Spark plug change time.

[paintbalplaya02]

I'm debating changing the plugs in my 06 expy with the 5.4, its just about to roll over 100k and is starting to run a little rough. No codes yet, but im trying to be proactive here and while the weather is nice i want to get some things out of the way.

Question is, should i worry about changing them now? And if I do, what should i expect and or do to reduce any problems? I have read the TSB and all the horror stories about breaking plugs and such. Im also debating on buying the lisle tool to extract the broken ones if and when i break one. Anyone had any success?

 

[Gruz7]

Bought myself the motorcraft plugs and had the dealer do mine $300 plus the $80 or so for the plugs... My opinion so much easier than removing the broken ones and pulling things apart just to get to the plugs on the passanger side


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[GAINMOB]

100K maintenance is due and plugs need to be changed...I wouldn't wait until a code comes due to the fact that by the time u do get a code...more than one thing can/may be wrong by that time...a good vehicle will have PREVENTIVE maintenance done...that's how u keep and extend the life of any vehicle and that's how u know that ur vehicle will be good to u...by being good to it...

as stated above...once they get stuck...it may take u a day or 2 or more to get them out and that's due to a couple of reasons and one of them is not changing them...I got mine changed at 97K and it took the dealership 1.5 days cuz 1 broke off in the engine...u have an 06 3V so they should be easier to take out...still a chance...depends on ur ability under the hood

 

[Habbibie]

Well mine came out without a hitch (05 3V) they had 120k on them but non broke during removal so chances are 50/50 you'll just end up having an hour of work instead of a week. I didn't use any lubricants just a ratchet, an extension and a socket.

Best of luck

 

[steelnewfie]

Did mine at 150K miles. None broke amazingly but I had problems with carbon deposits and buildup post swap. After proper cleaning of the threads in the heads with a wire brush, and a tank of seafoam and a tank of fuel injector treatment (with regaine esters) she was good. If I had my time back I would have run the seafoam through the tank BEFORE I did the swap. Good luck!

 

[Lostneye]

If you are planning on doing this yourself I would plan on buying the plug removal tool or at least have a way to get one/plan for the downtime.

I would replace the COP boots/connectors when you do the plugs as well.

 

[snellemin]

I just changed mine at 146K. None broke. Used carb cleaner, seafoam and about 5 hours to do it myself. Used E3 plugs that I bought 3 years ago. I have no clue how long these will last, based on what I've read on the net. Also swapped out the old COP's with MSD COP's, just because Autozone brand would be way more expensive.
Best MPG that I get is around 23 on the highway. Wife still manages 10.8MPG average per gas tank.

 

[Habbibie]

Where did u order the MSD coils from?

 

[snellemin]

Where did u order the MSD coils from?

I got them through Amazon.

 

[Lostneye]

No real advantage is changing COPs that are working fine. A set of boots and connectors is $30-35 for 8.

 

[Slayor]

Spark plug change?

I am new to the group so please bear with the questions. My expedition has 152K on it and is getting 15 MPG. I am getting ready to take it to the west coast from St. Louis this fall and was wondering if I should change the spark plugs? It starts very well and runs great. At 15 miles to the gallon it seems to be running fine. I just want it to be ready.

Also if there is any additional items to check please let me know.

 

[GAINMOB]

If they weren't changed at the 100k maintenance I would...also...buy a case or a few gallon size of Lucas gas treatment...it will increase ur mpg and u will see the increase...I also use their oil treatment as well...engine ran smooth after the 1st use

Mr. 10K

 

[Skauber]

When I did my plugs, I bought the Lisle extractor tool kit just to have it handy. Didn't need it, but I can assure you that Murphy would have broken most my plugs if I did NOT buy that kit and have it handy

 

[steelnewfie]

Agree w Watts re fuel treatment. Lots of carbon buildup on the threads of the head. I've used seafoam and another brand with Poly ethel esters or whatever those new fangled cleaning agents are. Do it before and after your plug change. Make sure you clean the head threads with a wire brush. Use motorcraft plugs and coils if you replace those as well. At minimum do the boots/spring in each coil.

