OP
OP
ZombieSoldier
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Well my buddy is gonna hook it up to his scanner today and let me know what it is. He's a tech at a stealership.
Weird starting issue
- Thread starter ZombieSoldier
- Start date
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GAINMOB
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You da man!!!
OP
OP
ZombieSoldier
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Ok so my code that was triggereed (can't remember actual code number) but was number 8 cylinder misfire detected. Rob used this scanner called torq. Really cool it was the scanner it's self and an app on his phone that he had to download on his phone. Pretty awesome! I want it!
Anyways $27.42 for a spark plug from the dealership with tax... Awaiting for a coil to show up tomorrow which was another $76.92 uggh
Anyways $27.42 for a spark plug from the dealership with tax... Awaiting for a coil to show up tomorrow which was another $76.92 uggh
GAINMOB
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lucky you...you dont have to F*** with the gas tank...
OP
OP
ZombieSoldier
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Haha I'm sure my day will come. So as soon as the coil comes in I'm a change that sum-a-bish and see if it cures the problems.
limited4x4expy
Member
did you ever get that p0453 before you changed your fuel pump? Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0453 indicates that Self-Test has detected a fuel tank pressure sensor (FTP) circuit input above the maximum limit.
Possible causes:
- FTP open.
- FTP short to VREF or VPWR.
- VREF shorted to VPWR.
- SIG RTN open.
- Damaged FTP sensor.
- Damaged PCM.
The FTP is located on top of the fuel tank. To replace it, the the Ford Manual states as follows:
1. Remove the fuel tank.
CAUTION: The fuel tank pressure sensor must be disengaged from the fuel tank before it can be removed. Failure to do so can cause damage to the fuel tank pressure sensor or the fuel tank.
2. Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor.
- Disconnect the electrical connector.
- Press down and rotate the fuel tank pressure sensor counterclockwise and remove it from the fuel tank.
Possible causes:
- FTP open.
- FTP short to VREF or VPWR.
- VREF shorted to VPWR.
- SIG RTN open.
- Damaged FTP sensor.
- Damaged PCM.
The FTP is located on top of the fuel tank. To replace it, the the Ford Manual states as follows:
1. Remove the fuel tank.
CAUTION: The fuel tank pressure sensor must be disengaged from the fuel tank before it can be removed. Failure to do so can cause damage to the fuel tank pressure sensor or the fuel tank.
2. Remove the fuel tank pressure sensor.
- Disconnect the electrical connector.
- Press down and rotate the fuel tank pressure sensor counterclockwise and remove it from the fuel tank.
limited4x4expy
Member
oops nevermind, l didnt read both pages, you know this already
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
i didnt have this before the install...would the fuel reset button do anything? yo my knowledge we just started undoing stuff...new fuel pump...hate to drop the tank again...any pic of the FTP? i remember the 2 lines to the tank and then the pump...fuel lines...2 connectors...and the hoses...2 lines at the rear of the tank...
so what can happen if i wait on this...
OP
OP
ZombieSoldier
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So after reading the issues with the spark plugs, I am going to replace the coil before going home, then I will worry about replacing the plug..
Funny thing, I was sitting here thinking about when this issue started and it was when I was half way through a tank of fuel with the Lucas fuel additive dumped into it... Hmmm
Funny thing, I was sitting here thinking about when this issue started and it was when I was half way through a tank of fuel with the Lucas fuel additive dumped into it... Hmmm
OP
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ZombieSoldier
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Ok more thinking.... It actually developed when I replaced the air filter. So I went out and looked at this. Think I figured something out here. The air filter goes on behind this little trap door on the intake plenum. That door seems very loose and doesn't seal well.
Engines need a certain amount of vacuum in order for it to start. I am wondering if this door is causing a small enough leak of vacuum that it is giving me this starting issue.
On another note. When I took the filter out, the side of that box that is post filter is COVERED in dust and grime. I think these oem filter boxes don't seal well, similar to the intakes on the 7.3 powerstrokes. Guess I better get cracking on building a new intake for it.... Ugggh
Engines need a certain amount of vacuum in order for it to start. I am wondering if this door is causing a small enough leak of vacuum that it is giving me this starting issue.
On another note. When I took the filter out, the side of that box that is post filter is COVERED in dust and grime. I think these oem filter boxes don't seal well, similar to the intakes on the 7.3 powerstrokes. Guess I better get cracking on building a new intake for it.... Ugggh
Last edited:
OP
OP
ZombieSoldier
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so check it out.. i replaced all the coils with these
http://www.am-autoparts.com/2005/Ford/Expedition/IgnitionCoil/AM-29162985/362586.html
and the problem is cured. not a single starting problem since!
http://www.am-autoparts.com/2005/Ford/Expedition/IgnitionCoil/AM-29162985/362586.html
and the problem is cured. not a single starting problem since!
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
good deal...good find
Arshag
Member
OK, my starting problem has nothing to do with the coils. It will start right away when cold - even if it has been sitting for two days. It starts right away when hot, but if it's been sitting for more than 20 minutes, it wont start for at lest 4-5 seconds of cranking. Turing the key on and waiting does nothing. Turning the key on for a second and then off - then on again and engaging the starter does work.
There is no problem with fuel flow since I go full throttle to 5k rpm in third with not a single hesitation. Yes, I have changed the IAC, the TPS, fuel filter, cleaned the injectors and looked for stored codes. Nothing helped.
One item of note that is leading me to believe either I have a sensor drift issue or maybe I need a reflash is the fact that the neutral rev limiter the truck used to have at 4 grand is gone. I can rev the engine to valve float if I desire in neutral now. Not that I do this, but it is a weird piece of evidence.
This issue started around the 80k mile mark (now at 125k)
There is no problem with fuel flow since I go full throttle to 5k rpm in third with not a single hesitation. Yes, I have changed the IAC, the TPS, fuel filter, cleaned the injectors and looked for stored codes. Nothing helped.
One item of note that is leading me to believe either I have a sensor drift issue or maybe I need a reflash is the fact that the neutral rev limiter the truck used to have at 4 grand is gone. I can rev the engine to valve float if I desire in neutral now. Not that I do this, but it is a weird piece of evidence.
This issue started around the 80k mile mark (now at 125k)
