/brakes/motorcraft-super-duty-pads.html

I got them for my Explorer, very happy. They are better than the last set of regular Ford Pads.

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I use only OEM parts. Never an issue. The trucks were engineered with them.

(1) The replacement OEM parts are rarely ever the same parts as the ones that came on the vehicle, so in most cases the truck wasn't engineered with them.
(2) There are plenty of OEM parts that are simply garbage, so it makes little sense to keep using them simply because they're OEM. The ties rods on the old Crown Vics come to mind. Those were garbage and prone to an early death. For the 3rd gen Expeditions, the rear shocks come to mind. Window motors/regulators and blend door actuators are prone to an early death on all Fords. If there's something better out there, it doesn't make any sense to use OEM just because it says "Motorcraft" on the box.

 

[lbv150]

(1) The replacement OEM parts are rarely ever the same parts as the ones that came on the vehicle, so in most cases the truck wasn't engineered with them.
(2) There are plenty of OEM parts that are simply garbage, so it makes little sense to keep using them simply because they're OEM. The ties rods on the old Crown Vics come to mind. Those were garbage and prone to an early death. For the 3rd gen Expeditions, the rear shocks come to mind. Window motors/regulators and blend door actuators are prone to an early death on all Fords. If there's something better out there, it doesn't make any sense to use OEM just because it says "Motorcraft" on the box.

Nah not for me, anything we own from construction equipment to my '16 Expy...only oem parts. Anything I have to repair even the kitchen faucet gets OEM. Only if a part is no longer available will I buy the highest quality aftermarket replacement. My brother in law on the other hand has a fleet of what I like to call Napalacs...his Caddies all have Napa parts. Now he is cheeping out his BMW with Napa parts...

 

[07navi]

I have good luck with aftermarket parts, when I think of OEM parts I picture paying way too much for what they are. Like man-up said; just because it's oem it doesn't necessarily make it any better.

Getting back to the brake pads; just because the factory puts ceramic pads in everything doesn't make them better. Better for who? You couldn't pay me to run those things.

 

[1970Maverick]

Any "upgrade" would require caliper change like a 6 piston system.

The OEM is more than enough stopping power for just the truck. (if you were towing in the mountains you might consider it) and the only hills I remember in Florida are the overpasses.

There are usually three different pads
1 the softest and cheapest but generate a lot of brake dust
2 semi-metallic (mid-grade) little harder pad and little less brake dust
3 ceramic (usually most expensive and the hardest pad.

If you driving like a bat out of hell and then stomping the brakes everywhere i suggest the softest and cheapest pads. just for the fact of generating the least amount of heat. you will use up faster but at least you have less chance of warping rotors and overheating the calipers.

Please educate me about soft pads, what do you mean by soft?

 

[07navi]

Please educate me about soft pads, what do you mean by soft?

Metallic, not semi. Basically metal with a binding material............stops fastest

They don't generate much dust at all but I don't do a lot of heavy braking.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Please educate me about soft pads, what do you mean by soft?

Usually the cheapest no matter what brand you buy is the softest pad.
Organic brake pads (also known as NAO, or “non-asbestos organic”) are composed of various materials—like glass, fiber, rubber, carbon and Kevlar—mixed with binding resins that hold them together.

Semi-metallic adds a percentage of metal into that mix.

I'm guessing ceramic is self explanatory

The harder the pad the more heat generated when you apply the brakes. That is why if you drive hard on the gas hard on the brake the softest pad will generate the least heat. But it will need to be changed more often and it will create the most brake dust on wheels.

There is rotors with slots or holes in them some come in kits with the pads.(I have never used) But that is NOT A UPGRADE you will have the same as stock equipment stopping power it just helps disburse the heat better.

Please educaute me more about why you think you need upgraded brakes?

 

[RichardH]

My .02 cents based on Yupster's comment.

When I had 2 Porsche 928's, I called a supplier to get upgraded rotors, brakes and pads. He simply asked me if I can lock up the brakes or if there was any fade. I told him no. He said you're fine, you don't need an upgrade - I was not tracking these. This is an 87 and 85 and had a soccer mom pull in front and slam on brakes. I slammed on the brakes and never seen so much smoke from my front wheels locking up. No flat spots to mention. But excellent front/rear bias.