 

[Gumbyalso]

Spark plug change on 2011 Expedition

I just changed the plugs on my 2011 Expedition yesterday at 105K - which is the change interval in the owners manual. I used the original equipment Motorcraft SP-509s. Changing plugs on a 2011 is not the nightmare you read about on some of the other years. The 2011 has single piece plugs and you don't have to remove anything but the COPs themselves to get at them. There is literally nothing in the way of the COPs - not even the air intake ducts. The plugs came out easily and I didn't use any chemicals to loosen them. I have the Ford shop manual. It calls for 106 in/lbs on the plugs. I didn't use-seize because it seems unnecessary with single piece plugs and only 106 in/lb. I only used a little dialectic grease on the COP boot per the shop manual. I would have been done fairly quickly but I noticed a misfire when I was done. Code reader told me it was #8 cylinder. I pulled the plug and saw that it had a hairline crack. Another trip to the parts store for a replacement plug and I was good to go. It was actually easier to change these plugs than it is on my engines with coil packs. You can reach all of them. I recommend you do blow out the plug holes before removing the plugs. There is likely to be a lot of dirt and sand in there. I also have a 2000 Expedition with 277K I've had since new. I have paid the dealer to change those plugs twice now. I provide the plugs. There is just too much in the way of those COPs on the 2000, like the fuel rails. I still have the original COPs on the 2000. Not sure why you would change them if you don't have an indication of a problem.

 

[cypher0807]

Spark plug change on 2011 Expedition

I just changed the plugs on my 2011 Expedition yesterday at 105K - which is the change interval in the owners manual. I used the original equipment Motorcraft SP-509s. Changing plugs on a 2011 is not the nightmare you read about on some of the other years. The 2011 has single piece plugs and you don't have to remove anything but the COPs themselves to get at them. There is literally nothing in the way of the COPs - not even the air intake ducts. The plugs came out easily and I didn't use any chemicals to loosen them. I have the Ford shop manual. It calls for 106 in/lbs on the plugs. I didn't use-seize because it seems unnecessary with single piece plugs and only 106 in/lb. I only used a little dialectic grease on the COP boot per the shop manual. I would have been done fairly quickly but I noticed a misfire when I was done. Code reader told me it was #8 cylinder. I pulled the plug and saw that it had a hairline crack. Another trip to the parts store for a replacement plug and I was good to go. It was actually easier to change these plugs than it is on my engines with coil packs. You can reach all of them. I recommend you do blow out the plug holes before removing the plugs. There is likely to be a lot of dirt and sand in there. I also have a 2000 Expedition with 277K I've had since new. I have paid the dealer to change those plugs twice now. I provide the plugs. There is just too much in the way of those COPs on the 2000, like the fuel rails. I still have the original COPs on the 2000. Not sure why you would change them if you don't have an indication of a problem.

Good to know! I have a 2001 with 213k and I have changed the plugs and COP's twice (100k interval). I just purchased a 2011 and that was the first thing I looked for in the spark plug placement!

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Spark plug change on 2011 Expedition

I just changed the plugs on my 2011 Expedition yesterday at 105K - which is the change interval in the owners manual. I used the original equipment Motorcraft SP-509s. Changing plugs on a 2011 is not the nightmare you read about on some of the other years. The 2011 has single piece plugs and you don't have to remove anything but the COPs themselves to get at them. There is literally nothing in the way of the COPs - not even the air intake ducts. The plugs came out easily and I didn't use any chemicals to loosen them. I have the Ford shop manual. It calls for 106 in/lbs on the plugs. I didn't use-seize because it seems unnecessary with single piece plugs and only 106 in/lb. I only used a little dialectic grease on the COP boot per the shop manual. I would have been done fairly quickly but I noticed a misfire when I was done. Code reader told me it was #8 cylinder. I pulled the plug and saw that it had a hairline crack. Another trip to the parts store for a replacement plug and I was good to go. It was actually easier to change these plugs than it is on my engines with coil packs. You can reach all of them. I recommend you do blow out the plug holes before removing the plugs. There is likely to be a lot of dirt and sand in there. I also have a 2000 Expedition with 277K I've had since new. I have paid the dealer to change those plugs twice now. I provide the plugs. There is just too much in the way of those COPs on the 2000, like the fuel rails. I still have the original COPs on the 2000. Not sure why you would change them if you don't have an indication of a problem.

I found the plugs to be a fairly easy job on my '11 as well. It was a little tough to reach a couple plugs, but manageable. All plugs came out without the use of any solvents. A couple of them required significant force to remove as the threads had rusted on the plugs, but none broke. And I agree 110% about the COPs. There is no reason to change them if there is nothing actually wrong with them.