Upgrade OEM stereo head unit.

[athensdawgs81]

I have a new to me 2013 Expedition with the OEM navigation stereo. (Not sure if it’s Sync or what? See pic).

I would like to install something with CarPlay. I’m fine with an aftermarket option if that what it comes to, but would really like to upgrade to Sync 3. I can’t seem to find any options out there to do this for my particular model. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Town Drunk]

I am currently looking into the same with my 2013, Im just wanting to replace the head unit and keep the factory steering controls and amp etc.
I cant seem to find a way to adjust tone to my liking using just the bass/treb sliders, cant imagine why no EQ in the factory radio. I can stream via BT from my phone and Spotify using the EQ in my phone and get realy good sound, so I know the amp and speakers are capable. This led me to thinking of swapping just the head unit.

I dont know if there is anything better out there or not yet (Just started planning out this project last weekend) but ive been looking at a product from iDataLink its called the "Maestro RR2". its the interface between the vehicle and the radio. If your selection of radio suports it you can have extras like retaining the voice comands, front camera park assist, side camera lane change assist, radar detector intigration, speed controlled volume, tire pressure etc. The head unit Im looking at has the android and i phone auto features.
I dont know what the changes in features are from sync 1 to 2 to 3 etc, however I have seen where its a seperate module from radio. the maestro unit retains the sync 1 that I have currently, but to upgrade sync would require changes between new updated sync module and factory Sync1 harness in truck (Not certain if that could be done).

If you realy want some bells and whistles check out these new units with the larger displays in them, I think they call them a "Tesla style" JVC makes one with a 10" touch screen.

 

[athensdawgs81]

Yeah as I’ve been researching. I’m starting to lean more and more towards aftermarket. Of course for that I’ve been leaning heavily on crutchfield’s Information. I’m looking at one of he 10” Kenwoods with the maestro and idata link to retain all the OEM functions and gain some.

The Kenwood I’m looking at will give you engine data and Ford codes.

 

[Mark Buckner]

Hi guys,

I just had this done, (2012 EL Limited, factory radio had navigation, Sirius) so I can shed some light on these things.

I had my auto sound/alarm company do the work. Costly labor, but they have one particular tech who is an absolute craftsman, so it's worth it to me. My factory radio quit working with Siri on my iPhone after a Sync update a couple of years ago (known issue but Ford has opted not to push out a fix because it only impacts older vehicles) and after getting my wife's Bronco Sport, I really wanted Carplay.

I bought a Kenwood 577S, SiriusXM receiver and the Maestro RR2. I considered the 10" but decided I wanted to retain easy access to all the buttons/switches above/below the head unit opening. (Actually they accidentally installed the RR rather than the 2, but they are going to swap that out tomorrow.) The Maestro is AWESOME! It retains all of the functions of the steering wheel controls and backup camera, etc. I believe it also retains the factory amp/subwoofer if you have them. (I think I do.)

Since the head unit has multiple camera inputs I had them add a front camera mounted just below my winch - aftermarket Iron Bull bumper. (That's my white truck on their website). It is going to be great for steep descents off road.

Observations after about two weeks:
- 2012 OEM Backup Camera is pretty low resolution and the Kenwood screen really shows that. I bet it will be really noticeable on the 10". Tech is researching possible hi-def camera that will fit in the OEM mount in the liftgate. (I don't want another camera hanging on the license plate.
- New, higher resolution camera in front is much better, but still oversaturated, even after adjustment in the head unit
- I am not an audiophile, so sound quality is fine for me. It is noticeably better than the OEM radio, but not spectacular. Might need new speakers/amp (??)
- The tech was able to tap into the OEM dual-band GPS/Sirius antenna, so no wires or additional magnetic antenna on the roof. Internet says this can't be done, but he did it!
- Carplay is seamless and very useful. Gives me back all the Siri functions I had lost -- voice dialing, voice-dictated text messages, etc.
- I also really like using Waze. It's like having a crowdsourced radar detector!
- Some difficulty with Bluetooth connection which I want to use for short trips where I don't want to bother with plugging the phone in. Probably a programming issue, which I hope to resolve tomorrow when they have it to swap the Maestro.
- Another odd behavior they are going to look at: Unit randomly switches to the screen with tire pressure/codes/battery voltage. Gremlin.
- The plain Maestro RR seems to work fine, but I wanted the ability to adjust and update it over Bluetooth, so I am paying the extra $40
- I think the 10" Kenwoods have wireless Carplay, but I will probably buy one of the aftermarket wireless Carplay adapters.
- I could have gotten off a little cheaper with a different head unit, but I wanted built in navigation because I spend a good deal of time in areas with no cell service (mountains, etc.) so Waze, Google Maps, etc. on phone quit working in the backcountry.

