Sputters
- Thread starter hannibal
- Start date
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What exactly is it doing when it sputters? Does the entire vehicle follow, or is it just the engine? Does the lights on your electronics fade in and out when it shutters? How much does your tachometer flutter when it starts to sputter? Is there a code that's popped up? Hopefully, it turns out to be just a dirty sensor. You can buy some cleaner for it for about $8 if you look around.
thank you first, the engine service soon is on, nothing fades thank god, no but when i get to 40-50mph it sputters and idles is rough. could it be plugs to? Just mad!!
thanks for any advice taking to shop in an hour any advice
thanks for any advice taking to shop in an hour any advice
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bedrck46
would be nice to know what codes come up since you have the service light on
Go to an Advance Auto store and get the code read for free. I'm suspecting something with your EGR system from what you described. Chances are, you may have a crack in the vacuum hoses that lead to your DPFE sensor. I had to change mine out the other day (mine still had the original). If there is a crack, you might have a p0401 code. This code is for insufficient flow for the EGR system. They might say you need a DPFE sensor or valve, but check the hoses first so you aren't out more money than you have to be. If do have this code, I'll post how to check the hoses.
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bedrck46
his only problem is that he made the post an hour before he was taking it to the shop so by the time he reads the replies he will be back from the shop
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bedrck46
how many miles on the expy? when was the last time it had a tune up?
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bedrck46
would do a tune up first replace the plugs and cop's on cyl 3 and 6 since they are misfiring but would be best to change all plugs and cop's you may also want to clean out the exhaust ports in the throttle body
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bedrck46
keep us posted on how you make out
Lightnig
Full Access Members
I highly doubt you need a replacement engine, those are extremely common codes for basic maintenance issues.
The lean codes are most likely a faulty PCV valve/hose assembly. An easy and cheap fix, but have to be a bit of a contortionist to get the elbox off the back of the throttle body.
See this thread: Rough idle? P0171, P0174? Here's what you need to check first!!!
I think I paid about $45 for the PCV valve/hose assembly at my local Ford dealership parts counter. No tools required to change.
COPs and plugs are ~ $35-40 per cylinder (prices vary depending on brand and source, but figure $5 per plug and $30 per COP). Basic hand tools only reqiured.
Add it all up, and thats about $120 in parts to change the PCV valve and new plugs and COPs in the 2 offending cylinders. If you have a decent place to work, basic hand tools, and even just a modicum of mechanical ability, you should be able to change them all yourself in an afternoon. If you decided to do all 8 plugs and COPs, figure a full day for the first time you do it.
IMHO, if that mechanic is recommending a replacement engine based on those 4 codes alone, then you require a replacement mechanic instead...
The lean codes are most likely a faulty PCV valve/hose assembly. An easy and cheap fix, but have to be a bit of a contortionist to get the elbox off the back of the throttle body.
See this thread: Rough idle? P0171, P0174? Here's what you need to check first!!!
I think I paid about $45 for the PCV valve/hose assembly at my local Ford dealership parts counter. No tools required to change.
COPs and plugs are ~ $35-40 per cylinder (prices vary depending on brand and source, but figure $5 per plug and $30 per COP). Basic hand tools only reqiured.
Add it all up, and thats about $120 in parts to change the PCV valve and new plugs and COPs in the 2 offending cylinders. If you have a decent place to work, basic hand tools, and even just a modicum of mechanical ability, you should be able to change them all yourself in an afternoon. If you decided to do all 8 plugs and COPs, figure a full day for the first time you do it.
IMHO, if that mechanic is recommending a replacement engine based on those 4 codes alone, then you require a replacement mechanic instead...
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bedrck46
when you replace the plugs make sure you torque them to proper specs
Lightnig
Full Access Members
Check out the second page of the thread I posted a link to earlier. There is a picture detailing exactly where to find both ends of the PCV line.
The PCV valve itself is in middle of the top of the passenger side valve cover and the other end of the line behind the TB is just a rubber elbow. It's usually the elbow at the back that fails, it dries out due to age and cracks to little bitty pieces.
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Lightnig
Full Access Members
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bedrck46
are you saying that the EGR Valve is in the middle of the top of the valve cover or is it the PCV Valve???
Lightnig
Full Access Members
Oops, sorry, I was intending the PCV valve. This is the one that needs attention according to your codes.
The EGR line is routed to the opposite (drivers side) head, but I do not believe you need to be concerned about it at this time.
My apologies for the mix up.
The EGR line is routed to the opposite (drivers side) head, but I do not believe you need to be concerned about it at this time.
My apologies for the mix up.