I think the original brake setup is GTG for the expedition. Below is with stock calipers and ceramic pads:

For reference, on some remote roads with no other traffic I have tried: emergency braking (excellent) in rain (ABS worked fine), acceleration in rain/snow and of course LSD kicked in and rear kicked out a little bit to the right, even tried a power slide to see if I'm in an icy/snowy area how the truck handles. Steering response is sort of slow but I was able to correct and go the direction I wanted.

 

[07navi]

I never had drilled or slotted rotors but I can't see why they do anything when there is less surface area on them to grab. Maybe the edges of the hole or slots "dig in" but why not just sandblast them? If that's the case it's just a tradeoff for eating away at the pads and wearing out sooner. It sounds like another another aftermarket gimmick to me to get your money. I will surely never buy them.
Also; I guess Yupster is right about the softest pads, I forgot about those "organic" pads where they throw a bunch of binders together and call them econo pads. As for more dust from semi-metallic; I used them for 8 years on my last truck and never saw any brake dust but I'm not a heavy continuous braker and only tow my snowmobile.

 

[1970Maverick]

Usually the cheapest no matter what brand you buy is the softest pad.
Organic brake pads (also known as NAO, or “non-asbestos organic”) are composed of various materials—like glass, fiber, rubber, carbon and Kevlar—mixed with binding resins that hold them together.

Semi-metallic adds a percentage of metal into that mix.

I'm guessing ceramic is self explanatory

The harder the pad the more heat generated when you apply the brakes. That is why if you drive hard on the gas hard on the brake the softest pad will generate the least heat. But it will need to be changed more often and it will create the most brake dust on wheels.

There is rotors with slots or holes in them some come in kits with the pads.(I have never used) But that is NOT A UPGRADE you will have the same as stock equipment stopping power it just helps disburse the heat better.

Please educaute me more about why you think you need upgraded brakes?

I bought my 2017 Expi new and have 38,000mi on it now. The brakes just don't feel like they have the same stopping power as when they were newer. Maybe upgrading was the wrong term to use. I don't mind changing pads more frequently so I'll check out the organic and metallic pads. Besides the pads I'm about due for new tires so I hope to see a noticeable difference when they both get done.

 

[Yupster Dog]

I bought my 2017 Expi new and have 38,000mi on it now. The brakes just don't feel like they have the same stopping power as when they were newer. Maybe upgrading was the wrong term to use. I don't mind changing pads more frequently so I'll check out the organic and metallic pads. Besides the pads I'm about due for new tires so I hope to see a noticeable difference when they both get done.

Are you having problems like This member? Check out this thread.

https://www.expeditionforum.com/thr...otors-brake-pedal-sinking-to-floor-now.44648/

 

[OGBobbyJohnson]

I have the powerstop and drilled and slotted on the front on my 17 EL. I put them on at 59k when i bought the truck and now at 120k. The drilled and slotted help cool faster so the rotor doesnt warp and have a shutter. Key is if you hard stop, dont stay hard on the brake. slight roll a little so as to not create a hotspot in one place. I had put a set on my 04 and got almost 70k out of them before i sold the truck. I jackrabbit start and hard stop quite a bit. My rear need to be replaced now that i have been towing my RV for the last year and those will be upgraded as well. Ceramic all the way.

 

[07navi]

I have the powerstop and drilled and slotted on the front on my 17 EL. I put them on at 59k when i bought the truck and now at 120k. The drilled and slotted help cool faster so the rotor doesnt warp and have a shutter. Key is if you hard stop, dont stay hard on the brake. slight roll a little so as to not create a hotspot in one place. I had put a set on my 04 and got almost 70k out of them before i sold the truck. I jackrabbit start and hard stop quite a bit. My rear need to be replaced now that i have been towing my RV for the last year and those will be upgraded as well. Ceramic all the way.

Why don't you just get metallic with stock rotors so you don't have to worry about all that warping, shuttering, cooling, rolling a bit, etc etc ., plus it would stop better.

 

[Yupster Dog]

Key is if you hard stop, dont stay hard on the brake. slight roll a little so as to not create a hotspot in one place.

That is good advice no matter what brakes you have. Even if you hard stop to a complete stop let off brakes and roll a little.

Kind of like 2020 we came to a complete stop and we need to roll a little before hitting the gas again.