Sorry this was so lengthy -- I hope it's helpful. If I can be of any further help, please let me know.

 

[athensdawgs81]

@Mark Buckner

Could you share a pic of your install?

With the 10" Kenwood (DMX1057XR) I was hoping there is enough screen adjustment up and down to center it between the buttons and the HVAC controls. The Kenwood screen is just over 7" tall and has 5 adjustment points built in. I like the Kenwood cause I prefer a knob. Pioneer has a 9" screen (DMH_WC6600NEX) where the single din brain can be mounted behind or even remotely from the screen. That screen is just over 5" tall and has a ton of mounting options (more than the Kenwood) I think would cover the hole while staying between the buttons and the HVAC.

 

[Mark Buckner]

I will be glad to post a photo. It's at the shop for the warranty tweaks today, including the RR2 swap. I will get a photo when I get it back this evening.

One other semi-gripe I should have mentioned: This unit (and most aftermarket radios, I guess) apparently uses a LCD display, meaning that if I am wearing polarized sunglasses the display is difficulty to read. I will be on the hunt for a quality pair of non-PL sunglasses, I guess!

 

[purevw]

Yeah as I’ve been researching. I’m starting to lean more and more towards aftermarket. Of course for that I’ve been leaning heavily on crutchfield’s Information. I’m looking at one of he 10” Kenwoods with the maestro and idata link to retain all the OEM functions and gain some.

The Kenwood I’m looking at will give you engine data and Ford codes.

I've had a Kenwood with a Maestro for many years on my 2011. Nothing but good news. Not only will a check engine light display the codes, you have the option to reset it from the head unit. Many non-available guages such as EGT and timing can be displayed, as well as tire pressure for all 4 tires. No more guessing. Was a super good investment for me.

 

[sonyhome]

I posted about the ATOTO head unit and amp. I doubt you'll find it on Crutchfield since they resell only name brands.

I've decided it's a better option than any major name brand. Previously I always put alpine head units to drive infinity kappa perfect speakers. This is a departure and I think with Android OSes, name brands are "has been" with their offerings. They still try to lock you in and make you pay unjustified premiums.

Also slapped a $20 backup camera that's 720p and it's plenty good once aligned.

 

[athensdawgs81]

I will be glad to post a photo. It's at the shop for the warranty tweaks today, including the RR2 swap. I will get a photo when I get it back this evening.

One other semi-gripe I should have mentioned: This unit (and most aftermarket radios, I guess) apparently uses a LCD display, meaning that if I am wearing polarized sunglasses the display is difficulty to read. I will be on the hunt for a quality pair of non-PL sunglasses, I guess!

Mark,

Did you use a Maestro RR for your install with accompanying maestro harness? I was wondering if you followed the instructions and cut the RCA connectors off and spliced in your front and rear speakers, or retained the RCA connectors and used the head unit pre-outs. I've seen both methods in my research, and heard the splice method called for by the maestro instructions caused bad sound. Thoughts?

 

[mr_dave]

Another option, if you just want (much) better sound and don't mind the existing factory head unit:

I replaced both factory amplifiers and subwoofer (with bonus wire colors / wiring diagram)

I recently replaced the relatively weak factory amplifiers and it was actually a lot easier than anticipated! All of the wires (documented below) were very straightforward and it was not difficult to integrate aftermarket amps in the stock locations. I also replaced the 4 door speakers while I...

www.expeditionforum.com

 

[athensdawgs81]

Another option, if you just want (much) better sound and don't mind the existing factory head unit:

I replaced both factory amplifiers and subwoofer (with bonus wire colors / wiring diagram)

I recently replaced the relatively weak factory amplifiers and it was actually a lot easier than anticipated! All of the wires (documented below) were very straightforward and it was not difficult to integrate aftermarket amps in the stock locations. I also replaced the 4 door speakers while I...

www.expeditionforum.com

I thought about that, but I hate the factory unit with every fiber of my being. It doesn't even display artist/title from Bluetooth. Even in 2013 that was a common thing. Just awful! Thanks for posting the pic though. I haven't installed my system yet and didn't realize there was so room back there. I may eventually replace the factory speakers.

