Trailing arms and track bar are gonna be made by my local VoTech

[JDMitchell]

I talked to the welding instructor at my local VoTech, and he said that if I bring in the materials (he recommended schedule 40, 2 inch round pipe) that he would be happy to weld up my track bar and trailing arms. I measured everything twice today and I got 20 3/8 for the lower trailing arms, 13 ish (the kink threw me off) for the upper trailing arms, and 47 inches for the track bar. My questions are these:

1. Can someone post the measurements for the upper trailing arms, and also the inner diameter of the bushing tubes for the track bar, upper arm and lower arm?

2. Since the trailing arms have that kink in them should I just buy a set of aftermarket upper arms (I found a seller on ebay that will ship me a set for $180)

3. Any suggestions on different pipe, I priced the schedule 40, 2 inch pipe and it is only $3.50 a foot. Is that gonna be enough strength?

4. Any suggestions on size of the bolt needed to make the lowers adjustable......... just in case I lift it later on.

 

[Jeeper]

This reply is only for the lowers. I would not recommend scheldule 40 pipe. If you want to use tubing please use DOM ( drawn over mandrel ) with a 15/16" bore that has a wall thickness no less than a 1/4", it's stronger and more structurally sound. The 15/16" inside diameter (i.d.) will allow you to use a 1"-14 tap. Your best bet is to use solid 1-3/4" 1045 bar stock cold roll. Drill and tap both ends 1"-14 threads (tpi). Search on the net for 4 link bar ends with 1"-14 threads and 2-3/8" width. The bushings that come with these will need to be drilled out to 41/64" to accomodate the 16mm oem bolts. Doing it this way you won't have to worry about welds and the VO-TECH students can get some machine time.

As far as getting the uppers for $180. I would get them.

Hope this helps...

 

[JDMitchell]

I went ahead and bought the uppers from the seller on ebay that way I can eliminate any chance of mistakes since it isn't a straight piece. Now I just need to get the lowers and track bar made. I will probably go with the 2 inch schedule 40 for the track bar and use the 15/16 i.d. DOM for the lowers.

Do the uppers and lowers need to be adjustable to get the desired effect after a lift, or is it just the lowers that need to be adjustable?

 

[Jeeper]

It depends on the amount of lift that determines when you have to change out the uppers. I know on Jeeps you can go up to 4" of lift and just change out the lowers. I am sure this could apply to the Fords as well.
Watch out for clearance issues with the 2" dia. tube for the trackbar. You may want to consider using 2" x 1" rectangle tubing with at least a 1/4" wall.
You just want to be safe with everthing you make since all of these components hold the rear in place.

If you can please stay away from the schedule 40 pipe. It's heavy pipe, but it can crack and not structurally safe. The problem I have with it is the fact you don't know what you are getting. It's pipe used for sewage.

 

[JDMitchell]

I will see what the price difference is on the 1x2 rectangle vs the DOM round tube.

 

[Jeeper]

Thank you. Just stay away from the 40. The pipe is good for none structural parts such as front bumpers.

 

[JDMitchell]

After alot of research and questions I have come to a fairly certain conclusion. I will be using 1.5 DOM with a .250 wall thickness. I will be getting a quote for about 8 feet of this, and if the local guy wants to rake me over the coals I will just order some off the internet. I am still undecided on whether I will add any adjustability to the lowers. With a 3 inch lift being the max that I plan on going, should I just make these out of solid tube? Also, if I do just have these made solid, what length should I make them, 20 3/8 or 20 1/2?

 

[Jeeper]

Would you mind if we talked over the phone. It'll be much easier than typing everything. I'll send you a pm. If you want to call you can if not that's ok too.