Spark Plug Change on 3V motor

[Stoned06]

So I had a misfire on cylinder #8 and decided to just replace that plug and coil pack. I finally got around to it today, and what a PITA. It would have to be #8 back behind and under fuel lines, connections etc. I knew I was in for a little work beforehand and bought a swivel for the ratchet, but it was still fairly difficult.
BUT, the worst part was not getting the coil pack screw off....it was removing the plug!! I have heard the plugs are difficult to remove due to corrosion with the heads, but that is usually in higher mileage vehicles. My Expy only has 52K on it, and the plug was nearly frozen. I was afraid I was going to snap the ceramic off, but thankfully it held up. I had to loosen it a few ticks of the ratchet, then tighten it, then loosen/tighten, etc until it was finally free enough to fully remove. Once removed, I saw that the plug tip was pretty worn. The tips are pretty small to begin with, but mine was almost gone.
I am going to at least remove the other 7 plugs to break them loose from the head, but if I am going to do that, I may as well just replace them.
So my advice to everyone else with the 3V heads, check you plugs and remove them occasionally to keep them from corroding to the head.

 

[Stoned06]

Here are 2 pics of the tip.

 

[ELVATO]

Yea, seems like the problem that affects the F150s. You were lucky you didn't snap the plug (which happens a lot.) Granted, they do make a tool specifically for removing the snapped piece, but it would have been an extra hassle.

There is a specific procedure to follow when removing plug from a 3V 5.4L. Hah, and to think that these things are supposed to go for 100k miles.

 

[Stoned06]

Do you happen to know the procedure to remove them? I really can't afford to break any of them when I change the rest out.

 

[ELVATO]

Here's one thread: http://www.f150online.com/forums/20...s-heres-how.html?highlight=spark+plug+removal

Lemme see if I can find the actual TSB.

 

[seeker]

I have always used anti seize on plug threads for thirty years. Never had a problem. I was told that i was asking for trouble with my 2002 5.4 motor but i replaced the plugs at 75,000 miles and have 100k now. I realize that ford has had some problems with plugs blowing out and stripping threads in the motor, but at this time i have not had a problem with #4 and #8 plugs after the cops failed and i replaced the plugs as well. This has worked for me but attempt it at your own risk.

 

[Stoned06]

Yeah, the 2002 2V heads had issues with plugs blowing out (esp. with the Lightning engine). They fixed that by changing to 8 thread heads from 4 thread ones in early 2003. All was OK until the 3V head came out in 2004 for the new F150, and 2005 in the Expy.
It looks as if I will be buying the Lisle tool for removing broken plugs before I proceed replacing the other 7.

 

[ELVATO]

The TSB is post 21 of this thread.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/2004-2008-f-150/251668-ford-spark-plug-tool.html

 

[Stoned06]

Thanks Elvato. I wonder how long before Ford/Motorcraft comes out with the one-piece plugs like the Champion ones.

 

[dgray69]

plugs

I had a problem with #4 plug, blew out twice on me, busted coil pack both times, finaly had shop helicoil it, so far thats the only one ive had probs with,had all of them pulled and locktited in when i did tune up, no problems since, i ended up putting splitfire plugs in, much better

 

[bnvus]

Good Info. As I am going to change mine in the spring. I will say this though. I have 120K on my 05 and it is holding in there like a champ. This has been an EXTREMELY good truck. Much better than my old 2003.

 

[Stoned06]

I was watching "Truck U" on Speed channel and they mentioned a replacement plug from Brisk that utilizes a one-piece plug design for Ford 3V motors that won't break. Here is the link.
http://www.briskracing.com/product.php?productid=57&cat=0&page=1

 

[saltymullet]

i just did mine and it wasnt to bad. i might credit using seafoam for three tanks in a row to clean off the carbon build up or maybe it was the pb blaster i soaked them with either way. just be careful they tend to scream on the way out

 

[Never_Evil]

Platinum plugs like yours do not have a large electrode like traditional copper core plugs, yours look fairly decent for their age. The gap on them looks a little bigger than .054" One trick you can do when replacing plugs on a 2v version is removing the fuel rail. Use the schrader valve to relieve pressure in the fuel rails, unbolt the 4 mounting points and gently lift up to separate the rail and injectors from the intake. Use a vacuum or compressed air to remove debris from the spark plug hole then squirt a small amount of PB blaster into the hole. Get a higher quality spark plug socket so it doesn't round off the plug or break the ceramic. U-joints will help in achieving the correct spark plug angle in removing them. Remove them slowly to allow the PB blaster to help lubricate the threads as you take them out. The new ones will need anti-seize put on the threads, do not skip that step. If you do not use anti-seize, the steel spark plug will corrode to the aluminum head and you will destroy threads on the next plug change. After all old plugs are out and new ones in, use some dielectric grease on the COPs to ensure full spark transfer through conductivity and not through arching. Then use either Petroleum jelly or dielectric grease around the O rings of the fuel injectors to help them pop back into the intake manifold.