 

[mr_dave]

I thought about that, but I hate the factory unit with every fiber of my being. It doesn't even display artist/title from Bluetooth. Even in 2013 that was a common thing. Just awful! Thanks for posting the pic though. I haven't installed my system yet and didn't realize there was so room back there. I may eventually replace the factory speakers.

Yeah I hear ya, I didn't feel like dealing with the hassle or expense of replacing the HU, especially with all of the existing integrations (steering wheel, rear seat entertainment, etc). For me it's "good enough."

The factory amps and door speakers though, are pretty weak. If you go through the expense of replacing the HU you're only going to be able to get marginally better sound out of the factory amps/speakers. Might as well replace everything at that point to make it worthwhile.

After replacing the amps and door speakers I now have the sound I wanted, much more clarity and volume. But yes, the ancient HU is less than desirable.

 

[athensdawgs81]

Yeah I hear ya, I didn't feel like dealing with the hassle or expense of replacing the HU, especially with all of the existing integrations (steering wheel, rear seat entertainment, etc). For me it's "good enough."

The factory amps and door speakers though, are pretty weak. If you go through the expense of replacing the HU you're only going to be able to get marginally better sound out of the factory amps/speakers. Might as well replace everything at that point to make it worthwhile.

After replacing the amps and door speakers I now have the sound I wanted, much more clarity and volume. But yes, the ancient HU is less than desirable.

Did you use the pre-amp inputs on your new sub amp, or just the OEM inputs for the factory sub amp on the new one?

 

[mr_dave]

Did you use the pre-amp inputs on your new sub amp, or just the OEM inputs for the factory sub amp on the new one?

I'm not sure what you mean by pre amp vs OEM inputs. However, the only signal available is low-level from the factory head unit, so that's what I used and it works very well.

Also, the factory low-level signals were actually twisted pairs and shielded, which was a very nice surprise.

 

[athensdawgs81]

Question below from your post.

Rear subwoofer amplifier:
- brown/red +12v - Did you use this to power your aftermarket amp? Doesn't seem like it would be enough to power aftermarket equipment.
- black/blue chassis ground
- purple/red +6v switched - is this a power on signal? Does it come from the head unit or radio control module? I would probably convert this to a +12v power on signal from my aftermarket head unit for my application.
- purple/green low-level sub signal (+)
- green/white low-level sub signal (-) - did you just attach an RCA adaptor to these?

 

[mr_dave]

- brown/red +12v - Did you use this to power your aftermarket amp? Doesn't seem like it would be enough to power aftermarket equipment.

It's (I believe) a 10AWG copper wire, which is definitely enough for the small, efficient Kicker amp I used.

- purple/red +6v switched - is this a power on signal? Does it come from the head unit or radio control module? I would probably convert this to a +12v power on signal from my aftermarket head unit for my application.

I used it as the remote turn-on (for now) and it works with the Kicker amps, but it is not ideal. Unfortunately it does not turn on and off with the HU. It turns on and off with the ignition switch. Next time I'm bored I'll probably try to find an actual HU on/off wire, if it exists.

- green/white low-level sub signal (-) - did you just attach an RCA adaptor to these?

Yes, I cut an spliced an RCA cable into those.

 

[athensdawgs81]

@mr_dave

For the door speakers, is there another OEM amp or radio control module in the dash for them, or are they fed straight from the back of the OEM HU?

 

[mr_dave]

@mr_dave

For the door speakers, is there another OEM amp or radio control module in the dash for them, or are they fed straight from the back of the OEM HU?

There's a small 4 channel amp directly below the head unit. The factory HU does not have any speaker-level outputs.

 

[Tonka]

I’ve been looking for a while, I have a 2013 with no amp (it’s sucks!) lol. Also, it messes up now too, it takes forever to switch sources. I put in kicker door speakers last year. I’ve been looking at the pioneer, kenwood and Jvc at Best Buy. I think I’ve finally settled on the kenwood DMX8709S. All the harnesses and kits needed to get everything to work cost about 180$. I’ll be so glad when I can get it done I’m tired of this dinosaur radio lol .